Wolf's Hard Body

Does anyone have any concrete evidence of the durability of Hard Body. One reputable detailer over on facebook mentioned that he doesn't think or see it lasting longer then a traditional sealant. Now i'm on the fence between HB and OC and i want to be able to tell the customer it will last 6 months or a year etc . . . . and not be to off. Would hate to say it will last 3-4 months when it really will last a year or longer.

I've heard nothing but good things though about HB

 

I did a customers car with hardbody back in August and it is still going stong to this day. Sheets water like crazy and cleans up as easy as it did the day I applied the coating. I think it will be safe to say it will last a year.

 

I've applied HB about a MOnth and a half ago and its still looking good. I don't see much difference in it and colli 845 as far as washing it goes. The beading is not like cquartz which I expected it to be like. I'm waiting to see on the durability on it. I hope its at least six months.

 

Ive used both and i prefer HB, ill tell you why.

#1 Application process on HB is SO MUCH BETTER. I did my last paid job with Hardbody on a DA with a finishing pad...take NO product to get good coverage and if you miss a spot you can go over it (unlike opticoat, which wont stick to itself)
#2 Hardbody per application is MUCH cheaper, if you want to use OC for more than 1 application then youll need to transfer it into a different container than it came with.
#3 IME, Harbody's beading and sheeting are better and so is the look, very wet and glossy for a sealant.

Overall, its easier to use, WAY cheaper per car, layerable, and SUPER durable. OC is nice but its way to picky in the app process and its a 1 shot deal, if you mess up its polish and redo it.

Ive had Hardbody on my mach 1 since august, still beads and sheets like a champ. I applied by hand but now I also use a GG DA with a finishing pad to apply, i use a small spray mist bottle, mist the pad a couple times to prime it, then mist each panel ONCE and spread it out, bigger panels need 2-3 sprays but seriously, i think i could do 30-40 cars with 1 bottle from Phil.

Im very interested in 22PLE coating as well.

 

I believe some of your information is incorrect. #1.You can go over the panel again if you miss a spot. In fact, you can actually layer it within a month or so of the first layer going down without issue. After it cures fully ( 90 days ), then it will not adhere to itself. #2. You don't need to transfer Opti Coat to another container. I have used the same syringe for 3 cars over a 4-5 week period without an issue. Is Hard Body cheaper per application? Damn straight! But you are comparing apples to oranges. Opti Coat is a permanent coating whereas Hard Body is a sealant. Opti Coat should last the life of the paint its protecting if its applied properly. Hard Body, 2 years max. I'm not sure why you think the application for OC is too picky. The prep for both is identical. Wash, decon, wipedown, apply product. Applying OC is dead easy if you simply follow the directions. Just to clarify, I have and use Hard Body in my shop regularly as well as Opti Coat so I'm well versed in both. They are both excellent products at what they are designed for.

 

Please dont misunderstand me. I think OC is a great coating. i didnt realize it was layerable that was my mistake. But when i used OC, i tried to store the remainder in the syringe and it leaked out everywhere lol, idk why. It was in a climate controlled place too.

The possibility of streaking is just the thing thats picky, u dont get that with hardbody. Ill be very honest, ive used OC but i have more experience with HB, so im sure 911 is much more efficient at applying OC than i.

For a detailers car i think HB is the way to go because we dont need permanent coating because we enjoy detailing.

I do think opticoat is a better choice for coating wheels, exhaust parts and other things exposed to really bad road grime. But for the ease of use and cheapness per application HB takes the win for me.

Now if i was detailing a worktruck or a customer wanted something they would never have to mess with again, id go with OC, lol, i do like OC, but applying HB is so easy with a DA, im not sure if DA apllication is really a good idea with OC, i suppose u could... Lol

The scratch resistance with OC is a definite bonus, i dont think HB resists as well, that would be a good comparison test

 

"Please dont misunderstand me. I think OC is a great coating. i didnt realize it was layerable that was my mistake. But when i used OC, i tried to store the remainder in the syringe and it leaked out everywhere lol, idk why. It was in a climate controlled place too."

