Using a High-Speed Rotary Polisher Recommended Products In the interest of full disclosure, I am in no way affiliated with, employed by, have any vested interest, or in any way receive compensation from the sale or distribution of the product lines reviewed or the company that manufactures or markets it. Results Obtained These articles are not intended to warrant or guarantee any results with any of the products mentioned. No endorsement of companies or their products mentioned is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar companies or their products not mentioned. The author does not provide, nor guarantee and is not responsible or liable for any third-party products or services. Brand, product and company names used throughout these articles are trademarks of their respective companies and are used for product identification purposes only. Proper Technique A sound understanding of the proper technique and the correct process will produce excellent results even with a mediocre product. A quality product used without the proper surface preparation or application technique will never obtain a satisfactory result. Using the proper methodology (surface preparation, using a quality product, along with the correct application technique) will ensure an excellent result. Skill Level / Experience Some methods described may be beyond the capabilities of the average detailer or enthusiast; in this case we strongly encourage the reader to consult a professional detailer or body shop concerning the matters discussed herein. Liability The writer assumes no responsibility, expressed or implied, due to misuse or misinterpretation of the information or methods used, or for any vehicle damage or injury that may occur due to the suggestions and information offered. Product Quality and Technique Proceed with this in mind; the products you use constitute a very small factor in the equation. Methodology and technique constitute 95%; the reasoning behind the choice of quality products is to eliminate any limiting factors, thus enabling you to place emphasis on technique used. There is no `one correct way' to apply a product; the way detailing products are customized are what each individual finds give them their desired results. Aesthetics The aesthetics- of a vehicles appearance is very subjective to say the least, the only best wax or sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you. In the final analysis it all come down to; 85% preparation, 5% product, 7% application methodology and the balance is in the ‘guy’ of the beholder Research Research others opinions and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information not marketing hype or brand loyalty. I have always thought that the more facts and information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? Detailing products Should work on their real merits, not ‘smoke and mirrors'. Proceed with this in mind; the products you use constitute a very small factor in the equation. Methodology and technique constitute 95%; the reasoning behind the choice of quality products is to eliminate any limiting factors, thus enabling you to place emphasis on technique used. Most importantly - choose carefully whose advice you listen to, and more importantly what advice you act upon, so I would strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you. Porter-Cable's powerful polisher is the big brother to the outstanding 7336SP. The 7428 is a variable speed circular (rotary) polisher. It boasts features such as a speed-limiting dial wheel, variable-speed trigger, lock-on switch, and a hook and loop backing plate. The speed-limiting dial wheel and the variable-speed trigger work together for maximum control and flexibility, simply set your upper-limit and pull the trigger, you can then control the actual speed just by increasing or decreasing pressure on the trigger. No need to worry about going faster than you'd like. A high-speed polisher is one of the most effective and versatile and tools, it can eliminate myriad flaws in a paint finish, putting the finishing touch on a paint repair and produce a ‘new car’ flawless shine This is a rotary polisher for the skilled enthusiast or professional detailer, using the high speed and heat to enable compounds to abrade the paint film surface that require more power /speed than an random orbital buffer could provide. It is not unusual for a detailer to use a high-speed machine to compound a vehicle and then switch to a dual action, random orbital machine (Porter Cable TM 7336) to apply a pre-wax cleaner, a wax or sealant. The (10 amp) motor works effortlessly for high speed polishing and the entire unit weighs only 6.5 lbs. The user selectable speed can be adjusted from 0-3,000 rpm, which maintains a constant speed even under load conditions. A large wrap around handle provides excellent two-hand control for working over edges or into tight corners. A spindle lock built into the polisher makes changing pads safe and easy. I have resisted writing a guide for the use of a high-speed polisher in the past because they can remove and/or burn paint and create swirl and buffer marks if used improperly. A