Thinking about getting a FlexXC 3401

Plan on picking up a flex sometime in the near future. Right now i have the older Porter Cable as my polisher. I have decent amount of stock in 5.5" lake country pads.

When going to a Flex. do i need to buy all my pads all over again in 6.5". Can I use my 5.5" pads? is if safe if i do?

I keep reading that the "max" pad size for the Flex is 6.5".

 

May I ask why you would get rid of your PC for the Flex version? Your PC is very much capable of doing whatever the Flex will.

 

thats max pad size. not minimum pad size. you can use 5.5 pads. u might need to get 5" backing plate if they are avaliable since i think its special plate and not regular DA BP

 

I never said I was going to get rid of the PC. But I feel the Flex is a better machine. The spindle orbits and is driven on the Flex, where the PC's spindle just orbits and the spindle free spins. From everything else I've read, the Flex does what the PC can do, faster because its ability to "cut". And if i can save time on polishing steps, that money back in pocket for my side business.

I'll keep the PC for jobs that don't require that much work.

Recently, I worked on a 1998 Dodge Durango. The paint was in poor shape and needed alot of work. I went at with a PC, using an LC yellow cutting pad, and Menz. PG. This combo brought back life in the paint, but it took a very long time. Or course followed this with a second polishing step.

Point is, I would like to upgrade and I have the money to do so. Just want to know if certain pads will work or not.

 

I see the flex as time. The flex seems to do most things quicker with a less aggressive polish/pad than a PC over the same size work area.

 

The standard bp for the 3401 is 6", there was smaller bp that originally came out with the flex but it had delamination issues and then the 6' came as stanndard issue with the machine...A forum buddy did lathe down the original plate for me and I could use smaller pads.

I know edge was talking about making an alternate bp system for the gear driven bp that the flex 3401 uses but I was never 100% if it got off the ground and how many were produced...

 

Edge did come out with one of their quick disconnect adapters for the Flex. If you get the Edge adapter you can use their 6" pads or even their 4" pads with the Flex.

I was thinking of switching my Flex over to the Edge system but ever since Edge was bought by 3M their DA size pads seem to be getting harder to find and fewer in variety.

 

I'm not saying that the Flex is a bad machine, but I would consider changing pads and polishes before plunking down that much money on a similar machine. If you went with the Gloss it yellow or white and a polish like Menz SIP or Power Finish, you'd be able to rectify most paints without a second step unless they are absolutely hammered, at which point it would be a two step with any machine. You'd be better off spending that money on a Flex Lightweight rotary. Sounds like your very capable on the Porter Cable so moving up to a rotary wouldn't be that much of a jump and then there would be a time savings worth the money. I'm just offering you my opinion based on my experience.

 

What you are saying does make sense. I guess I'm also a little intimidated by a rotary. I'll have to look into the rotary a bit more now. Thanks guys for all your input!!! :mounty:

 

I second that. Although I did get a Griot DA and dumped my old pc. A rotary can do so much more and faster than a Flex DA.

 

If your interested in a Flex rotary check this link out....

http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/f50/new-items-f-s-12804.html

 

Rotary ain't any scary and if it is for profit where time is an issue, you seriously should be looking in getting and mastering one. Since you already got a PC, i would go straight to a rotary. Just my thoughts.

 

I'd agree with 911 Fanatic

Orbital Buffer or Rotary Polisher
There is a place for both a random orbital buffer and a high speed polisher in a detailer’s toolkit, once you are proficient with an orbital all that is required to ‘step-up' to the polisher is practice, practice and then more practice, which should be done on a scrap vehicle panel as opposed to your own or someone else’s vehicle
Sometimes a dual-action polisher just isn’t enough for really tough scratches and swirls. You need the cutting power of a rotary polisher to penetrate the clear coat and smooth over rough edges to restore your paint to its original flawless finish.

