TOGWT, great article and information as always. Your experiences and write-ups are truly appreciated around the board for experienced (I would think) and newbies alike. So, let me ask you this, at what point do you walk away from the scrach implying that it is too deep, wide, etc. to effectively remove by wet-sanding? Just like with polishing, the general rule is if it catches the fingernail, then you might be able to reduce/minimize it, but not remove it completely. Where do you draw the line with wet-sanding?
Put a drop or two of Woolite® liquid in a clean bucket and fill it with clean water. (what I do is to fill a spray bottle from the solution in the bucket and use that to 'wet' the Surface
You need to keep track of the paint that 'remains' (see para on recording paint thickness on a template) Once you have removed approx 0.3 MIL it time to use a glaze and stop any more polishing PS Thank you for the kind words, glad the article is of some help
good to know this. The body shops in my area do very poor work in terms of paint quality. and they dont even wetsand, the ones that do, just use straight water. They only body shop that does excellent work in my town and that can replicate OEM orange-peel is a shop called Quality Auto Body. they mostly do Insurance repairs but they can also do custom work.
A XK150 Concours entrant (back in 2000) he had clear coat added. Back in the day (I've been detailing for fifty years) I used to colour-sand single stage paint but I don't do much pro work now, I leave that to my son. But I do try to pass on my knowledgw and experience (its much easier for my back and arms)
Thank you for all your artciles! I would love to see some pictures of your work if possible:applause:
