Valugard Paint contaminaton System Set up and Use

Discussion in 'Pre Wash, Wash, Decon, Claying, Engine, Wheels, an' started by Esienmann_M6, May 8, 2008.

  1. Esienmann_M6

    Esienmann_M6 Two Bucket System Washer

    Hi everyone,
    I bought the step 1 and 2 of the paint contamination system after seeing
    Al-53 and togwt both knowledgeable members

    I am thinking of washing the car first like I always do with foam canon and then the washing
    process, moving from there to the Valugard system,

    How do you guys use them? do use spray bottles with the valugard step 1 or do you
    mix it in the washing bucket and use a clean wash mitt? I know I have to leave it
    after this step for 30 minutes or so for the product to work, I have some dried up wax
    around the paint protection film so is it ok to use a Q-tip to try to remove it while
    the car is has the step 1 on it?
    is step 1 safe on glass and would it work remove bonded stuff to the windshield?
    just trying to know how strong is step 1.

    Step2 I am guessing is the same process as step 1?

    As for Step 3 I heard it is basically a PH car soap and I guess Adams car wash can replace since it is also PH balanced?

    Any info regarding the proper use of the product would be greatly appreciated
     
  2. togwt

    togwt Nuba Guru

    Paint Decontamination and Acid Neutralization System

    A sound understanding of the proper technique and the correct process will produce excellent results even with a mediocre product. A quality product used without the proper surface preparation or application technique will never obtain a satisfactory result. Using the proper methodology (surface preparation, using a quality product, along with the correct application technique) will ensure an excellent result.
    Some methods described may be beyond the capabilities of the average detailer or enthusiast; in this case we strongly encourage the reader to consult a professional detailer or body shop concerning the matters discussed herein.

    The writer assumes no responsibility, expressed or implied, due to misuse or misinterpretation of the information or methods used, or for any vehicle damage or injury that may occur due to the suggestions and information offered.

    Proceed with this in mind; the products you use constitute a very small factor in the equation. Methodology and technique constitute 95%; the reasoning behind the choice of quality products is to eliminate any limiting factors, thus enabling you to place emphasis on technique used.
    Studies by vehicle manufactures and OEM paint suppliers have shown that failure to remove environmental contaminants from a paint film surface can cause premature degradation of the paint system. While clay products are useful for overspray, they cannot deep clean the surface and pores of the paint. This can only be accomplished with a thorough chemical decontamination system.

    Detailer’s clay
    Is formulated to remove surface contaminates from the paints, it contains abrasives (i.e. silica sand, calcium carbonate, alumina, ceramics, quartz, or silicon carbide) in an applicator (the malleable clay bar) the clay lubricant is doing the same thing for the clay's abrasives as the oils in a polish, which is providing surface lubrication.
    Contrary to popular belief it does not pull the metallic particles from the paint surface. The abrasives 'shear' the surface contaminates, the sheared particles are then encapsulated by the clay (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest imbedded in the paint, which acts as a conduit for moisture to the various paint layers, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage) While clay products are useful for overspray, they cannot deep clean the surface and pores of the paint. This can only be accomplished through a thorough chemical cleaning.

    There is no wax, natural or synthetic, or any chemical treatment that can prevent or protect against this contamination. Compounding with an abrasive polish may remove paint contamination but it can only be performed a few times before removing too much of the top, clear coat finish.
    Auto International’s Paint Neutralization System is a three step neutralization and wash system formulated to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, hard water deposits, acid rain residue and other forms of pollutants.

    Benefits:
    Leaves paint surface uncontaminated for application of wax, polish or sealant. Allows for correct repair of superficial paint damage, reduces buff time on pre-owned vehicles.

    Signs of Paint Surface Contamination-
    •Dark coloured specks
    •Brown or Orange (rust) coloured stains or specks
    •Yellow stains
    •Small metal coloured flecks
    •Rough texture
    •‘Water spots’ or marks
    •Surface etching
    •Oxidation

    Application Directions
    Three simple wash steps, no rubbing; see product containers for more details or visit the web site.
    System comprises:

    1.A is an acid neutralizer that removes waxes, storage stains and neutralizes acid deposits, a solution of an 8:1 concentrate /clean water , allow to dwell for 5-7 minutes before rinsing.

