Rotary

Heath, you just started the new Dynabrade craze.

 

I love my flex da but i will be making the jump sometime soon...with the flex rotary can you even change the backing plate..that is really my main gripe about my da...because i really wanted to load up on the 5 1/4" 3M pads that everyone is raving about but of course.....5.5" backing plate that cant be changed on my flex!

 

Well, atleast I finally started somethin!!!

 

so you go small on the PC and 5.5" on the Flex (if you have a PC also!)

 

link to the dynabrade?

 

7 In. -8 In. Electric Rotary Buffer-WYOTOOL - Your Student Tool Store

Best price around.

 

...Although the Dynabrace craze is apparently on, and Heath has already ordered his new toy, I think I'll include my thoughts here as well. Heck, it may be useful for someone...

I'll be the only one who won't recommend a specific polisher. Why? Because I don't know your preferences. OK, even if you are a newb, you still have some idea about a theoretically ideal machine.

My theoretically ideal machine is smooth, has low noise/vibration, good power AND torque, a really practical RPM/OPM range, and MOST IMPORTANTLY, great ergonomics. Our hands are the same with 5 fingers and a certain anatomical limit. Yet machine manufacturers pushing out products which have speed dials at the back of the machine, and other idiotic features. How'd you like a car when its gear selector would be placed in its trunk?

A polisher needs to be guided, so the grip is extremely important. It needs to be tight, secure, to ensure proper maneuverability. The trigger has to move in a nicely weighted, smooth way and has to feature variable speed control. The trigger lock has to be secure, easily operable with one hand, without the need of changing grip. The speed dial has to be placed at your thumb with a horizontal (lateral) dial, because it is the most natural way anatomically to change machine speed intuitively on the fly. A vertical (longitudinal) dial can be a similarly good solution when it is placed sufficiently close to your thumb. Nice detents are important too to give some feedback about your actual speed settings. Think of them as column stalks of the machine; ideally, symmetrically placed workers - for both right- and left handed users. Until our bodies stay the same with the same anatomic properties, the machines have to adapt to us and not the other way around.

The handle is an important thing too. Basket or bail handles are the better ones as they offer more flexibility than side handles. If they are asymmetrical, watch the balance. Try it both ways to experience how does it feel when the polisher just „hangs” in your hands when doing vertical panels. A hand guard cap on the gear housing head is a good solution too.

The length of the machine is like the wheelbase of a car. Long WB offers high stability, better tracking, while a short WB (aka a more compact polisher) is more agile, maneuverable. Combine this with the golden mean of weight (philosophical middle between two extremes) and you’ll have a great machine. The ideal weight is around 2-2.5 kg/4.5-5.5 lbs, but more than 3 kgs or 6.6 lbs is considered heavy.

Vent hole placement is an often overlooked thing. The openings must be placed properly, otherwise you may block them with your hands unintentionally causing minute overheating which may lead to premature failure. The machine blows air through its head and gears, so it is important not to blow this air into your face. I’ve worked with a cheap rotary, which blew air right into my face; it was not so pleasant.

Practical RPM/OPM ranges are 500-2500 RPMs or up to 13000 OPMs. When you choose a DA machine, be sure that the pad throw is at least 4 mm. With a high OPM, this will give you surprising power, and excellent finishing ability. Finishing with a rotary is just as important so choose a machine which goes well below 1000 RPM. More than 2500 RPMs are very rarely used.

Good serviceabilty (brush change), and a long cord are further positive points.

 

wow excellent points there Bence..so have you built it yet :waiting: :waiting:

Seriously, manufactures should try to come up with something like you just described :thumb:

Thank you for sharing that, sounds very good.

 

Bence, great post. Good to see you brotha.

The dynabrade doesnt have (or come with) the loop handle but it has 3 positions to mount the side handle on the machine. RPM's are 0-3000.
Cord length is 8ft. Weight is 4.9lbs(2.2kg) but I believe D&D says they might be a little heavier than that. 9.0amp motor.

 

THX guys! :thumb:

 

Heath, the Dynabrade weighs the same as my two Black and Deckers or the Dewalt.

 

Really????

The jamestown distributers lists it at 4.9lbs!!!
http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...5&familyName=Dynabrade+Electric+Rotary+Buffer

 

To me it feels the same as my black and deckers, maybe the newer dewalts are little heavier, since I havent used a dewalt I am just guessing. I like the feel of the Dynabrade and the way it works on a vehicle, plus the weight to me is just right, not to heavy, not to light.

 

Thats good to hear. I cant wait to get mine.

 

It also is very smooth, I used D&D's when we did the black Cobra, I know you will be very
happy with the buffer.

 

:waiting:Just a heads up, according to wyotool.com, the Dynabrade is on backorder at the factory, they said they didn't know when they were going to get it in (nice of them to let me know this 2 weeks and 3 days after I placed the order, had to call to find this out).

Said f*** it, cancelled the order, and picked up a Makita from another vendor.

 

Man that sucks @$$. Talk about mental anguish!!!!!!

 

Yep, the Dynabrade is definitely not 4.9lbs. More like 7 or 8lbs. Heres my thread on it, http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/f48/new-rotary-4132.html

 

I blame Heath for this since he started the Dynabrade craze with this thread.

 

lmao. man. They were already out when I placed my order!!!! A victim of my own creation (so to speak) I blame DnD hehehe