Best wax under 80$

yes....its safe to do monthly if you want to....

it was explained to me like this...the sealant part of it is as durable as 105...the abrasive is a micro type thats used on polishing fine jewelery..very very fine..just enough to burnish the paint some to rid of any slight water marks or oxidation....the cleaner was made to disolve hydrocarbon contaminants from emissions that actually set in the pores of paint....also the chemical will cut oxidation with the help of the micro abrasives....anti corrosive agents are added also..and a slickness agent to retard algea and oils from adhering to boat hulls..but works the same for paint..makes it easy to clean and keeps fallout from adhering

Al

Al

 

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hmm ive read good things about both, more so about concours. But some say collectors lasts longer, although concours is supposed to last quite a while. :shrug: i probably wouldnt be able to tell the difference. Looks like 501 will be on my next to order list along with previously stated. :thud: I'm gonna try cleanse>concours and 501>concours to try to see the difference.
So in summary of all AL's and other's helpful info, 501 is like deep cleanse with added protection, good for following with wax or sealant. 1 last question :thud: , any downsides to 501 before a expensive wax/sealant? Differing looks ect.

thanks

 

Hey Al,

just to grt my mind straight. when you use 501 to cleanse or correct paint (depending on pad and speed ) , do you work it in till it goes clear or do you just spread on a bit, then leave it to haze for a while before buffing off ? or something like just spread on a bit then wipe off immediately ?

I've got the pads and speed part , but not too sure about the working in or not part ... thanks

 

SweetLou..

I never seen any look difference when using a sealant/wax combo....I look at it like this..when you polish you get paint as glossy as you can and top it with a wax so the wax amplifies the look and takes on its own character looks....now with a sealant you add a touch more gloss..so the wax can compliment it....

think of it as womens make up..you add a foundation then top it your final product for the looks......same as a glaze.....

Buja....

I use a few different pads depending on the paint.....white if its bad..meaning water spots...fallout stains.....I work it at speed 2-3 with a Flex till I see a thin skim on the paint..then go to next panel...wait till it hazes and wipe off.....I due whole car before wiping

for good paint that i have polished prior and no paint spots....i use a blue pad...4" pad...I work the product till it skim coats then move on to next panel....wiping off after all paint is done..same speed also....


you may have to change pads a few times as they get very black and dirty...I usally go through 3 pads a vehicle....

AL

 

thanks Al !

I've set aside blue and white 4 inch pads esp for 501 .
cool, i'll work it till theres a thin layer then leave it to haze. and wipe off after covering the whole car.
do you reckon it will be good as an "eraser" to start afresh on a new set of sealant or wax yeah ? (instead of claying) .

and one off topic qn too, are you using 4 inch pads on your flex da ? the thing stopping me from getting the flex is that my 5.5 inch pads for use with the g220(udm) cant be used on the flex da...

 

nothing replaces a good claying EXCEPT a decam wash....so if the paint needs claying do it...clay will get what lays on the paint..501 will get whats in the paint and what ever emissions fallout that's left on the paint the clay could not get all off...

Sorry I meant a 5" pad with the Flex..I took a backing plate and cut it down to 4.65 inches...so a 5 or 5.5 pad works well....on a PC you can use a 4"...


do not worry about trim or rubber as it does not stain....

AL

 

hmm you cut the backing plate ? what tools did you use ? and can you please post pics of it ?