kevin brown method???

I used a lot of Diamond Cut over the years. It is a great "bang for the buck" compound. :headbang:

 

So kevin, is there any news on the paper yeT?

 

It works well with the PC too. I didn't think that it would, but to my surprise it does. :thumb:

On a side note, I would like to know when the paper is coming out. I know you had some technical issues at one point in time.

 

No,not yet. I apologize for it all the time, too!
The paper is worked on nightly, sometime a few minutes, sometimes a couple of hours. But I do something with it every night. I have been stuck on three diagrams lately- not the graphics but words! For these three diagrams, I just realized I need to throw them into the Word program, place them, read the surrounding text, and then add the text in the diagrams.


I certainly am no author, nor am I a graphics expert.
Hopefully it will all come together in a sensible manner and be useful to those interested in the topic.

Part of the reason for its delay is because the focus of the paper has changed.
It has shifted from being primarily about the application of M86 and M105 with the random orbital to how the random orbital works, and how to get the best results when using it.

I have not even LOOKED at the original text in weeks! Instead, I have been adding to the beginning of the paper. The beginning is going to be graphics-heavy versus the end portion.

As for all the grease splatters, busted shafts, wheezing and whirling noises surrounding these poor little machines... :gasp:

I recommend that if you are experiencing these problems, you could do a few things about it. First- if you are finding all sorts of information on the forums telling you how to build a platform on your random orbital so that you can stand on it to add some "pressure", don't do it. The whole "pressure" thing has been overblown. The amount that should be used is dependent upon upon many factors. The buffing pad and buffing liquid types are certainly at the top of the list. Pad rotation is almost always mentioned when the "method" is discussed because it should be used as a gauge to help determine whether the combination you are using is working efficiently.

If you are having to press down extremely hard to notice an improvement in defect removal versus a normal amount of pressure, you need to either use a smaller diameter pad, a shorter pad, or a pad utilizing a different material. Another reason you may not be seeing a big improvement in defect removal may have to do with the machine's stroke diameter. If you are using a small stroke machine (3/32" or 3/16" is pretty small), try using a machine using a 5/16" or 3/4" orbit diameter.

FYI- The DeWalt DW443 and the Festool Rotex RO150 FEQ each have a 3/16" stroke, the Meguiar's G100/G110/G220, and the Porter Cable machines use a 5/16" stroke, while the Makita BO6040 has a 7/32" stroke diameter. The Dynabrade 61379/61384 Dual Action Buffing Head features a 3/4" stroke (talk about a random orbital on steroids!).

Here is some good info. It was posted on another site by me:

Thanks for the kind words, guys.

I have intentionally avoided posting information about this method because there are soooo many reasons this method works. I think it is best to give a few pointers now, because there is a lot of misinformation and confusion about the procedure. I do not want newbies to try this method before using what is normally recommended!! NEWBIES- this is NOT for you!!! Until the paper is released, stick with the manufacturers recommendations if at all possible (with exception to the priming part- it helps every time I've tried it).

Luster... here you go!
While an increase in pressure is necessary, it is not the only factor that should be addressed when using the "method".

Proper priming of the pad is super important!
This one step will have more positive effect on polishing performance than anything else. Well, a clean pad is equally important.

Consistent pressure across the pad is key.

The pad should be rotating at all times. More speed is a good thing when heavy defect removal is the goal. This does not mean that slow rotation will not work. However- some pads rotate well while others do not. Oftentimes, if there is insufficient removal of defects even with a substantial amount of downward pressure, a swap of the pad to one that is more aggressive or smaller in diameter will work. The guys that are using smaller diameter pads to remove heavy defects are working smart- not hard.

After all of the defects have been satisfactorily removed, final polishing should be accomplished using the softest or mildest pad available, with a couple of caveats:

The pad must be able to accept firm pressure without marring the surface. If marring of the paint occurs, do a test spot by hand using a foam or microfiber applicator pad. Check your work. If the marring has been eliminated, the pad should be inspected for damage or contamination. If the pad is clean, it is likely that it is incompatible with the paint type when paired with the particular buffing liquid being used.

There is a lot of confusion pertaining to how much product should be used when using this "method".

In general, for defect removal
First, thoroughly prime the pad as shown here:

A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online

Add buffing liquid as needed, making sure to clean the pad prior to adding more buffing liquid. To properly clean the pad, lightly brush with a soft nylon bristled brush. Next, use compressed air to remove stuck on debris, followed by a quick towel cleaning of the pad. To towel clean, hold a microfiber towel in one hand and press the pad into it while throttling the machine using the other hand for 3-5 seconds (or until the pad looks clean). For safety sake, a microfiber bonnet over a foam pad works great!

To hold the bonnet/pad combo, this type of applicator is ideal (this link takes a minute to load so be patient):

http://www.ferroind.com/pdfs/Ferro%20Industries,%20Inc%20Catalog.pdf

(bottom of page 7, part number JPS-60)

For final polishing, prime the finishing pad as previously discussed, and let the pad sit for a few minutes. This will allow the buffing liquid some time to permeate the pore structure of the pad. Prior to use, remove a majority of the buffing liquid utilizing the towel cleaning method previously discussed. This will eliminate clumps of abrasive material and remove excess product from the pore structure of the pad (this way no added product will make its way onto the surface of the pad). At this point, the pad face should have a very consistently applied amount of buffing liquid. Then, polish at a slow speed setting, making certain that the pad is able to rotate (it does not matter how many rotations there are, the goal is to minimize the chance of "flatspotting the pad). Add small amounts of product as needed.


