Strike through?

Hi guys. I might have burn through some paint on a car today. Is this something that can be fixed, or is a respray the only alternative? Had a chat with pirex, and he suggested 3000 wetsand paper, but the chance was small. Any ideas? BTW this section was to be repainted anyway, just testing.




Thanks!

 

Bear in mind I say this with fairly limited experience but that looks like strike through to me. Easy way to tell would be to use 3000grit like Pirex suggested, make a single stroke and then blot the area with a white towel to check for pigment.

Is that pigment around that crevices in the wheel arch by your thumb from wetsanding?

 

I dont't think so, they are from the 3M masking tape. But what do you mean with a singel stroke to see if there's any pigment? What do i actually see? Paint falling off? Thanks for the quick answer btw:thumb:

 

instead of using 3000 grit why not take a polish on a white towel and rubb. If colour comes up then you have gone through the clear.

 

that does not look like burnt paint....looks like something more or less dragged on it...did you use a rotary or PC....or were you using the edge of a pad to get the flair on the fender...then it may have a pad edge burn..but it looks like more of a plate scratch to me from a plate hitting the paint....

AL

 

I agree......that would have to be an awefully thin pad!

 

Yes, I too would have to agree with Al. When you burn through the clear coat the paint colour changes and it's quite notisable.

So you indused that long scratch? How deep is it? Does it get caught if you run your nail on it? Wet sanding might help but it depends how deep it is, if it's just surface scuff mark a rotary should help that out with an aggresive polish and work yoru way back up.

Well just my :2cents:

 

Theres two defects on that fender guys. One is the long scratch which is pretty obvious. The other is what hes actually pointing at, which looks like he went through the clear.

 

Thanks for the answers guys. well the defect i'm talking about is actually what D&D mentioned: where i'm pointing my hand. Don't mind about the scratch. And again, thanks for the answers. Have i burnt through? Do you think it's possible to polish it? btw the car is a Opel Corsa and i'm using a hitachi rotary with menzerna/megs products.

 

What exactly were you using when it happened. How many passes?

 

Wetsanding would only make it worse as it looks like you've polished right through the clearcoat.

 

I am thinking that is strike through... not something that dragged across the paint. That looks EXACTLY like why clear coat strike through looks like. There is a great reduction in gloss in that area, if you follow the reflection it almost ends around where his finger is. Under bright lights it would have a different texture than the rest of the paint. There is a difference between burning the paint and striking through the clear coat. A lot of people that jump into the rotary without being careful will strike through the clear in a few places, without knowing it.

 

I still say its something rubbed on it..look at the variations of the line....and the line is sharp not feathered like a paint burn...look at the wavy patteren also...to have a burn that long he would notice it fast...but with passing a BP over the paint fast you would not ..just my thoughts...

AL

 

I dont think you're looking at it right. I circled what hes asking about. Hopefully you dont mind bjorke.



He didnt burn the paint, simply buffed through the clear. It needs to be resprayed.

 

Ok ....now I see what you mean..it was the long mark above that area that my eye seen and concentrated on...if you did not circle it I would still be looking at the mark above it...its the most obvious one...lol....

Now I will say he took the clear off....I see it now.....

Thanks D&D....my old eyes would never have seen it with out it being highlighted...lol....

try a PDR shop....sometimes they can spot shoot a area .....

AL

 

Yup, it's was the area i was pointing on. Just wanted to check out if there was anything i could do. But now i see the only option is a respray. Thanks guys

 

that clear coat must have been extremly thin if you look where the fender meets the wheel well cover you can see it was repainted before and wasent taped well for they painted the well cover too lol. if you get that repainted request some extra layers of clear and next time you polish you should less than likely have this problem again. that is a huge problem iv noticed with shops repainting panels they are notorious for putting a bare minimum of clear on the paint. i expierenced the same problem with my daily car.

 

Yes, I would have to agree with you on this one...but I've asked this to Gerry (good friend of mine who owns a well reputable body shop here in town) and what he told me is that yes body shops are regulated as to how much paint/clear cot to put on the vehicle but it's up to body shop's description as to how much paint/clear coat to apply. Now I'm not expert on this but Gerry also told me that if you use too much paint/clear coat there is a bonding issue. The first thing I asked Gerry was can you put a thick, thick amount of clear coat and Gerry's answer to my question was no. Obviously, the more clear coat you put on the more orange peal you get, so Gerry told me there is a limit :shrug: any who it was a very interesting conversation with Gerry.

 

yeah i know what he is talking about my friends father owns a pontiac dealership and they were explaining something similar to me and were explaining to me about how they have encountered the competitions body shops only using "1" layer of clear for a paint job. he would just shake his head when he was telling me about it. and another thing he was telling me is even if they apply up to 4 layers of clear they will use cheap clears alot of times as well that are just terrable at bonding period and when someone has the car detailed later on down the road the clear can almost vaporize due to just the minimal amount of heat from the product and pads. and iv seen that kind of clear on cars before where it will wear off just from poorly washing the cars. its a real shame i understand that aftermarket paint is usually never as durable as original but i mean come on seriously. in order to get a half decent paint job on panel your looking at paying $100-$200 depending on its size. my brother had the trunk of his bmw painted due to a rust spot by the lip Autometric did the job and you cant even tell the differance between the trunk and the rest of the car its perfect. he had the whole car rubbed out by them as well about a year after and they had to problems and there was some pretty bad swirls in the trunk due to him going throught automatic car washes all the time. but that job costed $800 to fix the rust and repaint it.

 

That's true yoyomoefoe, the products a body shop chooses to use determine the quality of the job. I honestly didn't realize there was a difference on clear coat but there actually is. Oh and each clear coat behaves differently as well, during application that is. Shame there are body shops that take corners though but you get what you pay for I guess :shrug: