Which menzerna po106ff or po85rd?

All tips are great just one suggestion, check some of the pictures on this site to compare how "good shape" your paint compare to before pictures (look here: Show and Shine - Detailing Bliss Forum) . and you can see what polish and pads there folks used to accomplish the result.
If your car is really almost swirl free, SIP is too much of cut IMO. I would go with PO106FF with orange then PO85RD with white or blue.

 

You guys using PFW with SIP? I just can't seem to get enough working time out of the SIP when I use it with PFW. It dries up on me before I can work it long enough to break it down well enough. If I use a foam pad I can get enough working time, but the PFW adds alot of muscle to SIP. I think the dry air where I'm at doesn't help, either. Humidity here stays in the single digits to low teens.

 

Whats your technique?

 

PFW, four pea sized drops of SIP, spread evenly through work area, start working at 1k rpm, bump up to 1.5k til it breaks down, then finish at 1k.

I've tried using more/less product, but it still dries up fast with the PFW.

I also always make sure that the paint is completely clean of all residues before using SIP. It seems to help prevent SIP from acting up (buffer hop, skip, etc.).

 

I used SIP with PFW last night, and got some amazing correction with just one full application. I was using the same rotary as you but adding one good sized beed the full circumfrance of the PFW pad, rather than the one or two drops. This was for a good sized 2x2 area on a door.

It did not dry up, however it did skip, and before it flashed I would just stop polishing and break out the prep-all for a wipe down. Things came out amazing for the time spent.

It can't hurt to give that approach a try. This is also on 05 Audi A6 clear, (very hard IMO, until I got the rotary that is . )

IB

 

SIP and wool do not seem to get along, like you said it dries up quick.

 

I don't recommend using an orange (LC) pad with 106. The most aggressive pad that I would use with 106 would be a white (LC) pad. Use a blue or red (LC) for the 85RD.

 

I agree with blk45. 106FF is a finishing polish with the capability to do light correction. The orange pad is for cutting/compounding. Although I have tried 106FF with the orange pad, I think you would be better off to reduce the cut in SIP by using a pad with less cut like green or white and finish with 85RD on blue, black or the new yellow. This will also give you a better finish than the 106FF/85RD route.Just my 2 cents.

 

Well i orderd some 85rd and some 5.5 black and white pads for my pc. My paint currently has no swirls but i think it could benefit alot from doing a once over with the 85rd on a black pad and see what the outcome is. It comes in tommorow so thats when im going to tackle it.

 

If your paint is currently swirl free, then 85RD on the black pad will be fine. 85RD can have quite a long play time under the right conditions so take your time and work the polish until it goes clear. The work will be worth the results. Don't forget pics. We like pics!

 

once the polish goes clear should i keep it on speed 6 on the pc or bump it down to like 5?

 

Once the polish goes clear it has broken down enough so you're done. With a pc, this could take a few minutes. Just remember with a pc, it will take longer to break the polish down than it would with rotary. Work a small area at a time, say 12x12 or slightly larger. Don't use too much product. Typically I will put 4 pea sized drops on a 5 inch pad to do say half a fender. The stuff goes a long way. If you find that isn't enough, add ONE more drop etc until you get the results you want. Remember, pics...lots of pics.

 

Thanks for the info. Still waiting for the ups guy to show up.

 

Here u go i made a thread on the final results with pics

http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/f47/06-trailblazer-ss-black-finish-polish-5253.html#post79465

Thanks for the help everyone it turned out great.