high-speed polisher actually removes the swirl by removing the layer of paint down to the lowest point of the swirl. With a little patience, practice and common sense, an enthusiast can master the skill needed to create a swirl-free, mirror bright finish. Staying within the speed range of 600 – 1,200 rpm, providing you are careful not to hold the pad in one place for too long, and paying attention when you come to the `edge' of a panel or a body contour it will not cause any damage or paint burn. Staying within this speed range it's pretty much idiot-proof (I can use it, what does that tell you) Circular polishers like this are typically used to compound, level, and polish and remove swirls. Because it's a direct drive tool, it is dramatically more capable of removing small paint particles. They are not used to apply wax or sealant/protectants (although some waxes, sealants and protectants can be applied with a high speed machine). When applying a compound and polish, I have found most products work best in the 600 to 1,100 rpm speed range. This is a very safe speed range to stay within, able to remove most swirls and paint defects in this speed range and will not create swirls or burn the paint. Experimenting with different products is initially more suitable for an experienced detailer, that's why I've been very specific by naming products, machine speed, along with an application methodology. Following the methodology, using the foam pads and machine polish at the speeds indicated will not damage your paint film surface (as long as you don't drop the machine onto the vehicle) and will give you satifactory results. With experience by all means experiment with different speeds, products etc, that's half the fun of it Environmental climate, paint type, hardness, or conversely how soft it is, its colour and its condition will all affect the outcome. If your initial experience is not all you would have expected, experiment by making a small change (the factors involved are; foam pad composition, whether used wet or dry, grade of machine polish and machine speed/pressure used) Any one of these factors can make a difference, just remember small changes. Advantages of Flexible, Urethane Backing Plates •The Velcro material is moulded into the plate eliminating delaminating. •The flexible edge reduces spontaneous heat build-up when transitioning from flat to contoured surfaces. •Vastly reduced heat transfer keeps motor heat from being transferred to the paint surface. •Due to their lighter weight less torque is required from the machine •Plated steel threaded insert will not cross-thread. •Reinforced inner construction uses steel struts moulded into the centre hub for superior strength. •Bevelled outer edge allows easy pad removal and replacement. Foam Pads A flat pad- provides an even pressure so it will takes more pressure to stop the random orbital buffers motor, so the finish is more even. They also produce a ‘feeling’ for the surface that you can gauge better than the variable contact pads, this style pad is best for medium polishing and finishing work. A constant pressure foam pad- this is essentially a flat pad which uses a patented technology layer of engineered, instant rebound foam between the pad and the backing plate to absorb off-axis movements while keeping the pressure of the pad on the surface constant. It allows even beginners to achieve professional-like results, the curved 6- inch pads outer edge makes transitioning seams and uneven panel breaks easier and the concave "dish" in the centre of the pad reduces product splatter, and gives the operator greater pad control. They are very easy to control, and forgiving of less-than-perfect technique. A curved edge foam pad- is ideal for working in tight spaces or a surface with lots of curves. Apply the polish to the outer edge of the pad and the PC can be used at more of an angle, the PC generates very little heat so this application method can be used safely, it’s halfway between a flat and VC pad with surface contact. This pad can also be used flat, apply more polish on the peak between the curve and recess, utilizing it like this assimilates a variable contact pad. A variable contact foam pad- provides focused pressure on a reduced surface contact area using the edges of the pad, making this pad ideal for machine polishing. Be aware that increased surface pressure may cause a PC motor to stall. Variable contact pads are more suitable for use with a high-speed rotary polisher Tufted foam pad-are made from pre-polymer foam with a 50% open cell structure. This 7.5-inch pad has nine- times the surface area of a flat pad. This dissipates heat, spreads polish over a larger area and reduces polish build-up. This pad is ideal for large surface area polishing, such as the removal of oxidation. Contoured Edge pad- these 7.5-inch pads have a graduated, concave polish pocket similar to the variable contact foam pads, but with a contoured edge and a recessed area for the backing plate. These pads have four distinct working surfaces (1) flat for polishing (2) they can be ‘lifted’ using the outer 1/3rd of the pad for areas that are tight (3)The