The One-Step Discussion

Discussion in 'Compounds, Polishes, Paint Cleaners, and Glazes' started by Denzil, Sep 4, 2008.

  1. Denzil

    Denzil Guest

    It's obvious that many of us have different definitions of a one-step when it comes to paint correction. Some of us consider the use of AIOs as their one-step while others consider the use of finishing polishes or even medium polishes as their one-step.

    While it may be taboo to one-step with particular medium polishes, it becomes a better value for certain customers who truly want the best bang for the buck. Some clients don't care for the consequences that result of certain medium polishes being used as a one-step, let alone some that can't even tell the difference.

    Now I find myself questioning whether finishing polishes and AIOs should be strictly left for one-stepping and medium polishes and/or compounds strictly for two-stepping and multi-stepping. There's definitely a gray area here depending on whose perspective it is, whether it be the detailer or the client him/herself.

    So in your honest opinion, no one is right or wrong here regardless, is it reasonable to use a medium polish as a one-step so long as the client agrees to it even though it's not accepted as good practice among the detailing world? Are we to prescribe our treatment to the client of their vehicle based on our good practices and judgement or tailor directly to their needs without hesitation or question?

    Do we leave it entirely to ourselves to decide? The client? Or perhaps some combination of the two? What do you think? :campfire:
  2. Dream Machines

    Dream Machines Jedi Nuba

    need to tailor it to their needs of course, we need to listen to the customers wants and needs but we are the experts and they should listen to us as well

    I do not have a problem with anything like Menzerna powergloss, Prima Swirl or Cut, Menzerna SIP or any 1000 to 2000 grit polish being used on it's own

    As long as it is applied using the burnishing method

    Either - start at 600, work slowly up to 1500 to 1800 then back down to 750rpm

    or in the case of some polishes, especially Prima

    Spread at 600, select 1500 and buff until it breaks down at that one speed then slow down to 1200

    Spray some QD onto the surface and buff again between 750 and 900 rpm (either one) for up to a minute

    That way, there are no holograms, buffing swirls and a very high quality finish can be attained

    Especially SIP with orange, yellow or white Foam pad
  3. togwt

    togwt Nuba Guru

    I agree with "need to tailor it to their needs of course, we need to listen to the customers wants and needs but we are the experts and they should listen to us as well"

    Their money, their choice - but we need to pass on advice based on our experience, that what being a professional entails (doesn't mean that they will heed the advice though)
  4. Reflect

    Reflect DB Forum Supporter

    Any one step that finishes out to a nice depth and clarity, even if not 100%, and leaves no surface marring, is fine in my vocabulary.
  5. sal329

    sal329 Nuba Guru

    I think of a one step as an AIO. If you have not tried Meguiars new D151 I think you should. I used it one my sis white 07 mazda 6 with a PC orange lc 5.5" pad, the paint looks great, it removed more scratches then I thought it would. I topped with OCW for added protection. 3 weeks and the car still looks great.
  6. SuperBee364

    SuperBee364 Birth of a Detailer

    Nope. I leave it to the condition of the car and the clear coat. Sure, I have my favorite "one stepper" (currently M151), but it isn't appropriate for all situations. I use my best judgement considering how bad the defects are, the color of the paint, how hard it is, as well as how well I'm being compensated to all decide on what "one step" course of action (pad, product, RPM's, etc.) will be used.
  7. Dannyk

    Dannyk Jedi Nuba

    I determine that approach given the needs of the car and the person. I also think its important to tell a person if we do something in one way, what the pros and cons are, and then let said person make the decision. No different going to a doctor, mechanic, etc. We like to make a decision based on whats presented us. So, there is really no definitive answer.
  8. bigfoot

    bigfoot Jedi Nuba

    To me, AIO's are very mild polishes that will not remove all scratches. I personally use them as a final polish. We need to tell the customers that what is and what's not about them, and most of them will only remove very, and I mean very fine scratches.

    I personally have 2 that I love big time: Poorboy's Polish with Carnauba Blue and Optimum Poli-Seal. The first gives a very crisp and deep shine that is unbelievable, and the last will spread like butter and super easy to remove. It has a very tricky eyecatch: it'll dissapear while working! It is really weird
  9. Bence

    Bence Two Bucket System Washer

    Yep PS is designed to work invisible, yet it's still there. When it leaves any thing behind you are using too much and the surface will be duller. As it just slides on itself.

    One of my fave AIOs. The others are Finish Kare 215 and Carlack 68NSC. Wanna try D151 though...

    I did a very nice one stepper on a Heather Mist Accord with 215 using a Menzerna orange one step pad. finished out great, correction was more than satisfying.
  10. Denzil

    Denzil Guest

    Thanks for your replies everyone. I'm sure this discussion is something that will be ongoing and definitely varies from one individual to another.

    There are certain cases where the vehicle to be worked on is such terrible condition but yet the client is only willing to pay for a one-step. The question that always arises is "Should I hit it with SIP (for example; able to knock out a lot of swirls and finish down decently depending on how hard the clear is) or should I hit it with a finishing polish or AIO?"

    It really is subjective, hehe.
  11. Nica

    Nica Banned

    Well this is just my opinion and I should stress that I do this for shere pleasure so for me it's not about the money.

