hey all, new guy trying to come up here. in regards to using the rotarty buffer (makita) I would like some feedback from all of you on compounding. my compounds and polishes of choice thus far are the menzerna brand and I just started using some of the gloss-it pads and lubricnts and the combo is really working well. my question is what speed do you guys compound at on hard/medium/soft paint. I have read online some guys making one pass on a car using a wool pad at a speed of 2500 rpm and then dropping it down to one more pass at 1000 rpm for jewlewing. do any of you find this a little excessive in speed? am I going too slow when compounding at around 900-1200 using a tuf-buff black (5 inch) pad and a power gloss or SIP selection? any feedback would be greatly appreciated on this as I am trying hard to speed up the process, without giving in to quality. also, I was told recently at a local supply store that when using pads whether foam and/or wool to wet them with water and then squeeze them dry. this leave just enough water in the pad/wool so that they do not bounce all over the paint from too much friction. any of you try this? and how much product to you put onto a fresh pad that has not been primed yet? how do you go about primeing these new wool pads? thanks alot!
Polishing Pyramid System High Speed Rotary Using a Sliding Scale 600-900-1200 RPM- commence by spreading the product and then start polishing by setting the speed to 600 RPM, then adjust to 900RPM culminating at 1200RPM then descend to 900RPM and finish at 600RPM; linear speed should be 2 – 3 inch per second (IPS) 1200 RPM is where most of the paint surface defects will be removed. There probably will be some polishing defects (holograms, etc) by descending the sliding scale (1200-900-600RPM) you will remove these and any other minor defects 1. Spread at 600RPM, single pass 2. Begin polishing at 1200RPM, 2 - 4 passes 3. Increase speed to 1500RPM, 10 passes until abrasives breakdown 4. Refine at 1200RPM, 2 - 3 passes An extract from one of a series of 110 in-depth, unbiased “Detailing Technical Papers” © TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2009, all rights reserved. These papers will enable direct access to my five decades of detailing knowledge and experience
You dont need to prime your pads with anything except maybe the polish. On wool pads I dont do any priming.
Like a lot of things in detailing, there's no single "right" way. The safest way is to keep the speed down in combination with not moving too slowly. What you are trying to avoid at all costs is to generate too much friction so that the surface heats up and burns/damages the clear. You can either use a faster speed (which you need to with a product like M105) or go slower and slow down your passes. The catch is that you NEED to generate a certain amount of friction, but not too much. I find the most dangerous situation is where you have a small trouble spot and you don't move the polisher wide enough as you concentrate on that area. ALWAYS keep it moving. Just feel the surface with your hand...slightly warm is OK>No more than that and you'll be fine. Knowing you don't want to get the surface hot, I throw it back to you: practice it at a higher speed (1500-1800) with faster passes and then compare it to a slower speed (1000-1200) with slower passes and see what YOU prefer. We all have different styles but we all tend to get similar results. Have some fun and experiment, just remembering surface temperature.
It all depends on the product you are using Gtechniq P1 - I use 600, 900 or 1000 rpm Menzerna 85RD - 600-900-1200-1250-1000,900,800,700,600 (4 to 20 mins) Prima swirl - spread at 600. then straight to 1700 to 1900 to burnish the finish and achieve brighter or darker colour shade and superb correction ability. jewel at 1200, 1000 and 900 after its broken down Glare Zero - anything from 600 to 2300 rpm. it doesnt create heat so theres no issue with that RPM level