Did you know that Optimum had a run of bad syringes awhile back and these leaked out of the big end. You might check in with the seller or Chris at Optimum and see if you fall into that category. I also had a couple of leaking Syringes come in that way, and Optimum had no problem replacing them with new..

Also have used a lot of Opti-Coat Pro and Opti-Coat 2.0, and never had issues, streaking, anything bad. Just beautiful, clear, glossy, protected paintwork, wheels, etc.,

Appreciate all the other products that are Sealants and such; they all work great too.

Dan F

 

Jesse from Wolf's said that HB is a glass coating, but I remember reading on DW that HB is a sealant. I guess anything that will last a year or more is considered a coating (GTechniq C1).

 

WP-0NP - Nano Coating - - Wolf's Chemicals

[h=3]WP-0NP - Nano Coating - "Hard Body"

Nano coating, scratch-resistant sealant, super slick surface, amazing beading and sheeting[/h]Description Wolfs Chemicals Nano Sealant Hard Body (WP-ONP) is a new sealant and is also scratch resistant to provide long-term protection against UV damage, dirt and other harmful contaminants on all painted surfaces. Wolfs Chemicals Hard Body has a very strong chemical composition that will help prevent light scratches and swirls incurred during washing.

Durability - Up to 24 months

:shead: I think Wolfs Marketing/Description has something to do with the confusion.

 

Maybe sealant and coating means the same thing in Hungary.

 

Jesse has clarified: quote...
I get tons of emails and PM's about this subject, so I would like to clarify something about „glass coatings”. Are our „Body Wrap” and „Hard Body” coatings considered „glass Livingstone”? The answer is YES . There is a solid matter, like a glass, in the coatings that will crystallize when cured, thus forming the surface roughness which makes the paint super-hydrophobic... Just as almost every other nano coating on the market, with the difference being that we don't advertise it as a „glass coating” because we feel it's a bit misleading.

 

It does not! :yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes: :giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle:

 

For those who have used HB back in August or sooner, any updates?

 

My hardbody is still going strong. Applied around mid august, maybe third week in august.

This was a couple weeks ago, in the rain, had to snap a quick beading pic...


Untitled by ModdedMach, on Flickr

Car was daily driven from application day until 11/19/12, during that time it was washed weekly. Since then its been driven about...500ish miles.

One time i washed it with Maxisuds 2 @ 1oz per gallon which usually kills down wax pretty good- didnt even affect Hardbody lol.

Going back to nuba soon. Next correction will be a coat of Four star ultimate paint protection topped with a coat or 2 of Celeste Dettaglio V2

 

Chemical guys Maxi suds is killing wax down for you? I have never noticed that when I use it on my daily with nuba on it. As far as the hard body, looks like it is still beading strong

 

NO no no. lol MS2 at proper dilution is very wax friendly. Maintenance wise, i use 1oz per 4-5 gallons of water, very lsp friendly. But if you up the dilution to 1oz per galllon of water then it will strip down wax pretty well. Not was much as dawn but it still will.

I just used 1oz per gallon one time to see how well Hardbody held up against it and it didnt effect the nano at all. Its very detergent resistant.

And yes, hardbody beading and sheeting is still very very strong. It still is very non stick as well. 95% of the car comes clean with a foam soak and pressure rinse.

 

I thought maxi suds was a ph neutral wash?

 

Isn't this what everyone is chasing? Beading, sheeting, easy clean...then why change?

 

the never ending chase of trying different detailing products...lol

 

I believe it is, but the detergents and such in the soap at high concentration are still gonna degrade wax pretty well.

My Mach 1 is no longer daily driven, so durability isnt really an issue anymore. So i shall go with an insane looking/beading/sheeting wax now lol.

That too. I have Celeste Dettaglio and i wanna see it on freshly polished black.