What can you tell me about jeweling?

Discussion in 'Compounds, Polishes, Paint Cleaners, and Glazes' started by Chaseme, Oct 19, 2010.

  1. Chaseme

    Chaseme DB Forum Supporter

    What exactly is it, and what products, steps, and precautions should one take?
     
  2. domino

    domino Welcome to Detailing

    id like to know this too, and hopefully this will start a thread about it

    have you tried searching the forum yet though?

    afaik this is simply a play of words and is no different to using a finishing polish like 85RD at slow speed after you have fully corrected the paint...... there's most likely more to it than that
     
  3. richy

    richy Guest

    There's been lots written on this, you're right. To sum up, it's a last polish step using a fine pad and a very light compound like 85rd. Use slow speed (I'm talking on rotary which is what I use) and slow, slow passes. You need a product with a long working time. It makes the paint jump when you do this. Use a very soft mf to buff off.
     
  4. Chaseme

    Chaseme DB Forum Supporter

    Yeah; I tried searching; but besides people referring to it I haven't found too much. I keep hearing the term lately, so I assume it's kind of a newly coined term and/or a popular technique.

    I'm curious to hear what other members say regarding techniques and products.
     
  5. togwt

    togwt Nuba Guru

    Jewelling is a process of reducing applied pressure and machine speed in combination with a longer polishing time. It is really effective with a rotary polisher and a diminishing abrasive.

    As an optional step after finishing, done with a non-abrasive ultra soft pad (although you will want to use a little pressure at the beginning of the pass to help fracture the abrasives since the pad isn't providing abrasion) and an ultra fine finishing polish, for the removal of any microscopic pad abrasion, which also reduces the chance of holograms and will increase the gloss of the paint by a final polishing step, taking the finish from 95% to 99% +
    Typically the final step in surface polishing; using a finishing polish (Final Finish Polish / Super Finish 106FA) in tandem with a pad that has no abrasive abilities (CCS Black (80 PPI) Finishing foam

    To ensure the pads abrasive ability is used an increase in pressure is required. Most finishing polishes are formulated with lubricating oils, which enable a longer working time. By working the abrasives, so that only the finest particulates remain, these micro-fine abrasives will provide the highest obtainable gloss, without leaving any micro-marring of the paint surface.

    Spread a finishing polish using a non-abrasive, soft foam pad at 900-1000RPM and then increase to 1200-1500RPM reducing pressure, until the diminishing abrasive goes clear (somewhat similar to Vaseline®) and then make few passes at 800 / 900RPM using little to no pressure. (Flex 3401 using speed setting 3)
     
  6. Chaseme

    Chaseme DB Forum Supporter

    You mention this is done with a rotary - but can it be done with a PC, and what process would that be?
     
  7. Legacy99

    Legacy99 Wax on..Wax off

    I use Ultrafina and a rotary with a 3m blue pad. Spread at 1000rpm and then crank it up to 1800 rpm and reduce to 1000 with slow passes and no pressure to finish off.
     
  8. Danny

    Danny Nuba Guru

    I used 85RD with Blue CCS 5.5" pads using my PC but it was at speed 6 and 5.5. It did leave the finish great on my black Mustang GT after using M105 & M205, but nothing close to what one could achieve with a rotary. I didn't lower the speed because I figured it wouldn't yield any results seeing as the PC goes by opms not rpms.
     
  9. Wolfs Chemicals

    Wolfs Chemicals DB Certified Manufacturer

    The same kind of finish can be achieved with a DA as with a rotary, you just have to follow the same steps as in this post. Todd Helme also explained this method on a black Mustang he did with a DA some time back.

    Here's a technique that I've developed for Scholl S03+ on ceramic clear coats. I've also used this method with Wolf's WP-6H and it also works like a charm. It will remove most scratches, polish and finish all in one single step on MOST cerami-clears... VW/Audi being the exceptions because here in Europe their clears are extremely hard!! I'll call it the "Jesse method" :).

    After spreading the S03+ at 600 RPM I bumped it up to about 1,500-1,800 and worked in the polish (S03+ has a pretty good working time) with a pretty good amount of pressure (this will vary depending on the paint type). After I saw that the polish was starting to flash (you can see it turn from a milky color to almost clear) I stopped to clean the pad. CLEANING THE PAD AT THE RIGHT TIME IS THE KEY TO FINISHING 100% HOLOGRAM-FREE!!

    [​IMG]

    What the polish looked like just after being spread at 600

    [​IMG]

    This is what it looked like when I stopped, but it wasn't broken down well enough and you'll see why in the next pics.

    [​IMG]

    Before cleaning the pad

    [​IMG]

    After cleaning. Notice that there's still polish inside the pad. This means it's still got some medium cutting power. So, I went back for a few more passes.

    [​IMG]

    After a few more passes the polish was broken down properly and after cleaning the pad it looked like this:

    [​IMG]

    Now after you've cleaned the pad, you have to resume polishing at the same speed and pressure that you used before you cleaned it. Once you've made a couple of passes like that you can start to work your way down to the jeweling process.
    Here's what the polish looks like after being broken down properly:

    [​IMG]

    And here's what it looks like after being completely broken down and after numerous passes in the jeweling process:

    [​IMG]

    And here's what the Crime Light has to say about the whole process:

    [​IMG]

    Jesse wins, flawless victory!

    [​IMG]
     

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