Scale 1/10 Rotary 7424XP / XC3401VRG / Metabo PE-125
Safety – 9 / 8 / 3
Correcting time- 10 / 8 / 5
Correcting ability- 5 / 7.5 / 9.5
Learning curve - 2 / 5 / 8


Note: If you have extensive experience with a random orbital machine the learning curve could be greatly reduced

Singular or Dual Controlled Component
The definition of a dual (two) action as opposed to a singular (one) action polisher-
a) A Single action machine (constant circular orbit (RPM) has only one contr
olled component of a backing plate / pad. Due to its singular motion and high torque motor ( verage 10 Amp) it is able to produce friction while the operator applies pressure, allowing these machines to do a lot of work quickly

b) A Dual action machine (5/16-inch offset random elliptical orbit is one of the two controlled components of the backing plate / pad; orbiting around a centre spindle, while the baking plate / pad freely spins on its own axis. The backing plate mounting is off-centre, as the (average 4.5 Amp) motor drive rotates, centrifugal force along with a counter-weight moves the backing plate in an elliptical motion, to balance this motion a counter weight is fitted to counteract machine vibration

c) A Forced Rotation Dual action machine one action is the circular rotation and the second action is the random movement of the backing plate while it is rotating. It has both a circular motion (RPM) and a direct drive; elliptical orbital (OPM) motion with forced rotation, which means that the supplied back plate rotates by a gear mechanism in a forced counter clockwise circular motion, at the same time the back plate rotates it also oscillates in a random pattern.

What makes this type of movement ‘safer’ is the comparatively lower torque (7.5 Amp) electric motor on these units, so that it's virtually impossible to apply too much concentrated pressure in one place at one time. Chances are good that when too much pressure is applied, the oscillating action will come to a stop thereby protecting the finish.

 

The thing that gets me about the Flex is the Price. Why is it $300? C'mon. I would rather go get a Makita 9227 rotary for around $180 AND use the PC to finish with.

 

The anwser is GERMAN!, the Euro!, if you own German made car's or bikes, you know its time and a half on the cost! Lots of times Double !
: ) bd

 

honestly, Ken, I upgraded to Flex VRG3401 I really liked that machine...to me, PC is vibration/masturbation machine...When I work on hard clear it takes sooooooooooooooooooooo much time to complete the job, it is just not worth it...although if you point is to skip Flex DA and upgrade to rotary, I'm with you, I just love my Makita...
but then if you come across those sticky paints, I'd rather use a Flex DA, even though it costs $300 then do another correction my PC7424...Last time I did a paintwork correction with a PC, I felt like I was polishing myself, not a car...I was so tired and dehydrated, I was sick the next day...That never happened with me when using a Flex DA or Makita...
The only thing I keep it for now is to apply LSPs...although even that I prefer doing by hand...maybe I'll just get rid of both of them (PC7424, and UDM)...

 

If you are looking for a rotary, I'm there with you...but if you need a PC, I'd rather pay $300 (it's worth it) then do another correction with a PC7424....

 

As far as rotaries go ( not the Flex 3401VRG ) you are paying for quality. My flex 3403 is smother at 2500rpm than my Makita is at 900. No comparison. THey aren't even in the same league.

I have a 3401 but don't use it. The thing I don't like about it is that the dual action caused it to wander and I'm always fighting it. Like going home to a wife you hate. Whats the point. The PC may add a bit of time, but on speed 5, its very smooth and easy to handle. Also, with the right pad/polish combo, you can do some very good correcting in one step that would take two on a rotary.

 

I don't know Ken, but I remember it took me good 2 or 3 days to do paintwork correction on my daily driver 3 years ago (and yes, paintowork was in terrible condition, but I got a car cheap, afterall, it's a daily driver), and I finally gave up, I did very little correction to it...I will admit, I did not even try Flex 3401 on my daily driver,(I used it on other cars with success), I went straight to Makita, and boy, I love this machine!!! It's quiter then Flex 3401 (another advantage over Flex), and I don't get any vibrations from it (Flex still does, although much less)...I just love my rotary...Much easier to work on hard BMWs paints...

 

def go rotary man. get a junk panel and a little practiced and u will have it no time. i would def recomend spending the money on the rotary instead of another da. just my 2 cents. good luck with the choice man keep us posted