outer edge of the pad can be used for seams or corners (4) the underside can be used for polishing around mirrors, badges, emblems or other thigh areas. A high-speed rotary has a cutting radius that varies from zero at the centre, increasing out to the edge, so the larger pads have more abrasion abilities. The foam pad is attached to the machine with a Velcro backing plate; product is then applied to the foam pad. Clean foam pads soon after use, if left saturated for extended periods of time the chemicals used in polish will cause the foam to deteriorate. Between wool and foam pads, in general, wool pads are considered "cutting" in nature. That is, the fibres of the wool pad "cut" into the paint, removing top layers of paint much more rapidly than foam pads, which do a relatively small amount of cutting but instead rely on greater heat build-up to do their work. (For care see Section 18-5) Compound/ Cutting Pad (*Yellow)-a harder more dense foam composition with an abrasive cutting action, for use with a medium abrasive polish, Machine Polish 1 or 2, Swirl Mark Remover, or Autoglym Paint Renovator Polish (Speed number 4-5) Polish / Light Cutting Pad (*Orange)-a mid range, high density foam composition with a medium abrasive cutting action, for use with a Swirl Mark Remover, Pre-Wax Paint Cleaner, Klasse All-In-One, or Autoglym Super Resin Polish (Speed number 4) Polish / Waxing Pad (*White)-a softer less dense foam composition with a light abrasive cutting action, for use with a Swirl Mark Remover, Pre-Wax Paint Cleaner, Klasse All-In-One, or Autoglym Super Resin Polish (Speed number 4) Finishing Pad (*Gray)-an ultra-smooth foam that has no abrasive cutting ability, for use with Klasse High Sealant Gloss, Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection, Zanio Z-2 or Z-5 or a Glaze (Speed number 3) Wool Pads: •4 Ply 100% Twisted Wool- each strand of high grade wool fibre is tightly twisted, allowing our pad to stay at a consistent level of aggression for longer periods of operation. Choose 3 inch, 4inch, and 5inch diameters with a 1/2inch or 3/4inch pile height. • Choose shorter pile for your most aggressive compounding and longer pile for aggressive compounding with greater durability. •50/50 Wool Acrylic - a unique fibre combination for light compounding comprised of 50% 4 ply twisted wool and 50% single strand wool/acrylic blend. Allows the operator to accomplish a range of light compounding to heavier polishing tasks depending on the compound or polish used. •Electrified White Sheepskin- the electrification process removes the microscopic barbs from the hairs in the wool resulting in a soft and effective compounding material that does not scratch the painted surface. Choose 3 inch, 4inch, and 5inch diameters with a 1/2inch or 3/4inch pile height. •Purple Foam / Wool Pad - Lake Counties (LC) patented process encapsulates the base of the lamb’s wool fibres with microscopic polyurethane foam particles. Cuts like natural sheepskin but finishes like a foam pad. Aggressively removes 1500 - 2000 grit scratches, leaving a lustrous finish with no hazing by reducing compounding swirls. Foamed fibres resist matting and compression. Foaming process also creates minute air pockets at the base of the fibres, which improves cushioning and retention of compounds and polishes. Information Resource- Lake Country Mfg., Inc.- Products - Wool Cutting Pad Features Pad Type Pros & Cons Wool: Pros-faster cutting leaves the surface cooler. Cons- leaves micro marring (buffer trails) Foam: Pros- gentle (non-aggressive) light to moderate cutting Cons- heats paint quicker, leaves surface with a smooth finish ready for application of last step product (LSP) *The foam pad colour identifications and specifications are by Lake County Manufacturing (LC) other manufactures of foam pads use different colours to identify the abrasiveness or cutting ability of their foam pads, they can be purchased at Car Care, Car Waxes, Car Polishes, Auto Detailing Supplies, Car Buffers, Car Covers, Car Accessories from Classic Motoring Accessories. Foam Pad Maintenance •Don’t use the same pad for different products, delicate a pad for wax, one for polish, one for machine polish, and etc. •When working in close proximity to hood ornaments, metal trim etc avoid forcing the pad against them as it may cause the foam to tear. •Pads must be kept free of dried-on product reside to ensure their flexibility and to ensure that they can maintain complete contact with uneven surfaces. •Clean residue from pads often with a soft horse hair brush, nylon or metal may damage the foam •Wash pads after use and air dry them •Don’t store pads in an airtight container as this causes mould •Don’t stack pads where other objects could deform or crease them. Abrasive Paper (Sandpaper) When talking about abrasive paper "grit" is a reference to the number of abrasive particles per inch of paper. The lower the grit the rougher the paper and conversely, the higher the grit number the smoother the paper. This makes sense if you imagine how small the particles on a 1000-grit paper would need to be to fit into a 1" square. Grit paper is referred to by the size of its abrasives (i.e. 1500-grit paper) the grit you use depends on what you are trying to do. Grit Sizes Grit number often refers to surface scratches or the abrading abilities of both foam and polishes. 