I did a car today,after correction I used shIne and seal followed by bw. I used a foam pad to apply it. After wiping it off then finishing the car I noted a few spots hazing. They wiped right off with no problem. I think I probably used to much, so I am wondering how you guys that use it on a regular basis apply it,or can offer any tips? Thanks Mike
Put it in a small push-top sprayer bottle and use with a foam pad. One spritz provides much more even coverage while using less product. It was most likely hazing simply because you applied too much.
Would this work for hard body as well? Also, do you spritz the foam pad or the paint? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Yes it will work with Hard Body as well. Spritz the foam pad. A little will go a long way, use one spritz at a time.
Just used it for the first time on a clients FR-S and it was also hazing quite a bit. I tried washing the car down with chilled water and wiping it with clean microfibers, but it just kept going. I think it's going to need to cure and then be cleaned and buffed again. Thanks for th trick about the spray bottle. Just a quick question though, how much covers how much area? (ex: 1 spritz can do half a door or a full fender, etc.) It's written on the bottle so I wasn't sure how much I could "spread" it.
Hazing only happens of the surface isn't prepped properly Washing with dawn or apc (I prefer p21s taw) is absolutely essential prior to SS or BW
I like applying it via a spray bottle and da. Couple spritzed to prime the pad, use (speed 2-3), and then one spritz is all that's needed from that point. If you apply it this way, you'll be able to tell when its time to reapply. Also, if you're getting any hazing, then its more than likely because there was still oil from polishing left over. BW & HB should go on clear...kind of like opti- seal or similar sealant.
+1 on what Donald said above Really early on I asked Jesse if BW could be dispensed through a thumb sprayer because I felt it would be more even compared to dribbling the product out of the original container...he said it wouldn't be a problem Others caught on and it's much better than using the supplied cap dispenser. Phil, Bryan burnworth and others use it this way as well. By the way Bryan burnworth made a YouTube video of him applying HB using the sprayer and and DA, check it out
Do you think that it could be because of a thick application as well, because I washed the car twice after polishing with a mixture of Sunlight Soap and Zep's Citrus Degreaser. If that doesn't get rid of polishing oils, I don't know what does.
That could be it. When I apply it via DA, it flashes off and turns clear. Wait about 15 mins and come back and buff off the high spots. Then I move on to the next section. It shouldn't take much to do a panel; a little goes a long way with this stuff. Play with it a little more and you'll get the feel of it. I just use one of the little thumb sprayer bottles from the travel section of target.
Well I applied to my car on purpose over top of polish residue, un-polished paint, and parts that had some indication of a prior LSP. It adhered just fine, I did get hazing for a bit but after a week and a wash I had no hazing leftover at all and the Hard Body seated just fine and is still holding up like day 1 ~2 months later. Also, from what I understand hazing can be caused by a really humid environment. This happened on a GT500 I did, and the hazing diminished severely after a couple dry wipedowns over the next 24 hours. I told the client it was just curing and explained to him my theory. He reported that a week later, there was no more hazing. I think it's really just a temporary problem, like waxes sweating. The sealant is just outgassing as it cures and it takes longer if it goes on thick or in a humid environment. Anyway, that's just my theory, maybe Jesse can confirm this.
Roger that Darkstar! Hazing comes from either the surface not being prepped well, over application and by humidity. The sealant is superhydrophobic so it attracts water and humidity, as well. But yes it does disappear once it's had the time to complete the curing process and after a wash or so
Oh and the humidit traps the solvents on the surface and sort of "bleeds" into the gloss enhancers, thus creating the hazing. Once it is dry it will be OK!
Sorry to hijack the thread, but it's related to the topic. When can you use the Reparation QD? Can I use it right after an application or do I have to wait for HB to bond?
Absolytely no need to use it right after application... you will just mess up BW and HB by doing so. The name "Reparation" should really be taken literally. It's meant to repair a damaged coating or to restore gloss and it's not needed after every wash. Personally I have nver used QD's for anything other than removing light dust from a car in the showroom really because that's really their only function. I've never used them as drying aids, or after every wash, etc. Personally I think it's a waste of product and I would rather see people use my products as they were intended to be used for rather than just "just let them keep using it as they've been doing, they will buy more." So again, it's meant to repair and replace lost gloss; HB and BW should not be damaged or lose gloss that quickly - Jesse
