Valugard Step C replacement?

Guys,

I'm thinking about getting the Valugard decon kit, but I really don't wanna get step C because I have enough wash soaps in my arsenal.

Which one of these soaps is a good replacement for step C?

Meg's Gold Class
Zaino
Duragloss 901
CG's CWC
CG's CWG
ONR

 

Dg 901/902.....:thumb:

 

Any one you want except ONR only because these soaps are neutral detergent, and ONR(AFAIK) is not a detergent based cleaner.

If those are all that you have, take your pick. If you are thinking of one I would go with CWC because it rinses so clean.

 

Yo G

The A and B step are gonna strip the paint clean, so step C doesn't have to be an extremely strong cleaner. Don't get the CG CWG, because it has glossing agents in it that you don't want on the paint if you just cleaned it, same with ONR and 901. I would say CG CWC, since that definitely doesn't have glossing agent in it, and can be used pretty efficiently through a foam gun if you ever pick one up. :thumb:

 

What's going on bobby?

LOL ... my collection has grown a lot since I moved here. I currently own those washes and I also got a foam gun. I'm planning on detailing my brother in law's Pathfinder. It's white and full of rail dust.

 

What about if I want to clay the car? should I clay it before the decon wash or after the B step?

 

You have a couple choices.

For example the FK decon system IMO is a bit better(STEP 1) at getting anything tar or road sticky junky stuff off. The Valugard system a couple times required me to clay again following the rounds.

If you have tons of sap non metallic, non tar - I think both decon systems may require some claying or other removal.

You use step one to remove protection and technically any tar or sap. That however isnt always the case.

The second step is the acid step that dissolves the metallic crap. I think you should clay DURING step 2 seeing as the acid will be dwelling anyway. That way you have your required agitation as well as removing other crap the clay will get.

Then do a quick Step 3 with the soap of your choice and youre good to go.

Otherwise many people will clay just to get the leftovers, after the 3rd step.

I like to wash with soap, then clay, the start on step 1 --2 claying lightly during --3 then final rinse and clay again.. but i am always excessive.

 

Thanks for the advice guys!!

Getcha ... that's a lot of freakin' claying ... lol. The 1st car I'm trying to decon is a white Pathfinder. I can't clay that big truck that often ... lol

 

post up the results of the system if you decide to get it. I have been thinking about getting it as well but would like to see it in action.

 

I will :thumb:

 

Like I said, I am excessive:thumb:

Keeping in mind that Step 2 requires agitation while it dwells, you could evalute the surface, clay beforehand for above surface contamination but while step 2 dwells you can use the clay as the agitation media as you go.

Either that or just clay after step 3. There really wont be much left to clay off if anything after step 3.

 

Damn, sounds like that new jobs working out! We actually just bought a new house too, but it's still in Bethlehem, good news is that I get a full garage and a big driveway to work in so I'm very happy, you'll have to visit sometime. I was diagnosed with ADD today too, guess that explains a lot haha.

As for claying, clay after step 2. Anything left is going to come off like nothing since it'll be softened up from the A and B step, rinse off the B step but leave the car wet, preferably in a shady area. The clay grabs a lot less but still picks up the contamination, and you use less QD. Then the final wash(C) should go silky smooth, the car will be completely clean, and your clay bars are going to last you a lot longer than they would if you clayed before the decon.

IMO I wouldn't clay during the B step because 1) I don't know how the acid would affect the clay bar, and 2) it would probably leave an excessive dwell time on the B step. I haven't tried it though, but that's just my guess.

 

[IMO I wouldn't clay during the B step because 1) I don't know how the acid would affect the clay bar, and 2) it would probably leave an excessive dwell time on the B step. I haven't tried it though, but that's just my guess. ]

I always clay when using B, but the acid will start to dissolve the clay, so once used like this its toast

 

Gianni, good to see you back on here man. I plan on using optimum wash soap with my decon kit. When roger and me deconned my GTI at the meet, we used rogers autoglym shampoo which was nice also. But being as that optimum soap is my favorite, its even better that its safe to use as a C decon step. The stuff smells great and is silky smooth.

Hope all is well man.

 

Thanks Jon

Is there any advantage to claying during the B step, rather than immediately after? I'm kinda cheap, I like to get the most life out of my clay bars as I can(to a safe for the paint point).

 

No its just the way I do it, but thinking about its probably better to rinse off the acid (this step shouldn’t be allowed to dry on the paint surface)and clay with a surface lubricant. Thanks for getting my brain into ‘analysis mode’ I'll change the methodology-Thanks again

 

Hey, no problem! I'm glad I can at least give a tiny bit back to a person who has given me such extensive amounts of helpful information with detailing. Cheers :thumb:

 

My brother is living like 5 minutes from your old place. I'll give you a holla next time I'm around the area.

I totally agree with you with claying on step 2 ... I wouldn't do it unless the car is really small and I had extra clays to spare. Check your PM's buddy!

 

That's for the advice Billy. Any pointers regarding the decon steps? I know Roger took his time with your car and it came out great. Hope everything is well with you bro.

 

follow the directions on the bottles. I do step one with a sheepskin mitt, and mix the solution with distilled water.

i do step 2 using one of the square/rectangle shaped MF applicators.

step 3 i use a pH neutral soap, like autoglym or pinnacle.