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 are the sizes most often used in detailing, 2500 and 3000 are used mostly for Feather Sanding) Unigrit® Finishing Paper is used for the repair of severe surface and subsurface defects, it eliminates the risk of deep sanding scratches by providing a uniform grit size The Naked Detailer (cheers Jamie) No I'm not suggesting you detail your vehicle without any clothes on (although what you do in the privacy of your own garage...) But just be aware that jewellery, watches, rings, clothing with metal buttons, rivets or exposed zippers, or belt buckles can very easily be rubbed against the vehicle surface causing scratches. For safety reasons, Porter Cable recommends that the machine not be operated unless the pad or bonnet is flat on the work surface. This means both starting and stopping the machine while it is flat on the vehicle's surface. The top speed-limiting dial is infinitely adjustable from 1000 to 3000 rpm. Once the speed limit dial is set, the adjustable trigger allows operation from 0 to the set rpm limit. Note: The speed control is numbered from 1 to 6. According to Porter Cable here's the rpm range: (Speeds can vary 200 rpm depending on the line voltage [110 volts to 120 volts] in your area. 1 = 1,000 to 1,200 rpm, 2 = 1,400 to 1,600 rpm, 3 = 1,800 to 2,000 rpm, 4 = 2,200 to 2,400 rpm, 5 = 2,600 to 2,800 rpm, 6 = 3000 rpm Regular maintenance- you should clean the brushes, blowing out the vent holes every couple days. Once in a while remove the brushes and inspect for wear, replace if necessary. Other than keeping the machine clean and dust -free when it not in use very little maintenance is required Machine Polish / Foam Pad Combinations Always start with the least abrasive combination, i.e. a machine polish #2 and the least aggressive (polishing) foam pad. If that combination doesn't remove the imperfections, using the same machine polish #2 and change to more aggressive (cutting) foam pad. If the surface imperfections remain, then step-up the abrasive to a polish #3 and use the least aggressive (polishing) pad. Proceed as necessary by using the same level polish and going down to a less aggressive foam pad. It is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination. The abrading ability of these combinations can be changed by their application method (i.e. machine or hand application, speed and/or pressure used, using wet or dry and/or type of foam (different foam compositions have a differing abrading ability) The work is approximately distributed, 60% product, 30% foam composition and 10% pressure applied and/or speed of rotation or oscillation. Machine Polish Are formulated with lubricates, solvents and water, and an abrasive 0.3 micron mineral, that diminishes with use, buffered or cushioned in a rich, lubricating oil film, usually in a semi-liquid paste. They are available in many different grades (the ability to abrade i.e. to remove levels of paint) for detailing work they usually range from a 2000< grit polish (very mild) to a swirl mark remover (a medium abrasive) 1500 grit or a compound (various levels of abrasive) 1000 – 800 grit When using a machine polish that contains diminishing abrasives, once the abrasives reach a certain size they will no longer abrade (cut) the surface, if on further inspection the surface still has some defects, you will need to apply fresh polish. It is normal to polish a surface (unless the defects are minor) and to renew the polish to abrade the surface three or more times. Once the diminishing abrasives have reduced in size they become less aggressive and will then burnish the surface to a high gloss finish. Always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary `step-up' to a more abrasive product. Surface Preparation •Wash vehicle with a good quality car wash concentrate 1.0oz per 2 gallon (Zaino Z-7) •Rinse vehicle thoroughly. •Remove any imbedded contaminants with detailing clay (Clay Magic™) with a lubrication solution of a 5:1 (Distilled water/Woolite®) •Remove surface imperfections (Menzerna Intensive Polish) CAS 6/10, Orange /White Pad, speed # 3.5-4.0 •A swirl mark remover (Menzerna Final Polish II, (contains oils) CAS 3/10, White Pad, speed # 4.0 - 4.5 •Final polishing (Menzerna Final Polish II) grey/black Pad, speed # 5.5 •Work the polish until ‘almost’ dry or when it changes to a thin, clear (Vaseline like) liquid, its not necessary to use until it becomes a powder or has completely dissipated •Clean paint film surface with a chemical cleaner / polish (Klasse All-In-One) •Lightly wash paint surface with a diluted car wash concentrate of one once per gallon •Dry thoroughly before the application of a sealant and / or Carnauba wax For Ceramiclear clear coat replace (4) with Menzerna PO85RD, CAS 3/10and (5) with PO106FF, CAS 5/10 These polishes are better suited for use with a high-speed rotary polisher, as the micro-abrasives require heat to break down efficiently, designed