someone else tell me they've experienced this! its pretty much only my hood...but the whole thing just gets grey and hazy after a day a driving. I'm about to go and swissvax cleaner fluid the hood AGAIN and re apply mystery AGAIN so the hood looks normal. seriously anyone else experience this? Help?
Asphalt Rocket was/ is having the same exact problem, with Mystery and on the hood. Might be from using too much wax. I dont know if he drove his car after applying it, but I wouldnt be surprised if the heat from the engine bay heating up the hood has something to do with it. Id use the cleaner fluid again, then reapply Mystery and make sure its a super thin coat.
What polishes are you using before the application of the wax? I wouldn't be suprised if the hazing is left from the final step of polishing...
Hoods seem to be problematic with me too. I got a tip that might work for you too? Clean and re-wax the area, then take MF and run it under the hottest water you can stand, wring it out and buff the area. Follow up with a dry MF. Repeat as necessary and see if that doesn't take care of most of the problem. HTH
I've found that a way to avoid this is by applying a thin layer, buff and then go buff with a cold water spritz a few hrs later. I like to use FG.
Yes, Mystery and I do not get along on the hood of my Vette. It is not from the heat of the engine, always wax in the garage a day after being washed or polished. I believe it is from putting a little too much on and the high nuba count. I have adjusted how much is applied and it seems to be out so far. I would agree with Lance's remedy or use a QD.
just cleaner fluid'd the whole hood after an Adam's Detail Spray wipe down (washed earlier today and pulled in the garage) rotary speed 1-black CCS glazing pad hood back to clear checked under halogens-perfect applied the THINEST coat of mystery ever seen! awaiting my 15 minute dry time...... HOPING THIS FIXES IT! THANKS FOR THE TIPS GUYS!
sucks but i guess that having a high performance engine...maybe i can get an upgraded heat pad for my hood?
Forgot to mention that that works for me too. I keep the distilled water in the fridge. A bit of a "hybrid" technique is to spritz the water on the hazed wax before buffing, then again after buffing. Wonder if the newer paint formulations are a contributing factor? I have this issue on my Porsche, so I know it's not engine heat:shead: I was thinking that it might be due to the fact that the hood is aluminum? In any case, it's very frustrating
this is the famous wax sweating. its caused when the wax starts to cure and harden, the oils evaporate to the top causing that hazy look. The cold water or qd helps remove the oils and well as level the wax giving it a great shine. I have heard the reason only the higher end waxes do it is because they use oils instead of solvents to soften the wax. Sovlent evaporate no problem but oils require alittle more help. a quick wipedown a few hours latr or a wash after a few days should solce the problem
I've had the same issue with some of the waxes that I've used. Best thing is to either let it sit for another hour, then wipe down or perpaps with a QD or some AW...
hey you might be on to something... seeing as the only part of my car that hazes is the hood, and my hood is the only part of my car that is aluminum.... you think guys?
Calgary got it right on. I have had the Vintage do this to me. Only problem is it usually happens after I drive it and it is in the sun but after driving it I cannot wipe it down until it is washed. One of the reasons I switched to Zaino years ago. I am playing around with QD'ing after waxing in hopes of eliminating it. I am also going to try to find a time when I can pull it out and bake it without getting too much dust on it.
Hazing (Wax / Polymer Sealant): Smearing or a dull look to the paint film surface after removing residue usually occurs when there is an excess of product applied in high humidity conditions and moisture is trapped between the fast drying top layer and the lower layer of the hydroscopic wax. The paint films surface temperature being cooler than the outside air accelerates this process by allowing the top layer of wax to harden before the lower level. To avoid this allow more time for the wax to completely set-up (dry) before removal. Alternatively when the wax starts to set-up, the oils or solvents permeate to the top causing a hazy look. The solvents will outgas given time, but oil requires that you wipe them off. Spray the surface with cold distilled water, the excess wax will adhere to the water droplets and can then be wiped away with 100% cotton micro fibre towel. This has a two-fold effect; it removes the oils and will enhance the gloss of the wax.
A good description of the 'Sweating' phenomenon.However,to my knowledge the word'Hydroscopic' does not appear in any dictionary. Carnauba wax is inherently 'Hygroscopic',in that it has a natural tendancy to retain moisture/oil(fatty acids),and then 'sweat' out the excess once the wax film has hardened.
