I need help..

Go to detailierdoamin and scroll down, click on the flex tool emblem and it goes right to all the polishers.

 

I know this is not the DA and it is a rotary. But could someone explain to me the difference between a rotary and the DA..
Flex Tool L 3403 VRG (Rotary)

 

Well the rotary spins in a circular motion, creating more heat but will do paint correction faster. The DA, oscillates. It still produces some heat but not as much as the rotary and will take a bit longer to do paint corection. The oscillation motion makes it harder to burn through a clear coat.

But like it was mentioned earlier, if you’re not careful even with a DA you can burn through clear coat.

 

Pros- the Porter Cable random orbital buffer is manufactured as a sanding machine, but can be adapted as a very safe polishing machine, as it lacks the power to burn paint. It is very easy to use and is ideal for very minor paint correction and the application of car care products

Cons- it lacks the power to produce the friction-heat required to breakdown the diminishing abrasives in polishes designed for hard clear coats and / or paint correction / renovation, although it could be used for this purpose utilizing 4-inch foam pads to increase surface friction / heat it is very time consuming

Alternative random orbital buffers - Flex XC 3401 VRG, Bosch Gex 150 Turbo, Festool Rotex - RO125, Makita BO6040 Polisher (alternate between circular or dual-action modes)

 

Alright well now I'm stuck haha. What do you all recommend?

 

If I had it to do over again, I would have skipped the time I spent using a Porter cable and
gone straight to the 3403 rotary. It is does what I need it to do in half the time the DA took
And the results are better.

 

I'm a newbie to buffers and skipped right to the Flex (see my 'first experiences' in the Flex section of the forums). The Flex is better in all ways to the PC and just as safe to use so it really comes down to money.

To afford the Flex over the PC I skipped the glaze and wax for my first detail. I'll get those once I save up some more cash. FWIW, here's what I ordered for my 2001 330ci:

10x All Purpose Towel - 16" x 16"
Clay Bar & Clay Lube Combo
Jet Seal 109 - 16 oz
PO106ff Ceramic Clear Coat Polish - 16 oz
SIP PO83 - 32 oz

Flex Tool XC 3401 VR (Orbital)
1x CCS Pad 6.5 inch Blue (Final Finish)
3x CCS Pad 6.5 inch White (Light Polishing)
3x CCS Pad 6.5 inch Orange (Polishing/Light Duty Compounding)
1x CCS European Hand Applicator Pad (RED)​

here is what i did:
CCS Orange - Light Cutting Pads

use w/ menzerna SIP
prep pad by soaking in water (distilled if possible), ring out, place in terry cloth towel, spin w/ machine (in empty bucket to previde splattering)
nickel size of polish for 18 x 18 inch section
squirt like ketchup around the outer edge of pad
blot / rub polish from pad onto surface b4 turning on buffer to avoid splattering
start Flex at level 1 or 2 and move quickly to spread polish evenly
then up it to 5 or 6 moving 1 inch per second over lapping 50%
just b4 poilish breaks down drop to 3 and do one last pass to minimize hazeing
3 – 5 mins until broken down
as polish thins out lighten up the pressure and increase movement
stop once the polish breaks down (begins to dust)
remove w/ microfiber towel
the finish will not be perfect – it is normal as the SIP creates / leaves the smaller ​

imperfections

might need to a spritz of 1:1 solution Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) / distilled water to help remove​

CCS White - Polishing Foam Pads

use w/ menzerna 106FF (nano)
follow same process as SIP
all scratches, spider webs should be gone​

CCS Blue - Finessing Foam Pad

used to apply JetSeal​

 

PC is very good for beginners who has no confidence but still have to be careful and pay close attention to what you are working on..
Ive learned that using smaller pads like 5.5" for Pc works best because you can focus on small areas..

You can pick any of these polishers and get good result, its just the matter of preference. I would start on PC or flex 3401 orbital and detail few cars and then step up to Rotary like makita, dewalt, hitachi or flex 3403... Its really up to you.

 

Hello,
When I was in Lo Angeles in summer, about a month before the Pebblebeach Concourse
will be held, those detailing shops with good reputations were busy. And I was there to
gather come materials to show their work on the Japanese car magazine and what I saw
there was kinda unbelievable.

What I saw was that a recently restored Ferrari 275GTB4 was brought in, which was the
car that being invited for the concourse. The first thing those pros did on the car was to
spray the light coat of the black lacquer paint on the beautiful red body panels. Then after
dried, they started rubbing the panels with the soft women's napkin like pads with using
the Blue Poly metal polish to level the paint surface.

The owner of the shop who is so well known in the Los Angeles area told me that the work
was done to make the whole painted surface as the true mirror like flat finish. And then
told me that most of the high grade metal polish works really well for as the polish for
almost anything on the car body. It contains a bit of a anmonia which cuts the oily dirt
and works just fine. It is basically for metal and so works just fine for the hard clear coats
used for today's cars.

So try the high end metal polish which is recommended for jewelry and so on. Do not use
the one fraom Amway because soon as you squeeze out the thing from the bottle , you
can feel the rough sand like strong abrasives which is just fine for the stainless steel but
others.

I used it to lighten the swirl marks on the black VW and it worked just fine. But remember,
delicacy is always required.