Diminishing vs. Non-Diminishing Polish

When I said you are useless on your own; I was referring to the fact that you believe you have all the answers and are too self-righteous to consider the opinions of others. Did I not defend my own statement before I presented the testimony of others? I described a circumstance where I transitioned to the PC to achieve a flawless finish (jet black Victory motorcycle); I even provided a photograph. You completely disregarded my testimony in your response which is why I decided to present the opinions of other experts. Consequently, you entirely disregarded their testimony as well. I'm not using my recent detail as a pedestal or crutch. You are making the mistake of causation; recognizing an irrelevant relationship between two items. I would still like to know what I should have done to achieve a flawless finish on the mentioned motorcycle. Please explain how I should have worked the buffer to obtain a better result. Feel free to PM me from here on out so we can indulge ourselves without adversely impacting other forum members.

 

This thread has some great information but we all know NICA doesn't want an argument on his forum. Thank you everyone for their help and others chime in with any information.

 

Never said I had all the answers, I said one should try and figure things out on their own, this is how you learn and get ahead. I am not too proud to say I speak with others and talk about processes. Matter of fact I was on the phone yesterday talking about a process, we were both going over ideas on it. Once again I never disregarded their testimony, just said once again you should put forth the effort to figure things out, I prefer to do it this way and a firm believer that is how you learn. If someone tells you how to do everything how are you going to get ahead or even do things on your own if all the answers are given to you. I also belive I answered your question several times, think on your own, try things, trust me you will figure something out. I am glad you see that we should pm each other about this, but I am sure we have provided some entertainment, good, bad or useless. I have sent you a pm as stated above.

 

I don't believe I provided any indication which might suggest I don't deliberate and troubleshoot on my own. In fact, the experience I shared at the beginning of this thread was a direct result of me doing so; I thought I made this perfectly clear. I was not genuinely asking for your advice, I was making a point. Controversy can be constructive to a degree; however, this conversation is past that point. Honestly, I don't have any hard feelings; I hope you feel the same. I trust you will maintain a willingness to provide sincere advice if I utilize the forum to bounce ideas around. You can depend on me to do the same also. Truce?:drinking:

 

Maybe that wasn't the best way to say that, in general it seems people rather get info off the internat than try and figure it out themselves, my mistake. I would make a suggestion that you try different pressures with the rotary, this might take awhile but the slightest difference can make a world of difference. I would agree it did get past that point and now we can move on, never had any hard feelings, just voicing my opinion. Plus like I said I PM'd you.

 

Just wanted to mention that I actually got to speak with Brandon and had a great conversation with him. Once again the perception on the forum is totally different when speaking to that person.

 

Well said. Thanks for the call Dana.

 

Glad to hear that there were no hard feelings that came as a result of this discussion.

 

Me too...now two great minds can come together to help!

 

aranoia: You guys aren't going to make out ...are you? :rollinglaugh:

All kidding aside, glad to see you got it sorted out.

P.S. Rotaries rule!

 

I hope I get the chance to use my new rotary this weekend. I'll most likely be using SIP and/or MarkV Mystique and an orange uber pad...may even break out the PFW and try to burn all the way through my car's roof.

I think I'll try to see what I can do to the loaner I have as well

 

First of all I'm thrilled to see that members here are mature enough to work out there differences, extremely thrilled :applause: Like I keep saying the forum is only as good as it's members.

Second, the thread is very interesting and filled with good information, keep it up guys :thumb:

 

some very heated discussion there
Anyway, here is my opinion

using a rotary only, no matter how great you are and how good your lighting is, can surprise us all sometimes. hologram come back (when menz not used properly and oils wash out)
Yes I can finish down as best as possible with a rotary and get 100% correction in one step and finish down to 95% 85RD finish quality with that one product (usually prima swirl)
I spend more time jewelling the finish and use a combination of natural aussie made cleaning product, black baron and prima slick to extend working time of most polishes to up to 10 minutes
it's just technique, pad type and pad lubrication

unlike many detailers, I do not stop once the correction has been done and Menzerna PO85RD has been applied via rotary and or PC/G220

To get the ultimate finish, more work with non abrasive products needs to be done on the same layer of paint, multiple times if not more to get all the colour out of the paint, increase clarity etc
paint can be rectified with abrasives and non abrasives. oxidation for instance can be fused out with Glare Zero, reversing the damage without removing any of it

A true professional detailer these days should have a rotary, DA and an RO to guarantee best results
I do not use Meg's products as the price for 105 and 205 in Australia is insane and I find Menzerna and Prima to deliver better quality finishes and correction (I tested 105 and 205 recently)

As far as holograms go, what I am doing may make holograms a thing of the past for all rotary only detailers and prevent all dust at all for no cleanup or pad skipping
when doing light correction (a more basic detail) and not wishing to use the flex xc 3401, I am doing the following

Machine pads from - Flexipad, Edge, LC Kompressor and CCS, Tuf Buf, 3M UK, Megs solo and 2.0 and farecla
Pad spritzed with Black Baron foam pad conditioner
one blob (3 to 4 ml) of Green Aussie cleaner on the pad (the oils in this aussie made natural product actually extend working time and reduce heat)
tiny dab of diggers parrafin oil (for sticky paints)

Then for example - PRIMA SWIRL
LC CCS orange

4 drops - spread at 600
then up to 1550 to 1900 (stay below 1600 on composite panels)
work for three to four minutes
spray prima slick onto pad (slick has some glazing ability and aids in micro marring prevention)
back to 1700, 1500, 1300, 1100, 1000

more prima slick on panel

back to 900, 750 and 600
hot and cold prepsol or IPA wipedown

the combination of black baron and the green aussie means much longer working time, higher speeds without burning paint, the higher speed causes the paint to be burnished better so that the colour shade is darkened on dark colours.

after the wipedown, LED, halogen, sodium vapour, metal halide and sunlight all reveal no holograms at all, complete correction and a brilliant finish that if you wanted too (when doing express details or mid level details), means no need for another step

here is the trunk of an aussie ford falcon after prima swirl with LC CCS orange at 600, 1900, then back to 600 rpm via 200 rpm at a time


this is the oily film that was on the paint and prevented any holograms and extended working time


LED light inspection shows some medium level damage


after the swirl application



Do I know everything, most certainly not. I take in the advice of others, adapt my own style and come up with new ways of detailing vehicles

We all have our own techniques.
having your pads off centre for an orbital style spin with a rotary does work well at stopping holograms too (only do that with the jewelling process once the polish has broken down)