If some marring persists, super-clean the pad or replace it, re-prime as mentioned, and then remove as much product as you can using compressed air and the microfiber (as discussed). There will still be some fresh and moist buffing liquid attached to the pad. Use a very slow speed setting, use constant pressure, and DO NOT lighten up at the end of the cycle. That's all.
__________________
Kevin Brown
NXTti Instructor, Meguiar's/Ford SEMA Team, Meguiar's Distributor/Retailer


Finally- if you do not think the effort is worth it, and swear by a rotary, no biggie! I am a rotary guy, too. This method does work and does not typically grenade machines.
The "paper" is first about the random orbital, and then about the "method". If you decide to give it a go and are not seeing success, ask around, or you can always e-mail or call me! I am very easy to get a hold of, and the goal here is to help guy achieve better paint polishing results.

Thanks! :support:

 

links are broken.

or it could just be me.

 

Fixed. :crash:

 

cool thanks! and thanks for the write up!

 

[I just realized I need to throw them into the Word program, place them, read the surrounding text, and then add the text in the diagrams.]

FWIW- I'm an author / ghost writer if I can be of any help in writing the explanation for diagrams - just ask

 

We all look forward to reading the paper. :applause2:

 

[

I certainly am no author, nor am I a graphics expert.
Hopefully it will all come together in a sensible manner and be useful to those interested in the topic.




.

As for all the grease splatters, busted shafts, wheezing and whirling noises surrounding these poor little machines... :gasp:




^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Thats Funny Stuff right there :chips:^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^







. The Dynabrade 61379/61384 Dual Action Buffing Head features a 3/4" stroke (talk about a random orbital on steroids!).





^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^This is the 1 I want, if a Rotary can't be used. Where do you reccomend getting 1 thru?^^^^^^^^^







Here is some good info. It was posted on another site by me:

Thanks for the kind words, guys.

I have intentionally avoided posting information about this method because there are soooo many reasons this method works. I think it is best to give a few pointers now, because there is a lot of misinformation and confusion about the procedure. I do not want newbies to try this method before using what is normally recommended!! NEWBIES- this is NOT for you!!! Until the paper is released, stick with the manufacturers recommendations if at all possible (with exception to the priming part- it helps every time I've tried it).

Luster... here you go!
While an increase in pressure is necessary, it is not the only factor that should be addressed when using the "method".





^^^^^^:shead:This is why I have never even paid much attention to what other ppl thought was the KB Method......^^^^^^^^^^^^

I wanna here it from the Originator>>Kevin Brown :headbang:








A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online



http://www.ferroind.com/pdfs/Ferro%20Industries,%20Inc%20Catalog.pdf

(bottom of page 7, part number JPS-60)




^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I look forward to viewing these soon :chips: ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^



__________________
Kevin Brown
NXTti Instructor, Meguiar's/Ford SEMA Team, Meguiar's Distributor/Retailer


Finally- if you do not think the effort is worth it, and swear by a rotary, no biggie! I am a rotary guy, too. This method does work and does not typically grenade machines.
The "paper" is first about the random orbital, and then about the "method". If you decide to give it a go and are not seeing success, ask around, or you can always e-mail or call me! I am very easy to get a hold of, and the goal here is to help guy achieve better paint polishing results.

Thanks! :support:[/QUOTE]



Thanks Kevin for this post, and for being more active on this Site eace:





WOW, :sorry: I HACKED UP YOUR THREAD TRYING TO RESPOND Kevin :gasp:

cOMPUTERS ARE NOT MY STRONG POINT :crash:

 

OH MY!!!! :giggle: I am SOOOO laughing my head off right now. I was thinking, "Odd use of spacing...."

Then I read your last statement and it just killed me! :hippie:

 

I'm so Embarrased^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^:duh:

But Glad Your Not To Offended eace:

 

is KBM paper out yet? I cant find the paper in internet ....

anyone hv the paper yet? where can i download it?

cheers

 

Don't think its out yet. He'll probably post up once its fnish.

 

Holding off buying a Makita here (have a Griot's PC). It doesn't have to be perfect. Many documents get revised over time.

 

As some of you know (especially if you have chimed in on this thread!), I have been working on an in-depth paper about the random orbital. Like many of you, I check out several detailing sites. Occasionally, I stumble upon a question pertaining to the durability of the "clutch system" used in the random orbital. This is a seemingly reasonable concern, as most paint polishing enthusiasts do not typically worry about how the machine does what it does- they just want it to work well and work for a long time!

So, I thought I would post up some diagrams which I plan on using in the "paper". Now- for those of you that are wondering about the clutch system.... don't, because... There are no clutches in the random orbital. Here are four diagrams that will hopefully help you understand how the movement is created:










And if these diagrams do not help you better understand the random orbital... then I am in a HEAP o' trouble!

 

As long as when you pull the trigger the thing on the ends spins its all good eh!

I feel bad posting in this thread as I have only used rotaries for correction

 

When you are ready for the "big gun", the diagrams may help! :fs:

I could have focused on rotary buffers, but I needed some graphics practice, and it was too easy to draw a bunch of loops. :doh:

 

When you are ready for the "big gun", the diagrams may help!"+

:giggle:"