What would you follow PowerFinish PO203S with?

I"m getting ready to work on getting some scratches and what not out of the car soon.

I used SuperFinish PO106FA on the other car but not sure if that will cut the scratches out of the A4. If not and i have to use PO203S, MZ claims it to be "In most applications, it is a true one-step polish." so if i finish and the paint looks good would i then go to Sealing Wax APO60 or my sample of Dodo Purple Haze i have coming?

Or do i go
PO203S then SuperFinish PO106FA then wax?

For SIP MZ says this "If necessary on dark colors, it can be followed up with PO106 SuperFinish or PO85RD for an absolutely flawless finish." so i'm guessing that is the case here correct? Just trying to figure out if i need the 106 after the 203.


thanks:worship2:

 

If it looks good to you, just go to the wax. If it still looks hazy, or has hologramming, then follow up with a finishing polish.

 

awesome thanks!
are there examples of hologramming on the board?

i also found this write up that has the above combo (plus some)

http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/f47/2008-mercedes-benz-s600-12287.html

 

I think it goes... PO203S paired with PO85RD and then SIP with 106FA.

 

If needed. PO203S on white/green could probably finish LSP-ready, and especially on lighter/harder paints.

 

Hm ok.
I"m asking because i bought a "complete" kit from Phil with
PowerGloss S34A
PowerFinish PO203S
SuperFinish PO106FA
Sealing Wax APO60

just trying to understand when enough is enough

 

It's enough When you're happy with it

 

PO203S is great, just make sure you let the product break down fully and work it's magic. If you work it completely it should finish LSP on many/most finishes.

Good Luck and Enjoy! :thumb:

 

Power Finish will finish down LSP ready when used in conjunction with the white or green pads. If you go to an orange pad you will have to follow up with 106.

 

awesome this is exactly what i was looking for. and now i even know which pad to use

now if only my Purple Haze sample pot would show up

 

I find it depends on the color of the car, lighter cars there's no real need for it unless your OCD.

But on a darker car, you can always get a bit more gloss out of it with 106 or 85, and IMO is worth it at that point.

 

I am assuming everyone here is giving these pad/polish combinations while using a rotary. how about using the flex 3401? I heard that you would use the same combinations. how about pad size? would you guys go with using LC 8.5 inch pads?

thanks

godoman

 

Power Finish (PO203S) - (M) this is a one-step scratch remover polish is formulated for CeramiClear or other ‘Hard’ paints. It will remove 2500 grit, cut 3.0-gloss 3.5, is formulated as a quick way to polish out light flaws and amplify the paint’s gloss.

With a single step polish once you see it has just started to break-down, either clean your pad or replace it with a fresh one and then continue at the same RPM you left off at, break-down the rest of the polish, and then continue to burnish the paint surface. After a wipe-down process it can be followed with Nano Polish (PO85RD 3.01) using a black pad for lighter imperfections, or for burnishing the surface for even more depth and gloss.

While technically a final or finishing polish in the same category as PO106FA, PO203S Power Finish offers substantially more cutting power, In fact, it is just below Menzerna PO83 Super Intensive Polish in its ability to remove moderate to mild swirls, water spots, and light scratches, and then it burnishes the paint to an ultra high gloss.

Try the LC Orange pad with Menz Power Finish 203S first and if that doesn’t rectify the problem proceed to Menz Power Gloss on LC Orange foam and then clean up with Menz Power Finish on LC White foam.

PO203S finishes down LSP ready on light colours but would suggest PO85RD is needed on dark colours.

 

The car is a jet black audi. So it sounds like more steps for more depth thanks'!!