Paint correction in winter...

Discussion in 'Car Detailing Product Discussion' started by Frankastic, Feb 19, 2014.

  1. Frankastic

    Frankastic Detail Photographer

    Hi guys

    I have found a work flow that works for me this season, and I like to see what you guys think. By all means I'm not a pro detailer, still trying to learn to make myself better. I find that in the past, I used to make a mess when correcting paint and had to rinse the car afterwards. Well giving the weather we been having in the Northeast, it's not really possible to rinse the car afterwards ( outside ). So I'm finding that If I work more carefully, I don't have to rinse afterwards.

    here what I do

    1. Wash
    2. Decon
    3. Blow wheels and paint and towel Dry*
    4. Dress tires, clean wheels
    5. Interior detail ( if requested )
    6. Tape
    7. Paint correction***
    8. Blow dust
    9. IPA
    10. LSP
    11. Glass
    * I find that if you blow dry the wheels, you'll have less rust on the rotors.
    *** I find that If I work smaller section, clean my pads every section past. There will be little to no dust.

    Hope you guys find these tips useful

    Pureshine likes this.
  2. TurboJoe

    TurboJoe DB Forum Supporter

    Thanks for sharing!

    The need to a 2nd wash is also very dependent upon your product/pad/machine choices. Some products throw off crazy amounts of dust, and some dust very little.

    From personal experience, I prefer to clean/dress the wheels and tires after correction is complete... there have been a few times when I've used canvas wheel covers instead though. Either way prevents dust from sticking to the tire dressings.

    And depending upon what LSP is used... I spend the LSP's curing time cleaning the windows, final wipedown of jambs, dressing trim, etc. This way no time is wasted, and you aren't re-doing steps twice.

    Very true, no matter which product/pad/machine is used
  3. ModdedMach

    ModdedMach Birth of a Detailer

    Another thing to consider when trying to detail cleanly is the amount of product used. Priming- SEASONING your pad fully will use a bit more polish to prime but will require less polish per section area to work because you have less polish soaking into the pad because its primed already.

    Example, with Menzerna, Megauirs, HD, Scholls, I primed the pad FULLY, and i can use 1-2 pea sized drops of polish on a 6.25" Uber pad to do an area. Not only does it cause less dust with less polish but removing the residue is MUCH easier.
  4. aquariusashu

    aquariusashu New Member

    Nice to read the interesting view and suggestion of the members. Happy to be part of this forum and hope that i would learn some new in this forum.

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