Discussion in 'Last Steps: Waxes, Sealants, and Coatings' started by dogma, Aug 22, 2012.
I have Zymol Glasur Glaze and Celeste Dettaglio. I think Celeste is probably comparable to Vintage. The look is insane and the beading/sheeting is some of the best ive seen.
I applied HB in October, its still going strong. I found that Reload on top of it is insanely hydrophobic. enough so that thats all i use on it now.
anyone want to buy 30oz of Wolf's nano detailer?
Does HB need a topper?
What its for is to actually repair the coating as it degrades over time. But honestly once it abades away on my car im going to do something else.
Does HB need a topper? It is personal preference, but I played around with different products like Prima Hydro, V7, CG pro detailer, even put some bfwd on a fender. Honestly it just made it better IMO. HB really never beaded to my standards, but sheeted pretty good. BUT it was never as slick as I wanted.
I found Reload was FAR more hydrophobic then the nano detailer; as well as slicker. But its honestly personal preference
On another note, I got some overspray on my car from somewhere, just the drivers fender and a portion of the hood. I decided to clay bar it with some Sonus green to see if it would clean it up. 1) it cleaned it up 2) it did not marr the paint 3) by my estimate it did not even remove any of the HB, or the reload, because it still beaded like crazy and sheeted right off like it was supposed too.
While I was underwhelmed by the nano detailer, the HB and Reload consistently impresses me.
Ill trade my 30oz of nano detailer for some more reload plus ill pay for shipping! anyone?
Like he said, its preference. It doesnt NEED it no. Ive heard some people getting varying results with HB. Mine beads and sheets SUPER well still.
I was doing a clients car one time (mobile) and i just IPAed a panel on my corolla and barely hit it with the DA that had the remnants of Hardbody on the pad. That fender is still beading and sheeting like crazy 2 months later and i didnt even really prep the area that well, lol.
I do like HB, but when i run out i will probably look into other nanos to offer to clients. For me, HB worked really well. Ive heard about others that didnt have very good luck with it. But there are a alot of variables to consider before blaming it on the product, especially prep work.
PS. V7 is amazing on top of HB. I dont think it really affects beading or adds any more protection than HB has but it restores insane slickness in between washes.
I wonder if it depends on how well you prep the paint before hand.
No matter how well I Dawned & rubbing alcoholed my paint I don't think I'd bother using Hard Body with out using Shine & Seal first.
You should probably clay before Shine Seal too.
And of course if you use products other than their nano shampoo and their nano QD the beading will start to deteriorate.
Personally the only way I would use Hard Body is as a undercoat so I couls still use whatever shampoo & QD I wanted.
I had way better results when I used shine and seal verus just the IPA wipe down........
Prep is everything. And you can use whatever soap/QD you want with HB.
I use CG soap to wash my mach 1, UWW+ or V7 as a QD and it doesnt affect the Hardbody, its nearly impossible to wash it off actually.
For sure. Ive never used Shine and Seal but i polished my Mach 1 right before application, Then did 2 wipe downs with very stout IPA. I have noticed that Hardbody really likes a freshly polished surface. But like i said earlier, i just wiped off my fender and bzzzed on a bit of HB just for shits and giggles and sure enough, its still beading and sheeting 2 months later so i think it bonded pretty well.
You've really got me wanting to try this stuff
No, IME, your shampoo choice isnt going to affect anything. You could probably wash this stuff with dawn weekly and not have an issue. In fact, i think Jesse from Wolfs used APC on Bodywrap or Hardbody once and it didnt affect it.
Ive also heard people say they clayed and it didnt even come off. Its very durable stuff, it actually resists mechanical removal via rubbing, which i think it what gives it the claimed "scratch resistance" I cant really speak on that too much. I think it does help reduce scratches alot, but not too much after the initial slickness wears off. Ill let you know after i polish it off.
Its really great protection man. My mach 1s paint is still very very smooth to the touch, no QD or anything and the paint has very little, if any, bonded contaminants.
Give it a try man.
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