Rotary, Backing Plates, Pads....What do I get?

Hey guys,

So the next step in my detailing obsession is to purchase a Rotary. Being a student and paying university fees pays a heavy toll on funds for my obsession so please keep that in mind when recommending something to me.

A lot of people say to purchase the PC 7424 first and then transition into the Rotary but I want to start with the rotary and practice on junk metal before I move onto cars. I can't afford to buy both at this time so I'd much rather get something for the long run.

There is a lot of talk about various Rotary so I'm just going to fire questions and if you guys could help me along.

Rotary
After doing some readings to me the Flex seems very valuable. Doesn't have overheating issues, lightweight, and is able to fit in the nooks and crannies.

So....the Flex L3403 VRG Lightweight Rotary Polisher or the Flex Tool XC 3401 VRG Polisher?

1. What's the difference between the two other than the price (3401 is $70 more at eShine)?
2. A lot of people combo the Flex with other rotary's? isn't this one enough to get 'er done?

Pads
There are a crapload of pads available out there. Seeing as I will be practicing with my rotary on some scrap metal,

1. What pads should I get that will take some heavy use?
2. What should I upgrade to when I start working on car(s)?
3. How many pads of each color do I need?
4. I heard that one color per polish and don't cross contaminate. True or False?

Polishes
Menzerna seems to be the most popular so I think I will start with that and once I master that eventually try some other brands like Gloss-it, Meguiars (as more $$ comes in).

Now even Menzerna has a vast line so What should my starting kit be to get a car swirl free and glossy? basically, what polishes are a must?

Bottom Line: Approximate what am I looking at to drop on a complete "kit" that will get my buffing metal, and in a few months- CARS?

Thanks,

Waseem

 

I think you need to figure out what your budget is first. That will determine what kind of polisher you get more than anything else. If you want to pm me with a budget, I'll see what I can do as far as a kit goes. Don't rule out a PC yet, as there some cars that are easier to work on with a PC.

 

Noope definitely not ruling out.

In terms of budget I'm not overly concerned with the price as long as I feel I am getting a great value out of it. To me i think it's great value if I can use it for a long period of time without having to spend addtional $$ on replacing, repairing parts. So if that means spending a little extra $$ on a quality and reliable polisher, or pads or any materials then I don't mind.

That being said I was hoping to have EVERYTHING I need around the $500 range, give or take.

 

I agree. Its always better to spend a bit more and buy quality. I'm sure we can do something to set you up. I'll put something together for your perusal. A few things to consider. Flex's do overheat. THey do tend to run warmer than a Makita normally, but heavy polishing and sticky paints will cause them to overheat. A built in safety will cause the machine to run at no more than 1000 rpm or so until it cools down. Having said that, I still prefer my Flex LW to my Makita. The Flex 3401 is a dual action polisher meaning it oscillates like a porter cable but is also force driven like a rotary to a maximum of 900 rpm I believe. This used to give it an advantage over a PC but with the new polishes and pads that are available, I don't think there is much of an advantage anymore. As far as pads go, it comes down to personal preference. The pads someone else dislikes may be your favorite. I tried some new pads recently that had gotten rave reviews but I found to be sub par compared to what I am using now. There is no right or wrong, only opinion. Whichever pad you choose, you should get at least two of each colour. Barring a catastrophe, two of each should get through any job. Cross contaminating your polishes can be a hassle but I don't think its as big a problem as people let on. Common sense comes into play here. Don't use a pad with a finishing polish after using that pad with a compound. The more abrasive polish will take precedence. You can however add a drop of a finishing polish to your pad when polishing or compounding for a little extra lubrication. When it comes to polishes, keep it simple. You won't need more than a compound (very aggressive), a polish ( medium aggressiveness for removing wash inflicted damage and light scratches) and a finishing polish ( for removing any marring and hologramming inflicted by compounding and and adding extra shine to the paint).