    Having said that, I educate the vehicle owners as much as I can by explaining to them what exactly the process will be and why it will take so long. For the most part they get it and to letting the vehicle owners choose, in my case no. I do what I feel is nesesary to achive the right results, for me I'm all about blowing the owner away and I will go out of my way to do so...but like I said that's just me. Now if I was doing this for a living that would be a completely differnt story.

    People seem to respond better when they see the before and after pictures, the transformation. But I explain to them what it took for me to get the results they so enjoy.

    As for using finishing polish or AIO, I don't like using finishing polish or AIO as a one step, I prefer to use Menzerna Intensive Polish (85RD3.02) with a polishing pad..but that is clear coat dependent of course. For the most part Menzerna Intensive Polish will do a great job and removing swirls but depending how bad the state of the vehicle will determine the outcome but like I said for the most part I personaly don't rely on finishing polishes as a one step process...but just me.
  12. 911Fanatic

    911Fanatic DB Pro Supporter

    I'm going to throw a curveball into this and mess it all up I know but, here goes. Clients budget and timeframe are equally important.
    Scenario #1 - Has to be done in a day within a small budget. Use a good one step polish/wax or polish/ sealant . Right now I like Menz One Step Acrylic Jacket. Its a 60/40 mix of 106FF and FMJ. Removes light scratches and leaves a very shiny finish. The other way to go is with a glaze but then thats two steps ,at which point you should be polishing stuff out, not hiding it.
    Scenario #2 - Client has a larger budget and a little more time. My go to in this situation is SIP on LC CCS Green. Removes quite a bit and finishes down LSP ready - no hologramming. This can be done in a long day if need be.
    Having said this, I try very hard to persuade people to at least allow me to go the SIP route if the car needs it because at the end of the day, its my name on it. I would almost rather not do it if I can't do it my way. The last thing I want is a potential client looking at the job I did for a client who wouldn't spend the money necessary and be deterred because it looks like crap still.
  13. Denzil

    Denzil Guest

    911, that's something I definitely keep in mind. However, I always try my best to make sure the client understands what they are getting for their targeted budget.

    I can only hope that if that client refers a friend, he/she does so rightfully and explains that the vehicle could look better if the client actually paid more for it.

    We have to remember that our clients can tell their friends the story however they want to so all we can do is hope they relay the information correctly.
  14. Bence

    Bence Two Bucket System Washer

    I was talking about true one-steppers, not just one-step polishing. 1.5 step is (or is it 1.25?) when I remove the 3.02 with OCW for example.

    But for me, true one-step jobs are when I just have to go over the vehicle once. No more LSPs, no spray thingies.

    When I do a single polishing step, I'm using 3.02, Scholl S17 or Optimum Compound.
  15. mixxer

    mixxer Birth of a Detailer

    I have used SIP with orange pad as a 1 step paint correction before. Its not the best thing to do as but sometimes the clients budget does not allow for 2 steping and they want to get the most correction they can get with one step at the expense of a little more gloss.Sip does finish down rather nice .
  16. scheerspeed

    scheerspeed DB Forum Supporter

    my normal 1-step is what i call my "abracadabra" package. in know... it's a funny name, but people like it....

    it's also my most popular.

    on a dark car i would usually go over the entire car with 106FF and a Green LC CCS pad at 1500 RPM. if any scratches remain on the hood, trunk, or tops of the doors, i just do it over again anyway, without asking for extra pay. because at the end of the day, i want my customer to be able to show off their car to their friends, and their friends to be amazed and want me to do their cars as well. seriously, how long does it take to do the hood, trunklid, and the tops of the doors, a extra hour? in my opinion that extra hour is worth the "wow" from the customer vs. the "it looks good".

    however, on a lighter car i will usually go with SIP on a white or green CCS, and i will make sure it breaks down as much as possible and do my last pass on 900RPM.

    then i top that with either jetseal and CG 5050/Pete's 53 or ezcreme/collinite or RB OE.

    i hope that makes sense...

    i have also found that if the customer watches, and likes to hang around while you detail, they see how much hard effort is put into it, and they end up paying more than i quote them.
  17. Denzil

    Denzil Guest

    Keep in mind when I say this and it is subjective but there may be some of those friends of your clients that won't be able to tell the difference between "wow" and "looks good". Not everyone has "DB" eyes if you know what I mean. Also, it's up to your client to represent you in the most honest way. If they pay for a one-step and it doesn't look perfect (since most of us desire perfection), it's your client's discretion whether or not to disclose that that was what they paid for.

    It's great going over cars with medium polishes to give your clients the best bang for the buck but considering how SIP behaves (and other similar polishes that leave behind oils), you always have to consider whether it really will finish down correctly. Of course, this all depends on the hardness of the clear coat and other minor factors.
  18. 911Fanatic

    911Fanatic DB Pro Supporter

    I would like to know more about this D151. Anyone?
  19. Denzil

    Denzil Guest

    I believe you may be referring to M151 or Meguiar's (Detailer Line) Paint Reconditioning Cream.
  20. porta

    porta Jedi Nuba

    If I am doing a one stepper, I use a wax polish like Scholl A15, Automagic Xp swirl remover or something like that. But I prefere to do a one step polish with like Menzerna PO85RD3.02/Scholl S17 or 3M 80439 extra fine cut and then a spray wax. This will give the best result since I will remove swirls instead of removing some and hiding some.

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