Sources for learning rotary buffing?

Does anyone know any good sources online for learning or getting better at rotary buffing?

It would be really helpful for any beginners tips, intermediate, and advanced.

Is there any online source like a video or articles?

 

I'd look on youtube. It is not that hard. Practice with wool - much safer and cut better.

 

Is wool safer because it doesn't heat up the panels as much? It's the most aggressive though and removes the most paint or clearcoat... so I don't want to get accustomed to doing that unless I have very bad paint to begin with.

 

Check out these man they helped me out alot

[video=youtube;sYd6HnJKmz8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYd6HnJKmz8[/video]

As well as Daves video

[video=youtube;mRRbhDs3PQI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRRbhDs3PQI[/video]

And I literally read all of this, it is alot but defiantly something you should take the time to read.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/images/misc/rotarypolishing.pdf

 

I still have some of those black pads. Somehow I've managed not to use most of them. I think like 10 in total.

 

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...ypolishing.pdf this is one of the best resources for rotary instruction available

 

Danny, togwt... thank you so much guys!

I probably would not have pulled up those sources on my own!

I'll be giving both a thorough look!

God bless!

 

You assume that wool eats clear like there is no tomorrow.

Even with wool it takes a lot to level unless of course you are going 3000rpm. But that is not how one polishes. There is nothing wrong with starting out with foam (That is how I learned as well) but the first time you use wool you'll see.

Of course if the paint is nearly flawless one doesn't need wool, but if you do paint corrections, you will find that most cars need lots of work and come with deep rids.

 

Wool vs. Foam

Pro -faster cutting generates less friction induced heat and therefore leaves the surface cooler, removes heavy oxidation much more efficiently than a form pad. Use foam pad for slower and finer cutting. Wool pads are easier to control compared to foam. They glide as the wool nap ‘lies down’ and will conform to vehicle body shape easily. Make certain to spur the wool fibres when it loads up with product.

Con -wool can leave micro marring (buffer trails) finish with a foam pad to remove. Don’t overwork the polish as wool will break diminishing abrasives faster than foam, the surface lubricants will dry up faster and you could end up dry buffing unless you’re careful.

There are too many variables with different wool and foam types, along with too many compounds to give a definite choice.

 

Thats the same link I posted man

No problem man hope it helps you out

 

I would say one of the most important things is to have a good backing plate. I use the 3m perfect-it plate and it is worth every bit of the cost. It will let you get away with much more as your trying to learn.

 

I also learned on wool as a little kid in my Dad's shop, and at the time that was all the Industry offered. And decades later, guess what - that is still what most or perhaps I could say almost all body shops use. I agree, it is fast, and use properly, with the right compounds, speeds, and pressure, it is pretty darn good.
The minuses - wool everywhere, material everywhere - because the long fibers will sling more easily with higher speeds. What you want to remember to do is to clean up all compound sling quickly or it will harden and become much harder to take out of that plastic hood vent that should have been covered, but wasnt...

If I was going to teach anyone how to buff and I would be glad to do so, I would use the Lake Country Purple Foam Wool Pads, a "hybrid" so to speak, pad, that combines both foam and wool, cuts fast, evenly, and does not leave a lot if any, marring, swirls, trails, etc., that just wool pads might do..

You will pretty much still see every body shop in the world, using wool/wool blends, to buff out a freshly painted, cured, and color sanded, vehicle, airplane, it doesnt matter, vehicle because it flat works and works quickly and leaves a good enough finish to meet most criteria, after it has been polished finer and glazed.

I just finished Detailing out a Jet Black X5 that had the front end and hood painted, and while it was pretty, glossy, new paint, I was able to improve it much more with a Rotary and Foam pads, because the Wool pads I saw the Painter using can only bring out the finish so far.

You can lean a lot from wool on a rotary, and it probably is a great way to learn how to use the tool, but I think you can still do a lot with the right foam pad/s and the appropriate compounds as well, and you wont have as much clean up to do after - even using the Purple Foam Wool Pads i speak of above...

Good luck, perhaps see if you can get around a body shop or know of one where they will let you watch the Painter use a Rotary, etc., or find a great Detailing Shop that uses Rotary as well as the other tools, and see if you can watch and pick up some information along the way..

Good luck with this !
Dan F