Menzerna Ceremic vs Normal

I'm about to buy the Menzerna polish but I have a simple question and because I am new, I can't really distinguish the difference beteween the Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final polish:Menzerna Intro Kit vs the ceremic types, PO83 and 106FA.

I drive a BMW and I'm sure the PO83 and 106FA is perfect for it but I also have an older 2002 Toyota Celica. My question, would the polish made for ceremic clear coats, the PO83 and 106FA work on the 2002 Toyota and also vice versa, would the Menzerma Intensive Polish and Final Polish work with the BMW?

 

All I use is Menzerna...well with the odd time 3M UK polish...but for the most part I use Menzerna and for the most part it works well with just about any vehicle...not unless you get into the sticky clear coat then that's a whole different ball game :wall:

 

So there is no difference from the PO83/106FA and the polishes in the intro kit?

 

PO83 and 106FA are designed to work with the newer harder ceramic clear coats on some vehicles such as Mercedes. The IP and Final Polish are for normal clearcoats. I use the ceramic polishes on everything without a problem. Keep the speed down until you get used to them and you'll be fine. I would add PO85RD to your arsenal as well. It will add so much to the finish regardless of which polishes you use.:thumb:

 

THANKS! exactly the answer I was looking for.

 

The ceramic menzerna's can leave marring on soft paints
Here is what I find from the menzerna range

PO87MF Final Polish (normal clear) - makes paint very wet and crystal clear - darkens the shade of dark paint colours and brightens the lighter ones
Brilliant for old school 60's and 70's paints and modern acrylics (single stage)
if you don't like dust, use 87MF instead

I use 87MF then 106 then 85RD or 87 then 85 most of the time.

PO85RD - creates incredible clarity, some wetness and good depth improvement
PO106FF - slightly more cut, gives a swimming pool like wet shine, quite dusty though

What are you worried about NICA - sticky paint is easy to solve
Parrafin oil in a spray bottle. spray the foam buffing pad with a little of it, apply a little extra polish as the paint will dry it up quick once you get to 1200 + rpm

Add more oil if needed and move a little quicker
Use wool pads for first one or two steps as they cut (or the modern term of "LEVEL") cool than foam does but they slice the paint whereas foam mills it