Wet sanding tips

Discussion in 'Car Detailing Product Discussion' started by Ch40t1c, Dec 8, 2009.

  1. Ch40t1c

    Ch40t1c Obsessive Detailer

    Hey all. Was just about to start my first attempt at wetsanding on my tails and my headlights. Been doing a bunch of reading on it so I thought I'd give it a try. Any tips for me before I get started? I have 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sand paper.
     
  2. kustomizingkid

    kustomizingkid Nuba Guru

    For headlights and tail lights there is really nothing you can screw up.... Just sand the shit out of them!

    The main thing is you need to fully remove the 1000 marks with the 1500, if you don't you will have little deep marks left over... but this is really only a problem when you start with 400/600 grit.

    Lots of water...
     
  3. d00t

    d00t Welcome to Detailing

    Actually, you can. Head lights and tail lights are clear coated. So if you go super aggressive you WILL remove the clear coat, and cause premature failure (i.e. premature oxidation of the lights).

    But it won't be as apparent as if you were to strike through on clear coat on paint.
     
  4. kustomizingkid

    kustomizingkid Nuba Guru

    Most of the lights that I get that need wet sanding have had a complete failure of this coating... and they still look good and stay looking good after this coating has failed...
     
  5. Ch40t1c

    Ch40t1c Obsessive Detailer

    Good to know, I'll have to be careful on the headlights. Tails I'm re-CC'ing them after I'm finished.
     
  6. d00t

    d00t Welcome to Detailing

    It's just a warning. It will look good, yes. But expect them to fail again (and quicker than previously) as there is no UV protection now.
     
  7. richy

    richy Guest

    I bought a little black rubber block that I cut into a strip about 1/2 inch wide and left the rest. If I'm doing a little touch up spot, I'll use my little block. If I'm doing a bigger area, I use the rest of it. Do not use your fingers, not even enough. I will be posting an Altima I have to finish tomorrow where I wet sanded a ton of little spots on it from bug damage. keep an eye out for it. Here's a teaser:




    [​IMG]
     
  8. togwt

    togwt Nuba Guru

    Protect your expensive headlamps, before it's too late. LampGard™ uses a tough 40 mil thick, double-polished urethane material that is optically clear and applies (peel & stick) directly to the surface. This product has built-in ultraviolet inhibitors that help prevent the material from drying, hardening or discolouring. Custom die-cut to fit your specific vehicle for a precise, perfect fit, it comes with easy-to-follow instructions and applies to headlamps, fog lamps, turn indicators and parking lights (when applicable) to protect them from scratching, cracking and pitting. LampGard™
     
  9. GDAL

    GDAL Guest

    Is there a UV-protection coat that we can spray to the headlights after refinishing them?

    I know everyone recommends using a high quality sealant with UV protection.
     
  10. togwt

    togwt Nuba Guru

    (UV) Stabilizers (ultraviolet inhibitors)
    Are a group of chemical agents with the ability to counteract or neutralize the harmful effects of UV light? Competitive absorbers provide protection by converting UV light to heat so it can dissipate harmlessly. Other UV stabilizers work differently, but all UV stabilizers are consumed as they do their job. In a way, they serve as sacrificial molecules, taking the abuse from the UV light instead of the material they are protecting. Two important points:

    (1) Ultra violet (UV) protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) so it is imperative that you renew it or your surfaces will degrade.

    (2) UV stabilizers have to be periodically renewed or replenished if continuing protection is to be achieved, there is no such thing as a permanent UV stabilizer, it a matter of physics, not chemistry

    Providing protection from ultra violet radiation (UVR) is very important to avoid photo synthesis (colour fading) particularly in an open-air roadster/convertible (303™ Aerospace Protectant (pH 9.5) UVR protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) so it is imperative that you renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular 45 to 60 day basis (dependent upon location climatic condition)

    Application- use on a clean surface (there are no cleaning agents in this product) spray product onto a cloth and the surface to be protected should be wet, not just damp. Use a clean, dry cloth and agitate to ensure the protected surface is dry (this product does not air-dry) After application allow 60 minutes for product to cure, then using a 100% cotton cloth to lightly buff surface

    Streaking (No, not the kind you see at Rugby matches) ensures that you are not using too much product; a thin layer is all that's required. Be sure also that both your surface and the applicator is clean and has not become saturated. In general, a quick wipe down with a microfiber towel should remove the excess and eliminate it

    Alternative- Protect your expensive headlamps, before it's too late. LampGard™ uses a tough 40 mil thick, double-polished urethane material that is optically clear and applies (peel & stick) directly to the surface. This product has built-in ultraviolet inhibitors that help prevent the material from drying, hardening or discolouring. Custom die-cut to fit your specific vehicle for a precise, perfect fit, it comes with easy-to-follow instructions and applies to headlamps, fog lamps, turn indicators and parking lights (when applicable) to protect them from scratching, cracking and pitting. LampGard™
     

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