Calling Richard... for LED solution details

Yep! Totally agree. I've been preaching this for years...usually ending up in controversy...that bigger is NOT better..500 watt worklamps are not the best etc...
Here's something else I do, and the reason I've been searching for LEDs...because I burnt my ears a few too many times... simple 50 wall halogen track lighting suspended over the car.



Same light setup on a car I performed a test spot on..

 

there are some 50 and 100W leds on ebay. they do cost pretty penny but im sure you can rig something up to use them. they will need pretty big heatsinks with fans and special driver since they are about 9-10 amp. but they are maybe too bright though.

 

That is a great set-up.:yikes: I am all about the polishing in the dark method. It is how I get my windows clean too. :crasy: I admit it!

 

that track light is pretty nice for horizontal panels

 

we need a chat / shoutbox on DB... I wonder if that is possible.

 

Thanks! I have a similar setup for vertical panels. The suspended lights and flexible goose necks let me position the light where I need them. I'm actually moving in a slightly different direction now because those light stands become a liability with all the extension cords and hydraulic lines for my lift...after 14 hours of polishing...I'm tripping over everything in my shop.

I've already got power drops from the ceiling, but now considering adding a variation of the Rail System from the film industry to allow me to suspend lights using scissor mounts. The lights stay high, out of the way, I can pull them down and position them as needed. Pricey solution but very trick.

 

That is why I am lightin' the fire. Goosenecks, scissor mounts, experience in the film industry... I will be the first in line. btw , your mini is no joke!

 

Heh heh thanks!!!

 

Interesting stuff guys, thanks for sharing.
Am I understanding right Richard that you think a 1000+W halogen light is overkill in a lot of paint inspection situations?

 

I'm glad I'm not into rigging up fancy lights like you guys, lol.
The last thing I need is another hobby, detailing supplies/fiancee/dslr/FIANCEE burn up enough cash as it is, haha.
You guys make me ashamed of my 1000 watts worklamp and 3M Sun Gun.

 

It really depends. Bright lights let you see holograms that might not show up with lower powered solutions. I still love the "sun" for inspecting paint, especially when I'm done, lol, but I can do without the heat while I'm working. With high powered lights, you have to move them further away, with lowered powered lights you can bring them closer. I also have a 3M Sun Gun that I got from a forum member, and while it's a good light, for the price, it's not substantially better than say a Xenon "swirl finder" light, for detecting swirls.

Also 1000 watt lights might blow out the defects on light or metallic paints....so it really depends.

Richard

 

As Richard stated above, the reflection of the higher powered lights (e.g. halogen) on the metallic flake sometimes keeps one from seeing very slight hazing.

 

Some examples of my lighting







Defect looks invisible, hard to see on white paint.

 

WOW I just read all 4 pages!! except Kyo's link...that page I will need to read it over a week period and still I will be clueless... Thanks for sharing Richard, Im so glad I haven't wasted so much money on lights yet, so far im pleased with Fenix TK11.

 

The problem with the Fenix Tk11 any other handheld light is that none of them prevent you from over buffing the paint. The common problem with all handheld lights is that you check for a defect, polish and polish and polish and keep checking with the light until the defect is minimized or gone. You stop when you don't see it after multiple times. With handsfree lights, you polish until you are satisfied because you know exactly what is happening at all times. I know what my rotary versus my PC will take out and how long, so I'll buff with the rotary until I see "PC Fixable" defects, then know that I can pull any remaining buffer trails or minor defects on the final finishing passes. I have seen many possibilities along the way, from glasses mounted lamps to ear mounted lamps to suction cup/magnetic mounts, and nothing really worked well enough. One of my favorite tests has been mounting a light to the end of my rotary. This actually worked really well but had some usability issues. Proper lighting is crucial for the paint polisher.

 

Tripod and one of those chip bag clips is very capable of holding a TK11 steady. Its also handy to use to hold a laser to if you're into doing spot repairs like that. No, I don't have pictures, I opened a bag of chips yesterday :giggle:

I still have to stop by the shop Richard. Been too busy with midterms and club activities :thud:

 

ugh, tell me about it. Let's hit up his shop this Thursday.
Richard, how about setting up rigs to hold 3M sun gun's lightbulb?
I'm sure eyezack can figure out how to power it and all, lol.

 

Haha, just the bulb itself?? lol. Wouldn't be hard, but with that fan, I assume it must get VERY hot.

 

Well, I doubt it'd get any hotter than the huge light you have, lol.
Position one of each on a rig (and have a roller on the bottom) on each corner of a car, you'd have portable sun right there in the shop!

 

Dragging up an old thread here, but the subject is far from old.....I wanted to update everyone on my latest LED lighting rig. LED technology has grown so fast! I recently participated in Kevin Brown and Jason Rose's NXTi class and I brought along my rig to help me perfect the paint. Here are some pix from the event and my light. At less than 60watts it runs very cool but puts out 6,000 Lumens in spot the size of the sun. In practice, it reveals more defects than even the sunlight, so if you want guaranteed results under ANY viewing condition, this is the best way to do it.