to remove very fine (3000 grit) swirls from the new, super-hard, ceramic clear coats, they can also be used on conventional clear coats Paint Film Thickness Most modern vehicle paint film systems (paint build) comprise a Primer coat of 2Mils, a Colour coat of 1-2Mils, and Clear coat 2-3Mils thickness. Removing more that 0.3 mil (0.0003") of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure. As a point of reference a sheet of copy paper is 3.5Mil (0.0035") This is primarily because removal of too much clear coat can cause paint failure, as the paint systems UVR protection is a function of the clear coat. It also provides protection from a hostile environment and an excellent brilliance, but is easily scratched; once it is compromised repairs involve re-painting, as the base colour has no brilliance, shine or depth, start with the least abrasive product to accomplish desired results, and only if necessary move up to the next grade of abrasive. Using a Paint Thickness Gauge An electronic paint thickness gauge can be an invaluable tool, the gauge is especially useful during buffing and compounding All the major car manufacturers specify that measurements should be taken before, during and after these steps. This is primarily because removal of too much clear coat can cause paint failure over time due to the fact that UVR absorption is the job of the clear coat. Too little clear and the colour coat won't be protected from UV radiation. For this reason, it’s also recommended that paint be measured when buffing since you can’t see how much paint is being removed during the buffing process. If too much clear is removed, either on the original OEM finish or the refinished areas, a warranty issue may develop down the road. It’s interesting to note that painters must now demonstrate proficiency with an electronic paint thickness gauge in order to become certified to perform refinish warranty work for General Motors Corp. (GM) vehicles. Paint Thickness German and Japanese cars: 4-5 Mils (1 Mil=1000th of an inch) With the exception of: Lexus-White and Tan: 5-7 Mils, Lexus- Black and Silver: 4.5-6 Mils BMW: Silver: 6-7 Mils FORD: Approx. 5.5-7 Mils GM Cars and Trucks: Approx. 4.5-6.0 Mils, Jimmy’s and Blazers: approx 7 Mils Chrysler: Approx. 5.5-7 Mils (Note Sebring hoods are fibreglass) Dodge Cars: Similar to Chrysler Dodge Trucks and newer Ram Pick-ups: Cab approx. Mils and the boxes approx 9 Mils Jaguar: approx. 6-7.5 Mils (but they tend to vary) Jeep Grand Cherokee: These read approx. 6-8 Mils, Wranglers: approx. 4.5-5.5 Mils Machine Polish To polish the paint film surface with a high-speed orbital polisher requires a backing plate, a Velcro-backed foam pad, and a machine polish. 1.The variables are; pressure applied, foam pad composition, whether foam is used wet or dry, and the abrasiveness (cutting ability) of the applied machine polish. 2.No single machine polish can do it all; it usually takes at least two or more to obtain the results required. 3.The only constant is; Always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary, 'step-up' to a more abrasive products. Before buffing it’s always a good idea to check the paint film thickness to see how much of the paint film thickness available, check is periodically during the process and on completion to see how much was removed. Take measurements with a paint and coating thickness gauge Application: Clean the paint film surface by washing and then remove any wax or sealant with a paint preparation product like Dupont's Prepsol, Groit's Paint Prep or P21 S Total Auto Wash. •If the pad is new or dry, dampen the pad surface by misting it with distilled water, this will aid in compound/polish dispersion. •Place a small amount (approx 1-inch diameter) in an X onto the centre of a clean foam pad •Press the pad to the paint surface (remember always start and stop the machine with the pad flat on the paint surface. •Start the machine at 1,000 rpm, avoid the electrical cord interfering with the work surface by draping it over your shoulder (I also run a coil over my arm) •Once you've started the machine keeps it moving to avoid friction heat burning the paint film surface. •Using a `crosshatch' pattern (see illustration) on a 24-inch by 24-inch square and work the machine polish until the granules have dissipated. •For horizontal surfaces, apply a small `bead' of machine polish six to eight inches long raise the edge of the pad at the ten o'clock position approximately five degrees. •With a left-to-right steady motion, pick up the `bead' and then place the pad flat to the paint surface and start to polish the 24-inch by 24-inch square •Remember while the machine is turned on keep it moving and avoid staying in one place for too long. •Once the surface has the finish you are looking for you'll need to select the next grade of machine polish to step-down and repeat the process (if you started with machine polish 2, you'll need to step-down to machine polish 3 to remove the buffer marks left my the previous machine polish •Once this step is complete, rinse the surface thoroughly with water or Isopropyl Alcohol Common mistakes (not breaking