    2.B is an alkaline neutralizer that is a blend of acids, which deep cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits and safely dissolves the ferrous metal particles bond with the paint so that they can be rinsed away. Allow product to dwell for 5-7 minutes, works well with detailer’s clay to remove contaminants. All necessary safety precautions should be taken whilst using this product

    3.C is a pH 7.0 surface conditioner a 128:1 concentrate vehicle wash and the third step in the neutralization process, which ensures any chemical residues, are neutralized and rinsed away.

    Use separate wash mitt for products A and C, the use of the ValuGard Dispenser trigger spray container for products will ensure correct mix ratio and maximum economy
    Automotive paint is porous, by using an acid solution (A) on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded, the acid / water is subjected to an exothermic reaction (heat is evolved when water and acid mix together), which means it agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be encapsulated by detailer’s clay (as opposed to being sheared off, by abrasion) The neutralizer (B) then enters the subsurface of the paint film and neutralizes any caustic compounds generated by ferrous particles that have penetrated paint film.

    Methodology:
    •Completly rinse vehicle top to bottom.
    •Remove excess soil.
    •Be certain vehicle surfaces are cool to the touch.

    (A) Acid Neutralizer
    •Mix acid neutralizer- 16 ounces of product to each gallon of water.
    •If you are using a proportioner, simply dispense 1/2 gallon of solution into bucket. •Using a dedicated wash mitt, thoroughly wash vehicle with solution top to bottom.
    •Allow to dwell 5-7minutes.
    •Do not allow solution to dry on vehicle

    Rinse/Dry
    •Rinse vehicle thoroughly top to bottom.
    •Using a waffle-weave towel, dry horizontal surfaces •If rinse water continues to ’Bead’ repeat Step 2.

    (B) Alkaline Neutralizer •Using a clean dry sponge or wax applicator pad, apply Alkaline Neutralizer to all paint surfaces including roof, hood, deck lid, and the tops of the fenders and quarters.
    •Allow to dwell 5-7 minutes.
    •Do not allow solution to dry on vehicle

    Rinse/Inspect
    •Rinse thoroughly.
    •Visually and manually (by touch) inspect for complete removal.
    •Repeat Step 4 if necessary.

    C) Detail Wash (pH 7.0 Surface Conditioner)
    •Mix Detail Wash-One part product to 128 parts water (i.e. one ounce of product to each gallon of water). •Wash entire vehicle using a clean dedicated wash mitt from top to bottom, including the glass, bumpers, etc.

    Rinse/Dry •Rinse and dry thoroughly.

    Notes:
    1. Always: Wear gloves and eye protection
    2. Use separate buckets and wash mitts for Acid Neutralizer and Detail Wash
    3. Never: Use on hot surfaces or in direct sun light 4.Ingest chemical products 5.Allow products to dwell longer than 7 minutes

    * Tech Tips
    1. Always use separate wash mitt for products "A" and "C".
    2. The use of the ValuGard Dispenser system for products "A" and "C" will ensure correct mix ratio and maximum economy.
    3. Other prep or reconditioning operations should be performed during product dwell times for best use of labour time.


    Kit Contents (will treat ten to fifteen vehicles) [1]
    •One Gallon of Acid Neutralizer /Product A
    •One Gallon of Alkaline Neutralizer /Product B
    •One Gallon of Detail Wash /Product C
    •Two 9x9 Wash Mitts
    •One 12 oz. Dispenser Bottle for Product B
    •Product B application pad / Part #VG-IS
    •MSDS for each of the products.
    •Instructions for use.


    Information resource-

    1.Automotive International (AI) - Automotive International > Home
    2.“Automotive Detailing Inside & Out, A Knowledge Base for the Perfectionist"– by Jon Miller


    © TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2008, all rights reserved

    This is one of is one of a series of unbiased and informative, knowledge based, subject specific articles, which are dedicated to the automotive detailing enthusiast or professional detailer in search of development and further education

    Copyright and intellectual property rights-© This work is registered with the UK Copyright Service All original material is copyright, unless otherwise stated, and may be copied and distributed for non-commercial purposes only provided that you retain all copyright and other proprietary notices contained in the original material and a reference to © TOGWT ™ is included, any unauthorized use of these materials may violate copyrights and/or trademarks
     
  3. MadOzodi

    MadOzodi Nuba Guru

    Thanks for the step by step togwt. You may want to edit that link before publishing.
     
