FK Paint Decontamination Kit..Who's Used it??

For what it is worth I have 2 gallons of each of the ABC steps. I also have 25 gallons of their wheel cleaner.

 

That good? How effective is the wheel cleaner? You can clay in the B Step from what I hear.

 

I prefer it both in cost and effectiveness to the p21s

 

which decontamination system is the better one? FK? or the valuguard?

 

valu gard....I have read a few posts on other forums that the FK1 is not as good...if Valu Gards is the one used by most car companies for a prep wash...then I guess they tried both and picked this one as there choice of product to use...

All in all both will work I guess.....


there are a few posts on Topia with users of the FK1 system....with mixed results...

I have used the VG one and I will stick to it because of the fine results..its not a cure all as you may have to still clay a little after in spots..but your paint is super clean down to the micro pores....great system to use before defect removal as it cleans all products off the paint so there is no product to hinder the polishing process as some do....

AL

 

AutoInt (Valugard) has a great deal on their ABC right now. For $55.50 + shipping you get a gallon of each step, two wash mitts, a dispenser bottle and a towel of some sort.



M-32 Kit - Automotive International

 

Alternative product - Finish Kare product (#1119) is designed to soften the paint and contains petroleum solvents for that purpose. It also contains tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) as the instructions dictate; this should not be allowed to dry on the paint, since as it dries it becomes more and more caustic and causes major paint damage.

After a complete rinse to remove most of the caustic residue, the next step is applying #883 which is highly acidic and contains sulphuric acid and phosphoric acid; both of which are strong mineral acids. Again, as the instructions dictate, this should not dry on the surface either since acidity continuously increases as the water is evaporated. Note, as mineral acids are heated in they become more aggressive (so only use on a cool paint surface).


Again the car needs to be rinsed with cold water to remove excess acid. In the last step #118SC is used as the final wash which has some mild caustic component, it contains baking soda to neutralize any remaining acid. Due to the harsh chemicals used in their formulation I would not recommend this product

 

Nice post Jon...


That is exactly why I never used the FK1 system.....I watched my truck when I bought it get the Valu Gard system done...I was impressed...so I stuck with that one....I heard the FK1 system was a bit tricky and harsh acids....

Al

 

Thanks for the update Al on the ford part #s.

I guess I just don't understand how a product can clean into the "pores" of paint but then leave bonded contaiments behind.

In your opinion does it remove any bonded contaiments or does it just leave a light layer?

More testing needed on my end.

 

When it comes down to stuff like this I think the best source would be the MFG, or Ron K if he still works at AutoInt.

People can reiterate and butcher what has been told them that it creates a lot of false information.

Shrug.

I've yet to use a Decon kit so that's the best I can comment.

 

well sometimes the bonded stuff is really on there...so either a second wash is needed or just a fast clay...I do a fast clay....but after the wash is done...the chemicals in the wash are hard on clay...so i wait till its done..feel the paint and hit the spots needed....

if you live near a airport or heavy industry..the stuff from them really is hard to get off....I work near a air base...and I get stuff from the aircraft on the paint ...the landing pattern is right over our parking lot...lol...plus I park in the truck yard and diesals idling all day..the emissions from them are bad....

so the system will not get 100% of the stuff off....i would say 97% any ways will come off....it will get the bonded stuff off...but some will remain (the stubborn stuff)......


clay will just get the surface..sheer off whats on the paint..but the wash gets in deep to clean.....

Al

 

Thanks guys!

 

I've just recently used ABC recently on my daily drivers. It was 16oz of A to a gallon of water.

Part B is thick, and you could probably do a entire vehicle with 8oz of this stuff.

I did clay afterwards as the paint was still not as smooth as I expected it to be, and the clay did pick up stuff across the board.

I was not expecting to clay as the *ketch* advised me the system get's everything but IMO, I would just clay anyhow, since if you're ABC'ing , you probably are going to polish anyhow.