down the diminishing abrasives sufficiently) 1. Diminishing abrasives- you need to allow the abrasives to break down (diminish) to create a great finish or you may impart surface marring, holograms or worse. The point at which a polish is fully broken down comes with experience but a good yard stick is when the polish has become clear and can easily be wiped off. 2. Always ensure that a ‘wet’ polishing film is always present between your pad and the surface. Swirls are usually caused d by using an aggressive polish without breaking down the diminishing abrasives properly, or you may have used too much polish or it may have dried. To remove spritz the pad with a quick detailer or distilled water (do not add further polish) and re-polish using the polish left on the pad. 4. ‘Buffer hop’ is when the rotary jumps across the paints surface usually due to insufficient polish/lubrication and as the foam pad grips the paint it jumps. Try spreading the polish more evenly across the pad, add more polish, distilled water or quick detailer (QD) Rotary Triangle Set the rotary to 600 rpm, then to 900rpm culminating at 1200rpm then work your way down through the triangle 900rpm and finish at 600rpm. 1200 rpm is where most of the paint surface defects will be removed. There probably will be some polishing defects (holograms) by going back down through the other side of our imaginary triangle you will remove these and any other defects resulting from using the rotary. Masking Tape 3M's Scotch® Safe-ReleaseTM Painters' Masking Tape This tape removes cleanly from a paint film or glass surface without adhesive transfer or surface damage for up to 14 days - even when exposed to direct sunlight. It is a medium adhesion tape with a flexible crepe backing allows for exceptional conformability to semi-smooth surfaces. Use to mask around windows, badges, vinyl or rubber trim, can also be used to mask panel edges to avoid thinning the paint surface Notes: 1.I would strongly advise the wearing of safety glasses when operating or using this or any other machine 2.Be extra careful and avoid sharp edges on your car because paint is thinner at these points and you may wear through to the base coat. If you are concerned, use 3M Safe Release Masking Tape over these areas. It's also a good idea to cover vinyl / plastic trim also. 3.Practice on an older car until you get the feel of it. 4.Prime the foam pad with clean distilled water or a QD spray as this helps the product to spread more easily. 5.After you are done compounding and you are satisfied with the surface finish you will need to apply some paint protection. 6.Using too much product will clog up the pad and cause bounce and possibly holograms. Too little, will break down too quickly thereby causing too much heat, also causing holograms. 7.Flexathene® Thermoplastic Polyolefin's are manufactured from polycarbonates or polymer blends and are used for aerodynamic spoilers, bumper covers and wings. They are a very porous vinyl with a `flex-agent' to ensure its flexibility and prevent `spider web' cracking. 8.I would not recommend using a compound or a buffer/rotary polisher on these type surfaces, as it will cause them to smudge/smear due its porosity and the softness. Specification: Porter Cable 7428 High-Speed Rotary Polisher Electronic adjustable speed control, 0-3,000RM Power: 110-120 Volts AC, 50-60Hz Motor: 10Amp Speed (constant): 0 – 6,000 RPM Spindle Thread: 5/8- inch, 11UNC Weight: 6.5Lbs Information resource 1.Automotive Detailing Inside & Out; a Knowledge Base for the Perfectionist, by Jon Miller 2.TOGWT™ Series of Detailing Articles, by Jon Miller 3.Rotary polisher usage tips article © TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2009, all rights reserved Detailing Articles This is one of is one of a series of unbiased and informative, knowledge based, subject specific articles, which are dedicated to the automotive detailing enthusiast or professional detailer in search of development and further education Copyright Protection and intellectual property rights-© This work is registered with the UK Copyright Service that supports international copyright protection by securing independent evidence that will help prove originality and ownership in any future claims or disputes. All original material is copyright, unless otherwise state (1) it may be copied and distributed for non-commercial purposes only provided that you retain all copyright and other proprietary notices contained in the original material, (2) the information is copied in full with no changes unless prior written agreement is obtained from TOGWT, and a reference to © TOGWT ™ is included, any unauthorized use of these materials may violate copyrights and/or trademark. Be aware these files have been digitally watermarked and actually contain embedded copyright information; so they can be traced to any website on the internet if needed in a legal confrontation
This thread is great. It gives me all the information I need. Instead of trying to guess when I'm Doing a job I can refer to this In a minute. Although it is to long for me to comprehend in one sitting. I would rate this 5...:thumb:
