Had alot of trouble with SIP AND 106 today

Should be able to find it somewhere local that sells 3M.

 

Any bodyshop supply store has it or use google. Ultrafina works best with a rotary though.

 

Sounds very familiar: I will not get out SIP whe it's too humid outside. The pad gumms up and it spits balls everywhere. And when those balls grind up in the paint, have fun getting them off. Might as well start drinking heavily right then and there!

 

Not to deter, but i noticed you mentioned x groove pads, where can i find who handles these, or research them? Thanks.

 

cobra at ag

 

"Available April 24" @ ADS.

He needs to update his site cuz I have other stuff I wanna purchase from him.

 

Yeah, the one and only time I used SIP, it gave me all sorts of fits with the Flex 3401 and orange pad. I was doing my dad's Jag XKR and it left some holograms on me that scared the bejeezus out of me at first. Had to use some Micro Polish to take care of it. It got a little tempermental as well. Anyway, just thought I'd chime in.

 

The ceramiclear Menzerna polishes are sometimes quite fickle and there's a few variables that can cause them to misbehave... I've had it happen a few times to me now, and generally turn to Meguiars #80-series of polishes when they play up (always on the rotary though, the Menz never seems to be problematic on a DA for me).

They use a wax based lubricant which is where part of the problem lies... when its to cold, this causes the polish to clump as the wax is too cold, and it will not spread easily... this is easily rectified though by keeping the polish warm and spending more passes at the slower speeds spreading it to get the heat up in the panel a little and this will allow the wax lubricants to work most effectively and it should present you with no problems.

The other issue it is quite debateable as to what is causing it - basically the symptoms are that thye polishes flashes white instantly, dires very quickly (at slow speed), the pad then starts to squeak and squeal and bits of poliush are thrown out and the residue becomes an absolute nightmare to remove... Basically, this sounds like what you are experiencing. At first I thought this to be a hunidity issue, but now I'm not so sure - and I now believe its a paint issue that is at play, as mentioned earlier in this thread: "sticky paint".

What seems to happen is that on certain paints which seems a little sticky, the abrasives can bite in and raise the temperature. The first you know this is happening ios when the pad rather than gliding, feels as if it is dragging. |This raises the heat very quickly which dries the polish out fast - causing the flashing of the residue and the squeaking of the pad. Once this has happened, there's no way back on that set other than to stop anf buff off and try again with a different technique... I ten to work for longer at slower speeds lifting the head of the machine to reduce the pressure that may be applied and build the speeds up very slowly... takes a while but seems to get around the problem.

Now, Menzerna does seem quite prone to this problem but I have seen it afflict all polishes I own - Menzerna, Meguiars, 3M, Optimum, Chemical Guys and MarkV... So some paints are really just very prone to this problem and need special attention when machine polishing so be prepared to hone your techniques suitable to these paints.

Hope that helps clear up a few of the polishing issues.

 

I've used System One with rotary and a G110 and it works with both. I'm a rotary newb so my results were OK but I know in time they will improve. I used it with the G110 with the yellow sonus SFX pad, 5.5 in low pro orange and white LC pads and the results were good. I will say this it dusts quite a bit.

 

Dave KG what you wrote in the 3rd paragraph is exatly what happened. P1ET your right on the money it was spitting balls out everywhere. lol

 

I have noticed that SIP will act up if the previous LSP was not fully removed from the paint surface or there is any kind of silicone or similar product present.

Menzerna polishes require a completely bare surface, free of ANY kind of wax, sealant, glaze or silicone product (including spray detailers) to work correctly. I have also been experiencing this a lot with customers that have brought their vehicles to the newer touchless / laser car washes. Whatever silicone product or chemicals they use in the wash process seems to imbed itself in the paint, which interferes when you are polishing.

It is very important to do a full exterior prep-sol wipedown before any polishing is performed. Alcohol does help a little, but it doesn't seem to be strong enough to fully remove what is imbedded in the paint and break through the barrier. The prep-sol will ensure that the paint surface is free of any contaminants and make polishing much easier.

Lots of people tend to wipe the vehicle down with a spray detailer after washing, which will contribute to the problem.


As for an alternative compound, I really like 3M Extra-Cut Compound (Agressive).

For a medium polish, I really like Menzerna IP, or SIP (when it doesn't act up)

For a finishing polish, I prefer 3M Ultrafina.

 

I had what Rickrack is explaining happen to me with a Range Rover. Every polish I tried was drying up immediately. Had nothing to do with the weather, something was in the paint.

 

Ok here is what i came up with if what rickrack hypothisis was. I ve had trouble on two cars one had zaino sealant on before i used 106 and the other had megs#24 and yellowwax before i used the 106 and SIP.