I am in the process of correcting a 2011 Mustang 5.0 thats really swirled up bad from the dealerships bodyshop. It was in an accident and the dealership put so many swirls in the finish. Well the problem I am having is that even with M105 paired with yellow Ubers in both 5.5" and 4" its taking forever to correct. Not only that its is hot and M105 is making the Makita hop on the finish. I am only going up to 1500 rpm. I have mixed some M105 with Mothers Professional Compound and its working ok. I am currently using some M105 and 203S together and the buffer hop is stopping when using the 4" pad but still hops a little when I am using the 5.5" yellow Uber. It is taking forever to correct since the clear is so damn hard. Its even harder than my new Mercedes ML 350's. I have been at it since around 9:30 am and took a 2.5 hour break and I have only corrected the hood, the left fender, the right fender and the front bumper. I am on the left door right now. I was using the PCXP on speed 6 with the 4" yellow uber but it just wont take the swirls out. Its like the PCXP is useless. Any suggestions on what I can try out or what products have a better cut. I know Powergloss does but do you guys think it will stop the hopping. I might overnight some different pads and a better compound. Any suggestions would be great. I still need to go over it with 203s and green ubers then 85rd and a blue ubers.:shakehead:
I have a 2011 Mustang V6 Pony Package and i know exactly what you mean. The clear is so hard to correct, which makes the fact that its black worse:shakehead:
Sucks that you have to deal with that. I have a 2004 black Mustang GT and the clear is pretty hard but its is not as hard as the new ones these are like polishing stones. Anyone else?
Danny, either use a lot of downward force or better yet, get yourself some wool pads. Wool+105=greatness.
Which wool pad do you suggest and what size? I am hoping I can get this locally because I am hoping to get the compounding done by tomorrow. I have a sherwin williams automotive paint supply here and another automotive paint supply shop that sell a 3M perfect it or finesse it wool pad but its 8" not sure if thats overkill? here are a few pics of how its coming along Before After
I think 3M might make a 5" wool. Megs has their 5 or 6" burgandy wool, but I'm not sure you could get that locally. I have a few old 2 sided, 8" white 3M wool pads. They are very aggressive and not easy in tight areas. LCC purple foamed wool is OK, but not as aggressive as the 3M or Megs. I haven't tried the Tuff Buff ones yet, but I'd like to. If time is an issue, you'll have to go with what you can find locally, which may only be your 3M. It will do the job and will be the "big gun" in your arsenal.
Richy I went to a local automotive paint supply shop that has some good 3M polishes and other products. I bought a 3M Superbuff III 2 plus 2 wool pad its 9" though, but it works amazing with M105. I think it finish down just as nice as the Yellow uber. I knocked out the roof in a few minutes with it and buffer hop is minimal not only that the surfaces stay alot cooler than when I was polishing with the Uber yellow. I am glad I purchased it. It ended up costing me like $32 because I needed the 3M spacer adapter for it to use on the Makita but it works great. Thanks for the tip man
I also have one of those huge wool pads, and i just recently discovered that i do lol... But now i use it ALL the time because the yellow pads do not cut as well and as fast, not to mention the temperature that the yellow pads get. Mine is made my presta. its either 8 or 9 inch and its black. Honestly fantastic, but hard to use in the tight areas. Still it wont finish down as nice as the yellow pads, so if you wanna 2 step, then wipe down with IPA and then go over it with a green pad and 205.
Nice the work great this 3M Superbuff III 2 plus 2 wool pad finishes down with M105 just as nice as the Uber yellow pads with M105, no joke. I am actually doing a 3 stage so my next step is 203S and Green Uber pads then 85RD with Blue Ubers. As for IPA I am using a 90/10 IPA/ Dawn mixture 70% IPA with Dawn it works great on hard clears and to endure a clean slate for any sealant or wax or nano coating like Cquartz, C1, or Opti-coat.
Danny, the 2 sided 3M white wool pads are old dinosaur technology (that's what I cut my teeth with), but having said that...they work! And, yes, if you don't use too much product and ease up on the pressure at the end, you can finish down pretty darn well. You still need to follow it with a mild compound, but it will do a great job. I'm glad it worked for you. I don't know why more young guys don't use wool. It has so many advantages. Glad to see it's working well for you.
Richy what wool pads do you suggest I invest in for the future? The guy at the automotive paint store told me that the 3M Superbuff III wool pad is a new one that came out, I guess its really not that new.
Danny, I copied the response from the PM I answered for you. (Too lazy to type it again, LOL) Danny, I can tell you what I have and what works for me. The mildest one is the PFW by LCC (which you can also get in a 3" pad too!!). Next step up is the burgandy wool by Megs. I have yet to try the Tuff Buff but want to. It is as strong as the white 3M wool but comes in a smaller, easier to use size. You should have a selection of wool just like you do your foam pads. I have used the 3M wool with a finishing polish with great results sometimes too. It just gives you more options when the paint is not co-operating with anything you throw at it
Richy if I knew how fast they will do the job, I would have used it from the beginning. Now I would just like to get a smaller wool pad from DI My main use for wool has been after wet sanding. I wet sand by hand, and wool cleans everything up real fast.
It sure does! You can get a pfw in like a 3" size. I'm trying to remember, but you might be able to get a small size in the tuff buffs too. I don't own any but will buy some at some point just to add to the collection. Maybe I'll see if I can trade for some?