Which compound?

While KB's advice is good, he stated that he doesn't want to do the whole pad spritz thing in his first post.

 

:applause2:I use power gloss quite a bit lately, today on a infinity suv had no problem with the dusting, used it with a rotory and lc purple wool pad, had quite of rids to clear, came out real nice, finish with p 106 ff polish.. I usually spread a line about 5 inchs long on the section to work spread on a bit and run at 1500 rpms till it flashes, very nice finish..good luck with your choice.cou

 

Thanks for the tip Ken. I will try that next time. The PG has pretty much sat on the shelf since the 105 arrived though.

 

Sorry bud. Thats twice this week I've just missed . I'll try to guess what problems you might encounter in advance next time! LOL

 

Do you believe cutting at 1000-1200 RPMs accomplishes the same level of defect removal as higher RPMs. I prefer to cut at lower RPMs; however, I frequently find it necessary to machine at 1500 to 1800 RPMs to effectively level significant swirls and RIDS, especially on hard finishes. Do you find cutting at low RPMs results in more applications?

 

This is just my :2cents: but for the most part slower RPM tends to give good results with less dusting. But to be honest it comes down to personal preference, what I mean is that I personaly prefer to compound at higher speeds, so for me Menzerna Power Gloss will always dusts a significant amount. So when Power Gloss acts up for me I'll switch over to 3M UK compound and I've noticed that 3M UK compounds seems to welcome the higher RPM's. When I've used Menzerna Power Gloss at lower RPM's as 911 suggest it works quite well and it does reduce dust..but like I said for me dust dosen't really bother me.

There are hundreds of compounds out there and each one will require a technique, that's why I've stuck with Menzerna and 3M UK compounds/polish oh I've also played around with Scholl compounds/polish.

Any who, like I said just my :2cents:

Oh one last thing I forgot to mentino, is that when dealing with hard clear coat (ceramic clear coat) higher RPM and heat seems to work like a charm. I enjoy using wool pads and always try to use them when ever I can but on tough clear coats heat seems to be a catalist...now I don't know if this is just me but just things I've noticed from my past experiance. Any who, when dealing with hard clear coat (ceramic clear coats) you know your in for a heck of a detail as it will require multiple passes to completely remove difects. What I try to do is compound with a wool pad first, then if required compound again with a foam pad. When ever I use a wool pad I always follow it up with foam pads to make sure I've removed holograms I always induce when compounding with a wool pad.

 

Go for qwick kut 350 from Mark-V. Cuts fast and leaves a nice finish, contains no fillers and dusts very little compared to PG and the other compounds from 3m. Fast cut+ (euro) dusts badly and it smells like it dusts(loaded with solvents) and will give some filling as well.

Mark-V have some very nice compounds and they are very cheap compared to #105, PG and the 3M compounds. I love Phase V, UNO, Mystique and etc

Rydawg loves the 350 and he have tried many different compounds - give it a try, you will not be disapointed!

 

I only prime my pad once in the beginning.The key is to keep your pad clean. 105 is a great product once you get the hang of it. I've removed wet sanding marks by hand with 105.But like I said new version of 105 is on it's way.

 

We know to keep the pad clean. I use and love 105 and get great results from it. You linked to KB's advice, and his method utilizes spritzing the pad and continuing to polish. The OP says he doesn't wish to do that.

The "new" 105 is supposed to play nice with a DA, but are there any other changes that have been specifically stated? Even though the old 105 wasn't designed to work with DAs, a lot of people used it with great results. I don't go on to MOL, so hopefully you or someone else can answer this. I know KB has stated that it is different, and not just a label change but I don't know what is supposed to be improved. To lengthen the working time would be a step in the wrong direction as far as I'm concerned. It's short working time and great finish is what makes it stand out against other compounds.

 

As Nica said, different polished require different techniques. By slowing down the speed, I find if I work a slightly smaller area so as not to thin the polish out too much, I will get the desired results. Like you pointed out, you may have to speed things up for serious RDS, but for the most part, the slower speeds should get the job done for you. It just takes a while longer to break the polish down, much like using a PC. I find that the newer Menz polishes that are designed for ceramic finishes can be run run at a slightly higher speed with a lot less dusting. Just my experience.

 

I linked to KB's advice and others for general reading purposes.Not to say he is the king of 105.Or the know all of 105." I" say to keep the pad clean with 105 so you DON'T have to spray the pad often.Which is why the op wanted something diff. I don't work for Meg's I've just used their products for along time and appreciate them.

As for as the new 105 formulation I don't know enough to make statements just comments.

 

Also I put down beads of 105 in a couple area's on the panel i'm working on.Then pick it up with the buffer after it flashes I move to another bead and continue till it is gone.Works well for me.

 

I found this blk45 hope it helps. Off of MOL.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottwax
Mike-I know you can't release an proprietary information but can you give a basic overview of what has been changed to allow use by a DA? The original formula works pretty well via PC/UDM using an 8006 pad on harder paints but hazes softer paints. Just want to be sure I still get the same cut via rotary.

Hi Scott,

Here's what we can share, the new M105 has the same amount of cut as before with less dusting and sticking when used with a DA Polisher.

How this is done is proprietary.

Hope this helps...

 

Thanks for the info.

 

No problem. Glad I could help.