  4. yukonon22

    yukonon22 Wax on..Wax off

    where can i buy this?
     
  5. gmblack3

    gmblack3 Top 9 detailer in the US to serve you in Atlanta

  6. togwt

    togwt Nuba Guru

    THANKS (corrected)
     
  7. MadOzodi

    MadOzodi Nuba Guru

    Printing out the instructions togwt...gonna give this a shot today!
     
  8. FMINUS

    FMINUS DB Pro Supporter

    Speaking of publishing..... when you book ready? Last I heard it was supposed to be Oct of 2007!
     
  9. MadOzodi

    MadOzodi Nuba Guru

    Wow...that's one effective wash. The paint on my mustang is in much worse shape than I thought after using it. Let's just say that the paint is closer to gray now than the original black.

    Oh, and Ford doesn't know how to match paint. Grr
     
  10. yukonon22

    yukonon22 Wax on..Wax off

    im confused is that a good thing?
     
  11. MadOzodi

    MadOzodi Nuba Guru

    Yes. Sorry for not including pics...I was more concerned about doing the process right for the first time. I now have a much better idea of how to attack the paint.
     
  12. togwt

    togwt Nuba Guru

    The problem with being a perfectionist and wanting to have the most up to date info available

    One day your prints will come ;)
     
  13. Esienmann_M6

    Esienmann_M6 Two Bucket System Washer

    togwt
    Thanks for the info, good luck with the book! looking forward to it

    Just wondering about this statment,
    (B) Alkaline Neutralizer
    Using a clean dry sponge or wax applicator pad, apply Alkaline Neutralizer to all horizontal surfaces including roof, hood, deck lid, and the tops of the fenders and quarters.
    Allow to dwell 5-7 minutes.
    Do not allow solution to dry on vehicle

    Why only on horizontal surfaces?
    so doors and fenders should not be touched with product B?
    why not if yes?
     
  14. togwt

    togwt Nuba Guru

    S/B All surfaces :sorry:

    I was thinking of 'clay all horizontal surfaces' (went too long without a caffeine break)
    I am thnkful to DB for proof reading and for spell check :yikes:
     
  15. MadOzodi

    MadOzodi Nuba Guru

    Hey, free editors can't be all that bad :p

    We're just waiting patiently for the final publishing :thumb:
     
  16. Esienmann_M6

    Esienmann_M6 Two Bucket System Washer

    No it is not you!
    If I am not mistaken I have seen the same thing on the product bottle itself!
     
  17. MadOzodi

    MadOzodi Nuba Guru

    Esienmann, I can't stress the paint needing to be cool and either of the product not drying. I allowed both steps to dry, not intentionally, and only polishing has brought back the color.

    When they tell you not to rub B, they mean it! Kinda hard not to do when applying, but when you feel your applicator start to grab, squirt more product. I ordered the kit which included a squeeze bottle.

    Just some thoughts from a first-time user that probably didn't do things right the first time. Also, if you have a pressure washer, use it to rinse cuz both products don't come off easy. Well, they didn't for me at least.

    GL! Definitely worth the money as the paint is smooooooth (and squeaky) when you're finished.
     
  18. richy

    richy Guest


    Thanks for your tips on using this product!
     
  19. Al-53

    Al-53 Welcome to Detailing

    yes..paint has to be cool..and in the shade if you can do so....it was made for car companies to do a prep wash before delivery...you have to keep the paint wet....

    when I do a car I do it either early morning when its cool and shady..or early evening when sun is setting and shady.....I cool the paint with cold water and wipe down after to ensure cool paint....

    step 2 use the bottle and just lay a coating of the solution on I use a half grout sponge also...makes it easy....they do give you a sponge type applicator now ..but do not know what its like...I guess it comes in a kit now..when I ordered I just ordered the gallons of product....

    I called ketch when it arrived and he told me the right way to use it...COOL PAINT...

    I will be doing my truck soon with it.....again

    AL
     
  20. MadOzodi

    MadOzodi Nuba Guru

    No problem...it's a bit disconcerting to see what is essentially acid etching in your clear coat after step A. Then after step B, it's further disconcerting to see where you rubbed and weren't supposed to.

    I'm actually polishing my car now. SIP is finishing of REALLY well today. Took me a panel or two to get in my head that less is more with this stuff.

    I think early morning in the shade would be the best time to do this wash.

    YMMV
     

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