Hey all, Taken time off from cars for a month and just got a chance to try out ONR for the first time. Used two buckets w/Grit Guarts, 4 gallons each, 4 "capfulls" of ONR. Water 70 degrees and ambient temp about 50. Used new Schmitt. Freaky stuff. I was worried about dragging a new tool (for me) across the dirty paint with such a non-standard product. No pre-hose down, no sudsy mess. Just went at it - panel at a time. Although it's not apparent until you rince out the Schmitt, which I did on each pass, but the rise water was opaque by the time I was done. No (new) scratches and car looks great. I just used the slightest amount of pressure, usually letting the OWR-weighted Schmitt apply the pressure and I just moved it around. Microfiber dried after each panel. Three gallons of ONR ended up on the floor - I can live with that. Any other methods I should consider? In the end, I'd definately give it a thumbs up. It's kindda like kissing your sister... but, since I don't have a sister, I can't really visualize that, so I guess I'll just keep using it. It does have it's advantages. Anyway, I'm gonna bust out the new toy (SIP) and have at it with my PC. I just used clay/PG/106FF/Glantz on another car and it turned out great on another car. This car that I just did ORN on will get clay/SIP/106FF/Glantz. But - and here's my question - how do I properly strip? Will a good clay bar'ing have the same effect. That's how I've always done it, but I'm a rank amateur. How do you know when all the protectants are off? The car has traditionally been a garage car and I hit it with Speed Shine about one a week. That seemed to give all the protection it needed. So I don't know if that's what's causing the beading after the ORN or is that how clean paint should behave. Oh yeah, it's a one stage non-clear respray on an old Peugeot (surprise!). Looks pretty decent. Just can't wait 'till the SIP/106FF/Glantz goes on! I'll try to get pics of the SIP/106FF/Glants process. Thanks for any hints!