Hello everyone, Thank you for reading my post. My name is Amir. I have just purchased a used black honda civic. I have never polished a car, I have only waxed by hand. My father has an older 7" Porter Cable Polisher, I have also recently purchased a cheap Wen 6" Random Orbit Waxer. Considering I am a beginner, and the car is dark (in this case black but I want to get products which I can use for the other car which is dark grey), please advise me what to use (not too expensive). I have been looking at Mothers products from Clay Bar to the 3 step system they have. 3M and Mecguire seem like they have alot of good products too. There is a pretty bad scratch in the front of the car, which I am sure I need to sand. There are rubbing compounds, scratch removers, clay bars, polishes, waxes. What is the difference between a rubbing compound and polish? Also there are many different heads for the polishers. This being my first project, I don't want to make things too complicated but get the best results possible. Any advice would be deeply appreciated. Thank You, Amir
A little something I put together for customers, this is very GENERAL and for those NOT familiar with detailing. Detailing: To meticulously clean, polish and protect all parts of a vehicle from top to bottom, inside and out, utilizing special tools and products that would not normally be used by your typical car wash. Maintenance Wash: General maintenance wash is for a vehicle whose exterior has been well maintained with polishes and sealants. This wash utilizes a gentle shampoo that will not strip wax or sealants and add gloss and shine. Decontamination Wash: Decontamination wash is for vehicle whose exterior has been neglected and has above surface contamination and swirl marks. This wash utilizes a strong soap mixture to remove dirt and strip wax in preparation for removing the above surface contamination and swirl marks. Clay Bar: used to remove above surface paint contamination, paint overspray and industrial fallout. Paint contamination is tiny metal shavings from rail dust, brake dust, and industrial fallout. Paint contamination can be felt as a "rough or gritty" texture on the paint's surface as opposed to the “smooth as glass” texture. After this process the paint is left clean and smooth and ready for either compounding or polishing. Below Surface Contamination: Types of below surface contamination could be water spots, bird dropping etch, tar stains, and tree sap stains. These types of contamination usually occur when a vehicles paint surface is left unprotected from the elements and the contamination is not immediately removed. These types of contamination usually require a combination of chemical cleaners, compounds and polishes to remove and restore the paints appearance. Swirl Marks: Swirl marks come from improper washing and drying techniques and automated car washing systems. Utilizing pre-rinse or pre-soaks, grit guards in wash buckets, clean microfiber mitts, air blower to dry and clean plush microfiber towels with detail spray to dry the vehicle, along with the proper pressure all reduce the possibility of instilling swirl marks. Paint correction: the process of removing these defects from a vehicles paint finish through machine compounding/polishing. This process will produce the most dramatic and eye dazzling results, as each panel of the vehicle is polished until near perfection. Paint Coatings: permanent and semi-permanent paint coatings, glass coatings, trim coatings and even wheel coatings offer far greater protection than a conventional car wax or paint sealant. Paint coatings are resistant to alkaline cleaners, road salts and other harsh chemicals that can find their way from the road to your vehicle’s delicate finish. Most paint coatings are resin or quartz based. A paint coating forms a much stronger, harder bond and thicker layer of protection, enabling them to last considerably longer than wax/sealants. Most paint coatings last a minimum of one year while others, are semi-permanent and only need to be re-applied every couple years. Paint Sealants: Synthetic products, composed mainly of polymers, designed for long-term paint protection and easy application. Paint sealants last longer than carnauba wax, usually 4-6 months, and are resistant to the elements. The latest polymer technology allows paint sealants to give the same gloss, depth and shine of a carnauba wax. Carnauba Wax: Carnauba is the hardest natural wax on earth and offers water repellency and UV protection. Carnauba waxes offer maximum shine, slickness and gloss. Topping a paint sealant with a carnauba wax will also extend protection 1-3 months. Step 1: Follow directions of the product and brand you are using. Step 2: Start with Wheels and Tires: Read directions and make sure the wheel cleaner is safe to use on the type of wheel you have. Clean wheels and tires with an all-wheel and tire cleaner with various bushes/mitts. Rinse very well. After the entire car is dried go back to the wheels and give them a polish if needed and then use a sealant. Keeping the wheels protected with a sealant will make them easier to clean because the dirt won’t stick to the wheel. To maintain the wheels after a deep cleaning you only need car soap and water. Step 3: The Wash Rinse entire car getting all the loose dirt off. Wash using two 5 gallon buckets with grit guards, 1 with clean water and 1 with soap and water, after each use dip the mitt in clean water before putting back in soap and water. Start at the top and work your way down. Rinse again using the flooding method, take nozzle off the hose and let the water just cascade the soap and water off. This method will leave less water on the paint. Step 4: Drying Use a leaf blower to dry the car and then a microfiber waffle weave towel to pat dry or lightly wipe the remaining water off. Use a light mist of detail spray with the towel to prevent scratching. Never use a dry towel on paint. Step 5: Clay Claying removes above surface bonded contaminants - these include industrial fallout, paint overspray, tree sap mist, bird droppings, etc. This prepares the paint for polish or compound. Step 6: Compound Compound removes below surface defects - these include fine scratches, swirl marks, etching, oxidation, etc. Follow directions and do small sections at a time 2x2. Step 7: Polish Polishing creates high gloss, shine and luster. Follow directions and do small sections at a time 2x2. Step 8: Paint Sealants (optional if using a wax) Paint sealants last longer than carnauba wax, usually 5-7 months, and are resistant to the elements. The latest polymer technology allows paint sealants to give the same gloss, depth and shine of a carnauba wax. Step 9: [SIZE=11.5pt]Paint Coatings: [/SIZE][SIZE=11.5pt]permanent and semi-permanent paint coatings, glass coatings, trim coatings and even wheel coatings offer far greater protection than a conventional car wax or paint sealant. Paint coatings are resistant to alkaline cleaners, road salts and other harsh chemicals that can find their way from the road to your vehicle’s delicate finish. Most paint coatings are resin or quartz based. A paint coating forms a much stronger, harder bond and thicker layer of protection, enabling them to last considerably longer than wax/sealants.[/SIZE] Most paint coatings last a minimum of one year while others, are semi-permanent and only need to be re-applied every couple years. Step 10 : Carnauba Wax (optional if using a sealant) Carnauba waxes offer maximum shine, slickness and gloss, but will not last as long as a sealant. Topping a paint sealant with a carnauba wax will also extend protection 2-3 months. Follow directions carefully. Step 11: Maintenance Follow the washing and drying steps above using a gentle soap that will not strip wax or sealant Detail Spray or Waterless Wash: Use for light spot cleaning of dirt, bird droppings, bugs…etc. Spray Wax: Use a spray wax after every other wash to boost your paint protection. Use a spray wax that can be applied to plastic trim, glass, wheels …..etc. and apply to entire car. You can purchase products at www.detailersdomain.com
Thank you ver much. This was very helpful. The only other question I have is about polishers and pads. I have an older porter cable polisher (doesn't have the side handle) and a new cheap random orbit waxer/polisher. Which one do you recommend using? I can return the new one, if the old one will do or I just might have to buy a nice new one. Also is there any danger in compounding as far as burning the paint or something, since it is closer to the paint. Do you recommend using different pads for compound, polish and wax? If so what kind?
I recommend using the older PC with a 5 inch backing plate, you will need at least 2 cutting pads, 2 polishing and 2 finishing pads. Check out www.detailersdomian.com for pads, polish and compounds.
