Quick question on Iron-X

Discussion in 'Pre Wash, Wash, Decon, Claying, Engine, Wheels, an' started by GloomyX, Oct 3, 2011.

  1. GloomyX

    GloomyX Birth of a Detailer

    I'll be using Iron-X for the first time this weekend. So what's the proper procedure (or recommended) to use this stuff... spray, dwell and agitate AFTER drying your car or WHILE the car is still wet after washing the car?

    Cheers
     
  2. Frankastic

    Frankastic Detail Photographer

    iron X reacts purple with iron particles. so I use it when the car is completely dried, because if you have hard water, chance there will be iron particles in the water. then you're just wasting product.

    I find this works for me

    • Wash
    • Dried
    • IronX
    • Use Clay to remove iron X
     
  3. bryansbestwax

    bryansbestwax DB Forum Supporter

    Never had an issue with this
    Wash
    Rinse
    Spray Iron X while still wet
    use mitt to agitate
    rinse
    Dry
     
  4. Phil.P

    Phil.P Any Rag Vehicle Washer

    Dont forget to use gloves and a mask!
     
  5. 911Fanatic

    911Fanatic DB Pro Supporter

    I use the same procedure as Bryan.
     
  6. GloomyX

    GloomyX Birth of a Detailer

    will Iron-X break down the clay if I were to clay with it?
     
  7. JoeyV

    JoeyV Welcome to Detailing

    ^^As do I. The smell gets to you the first couple of times you use it, afterwards, it's easy to get by it.
     
  8. chemgys99

    chemgys99 DB Forum Supporter

    i wouldnt clay with iron-x.i always make sure ironx is rinsed off completely before i clay.
     
  9. richguy66

    richguy66 DB Forum Supporter

    Would PW'ing Iron-X off be enough agitation or elbow grease is the only way?
     
  10. Danny

    Danny Nuba Guru

    I used Wolfs Chemicals Deironizer Decontamination Gel. I know its not IronX or Iron Cut but since all three are similar products...here is what I did.

    1. Wash
    2. Rinse
    3. Dry
    4. Sprayed on Deironizer to entire vehicle
    5. Let it sit for about 5 to 10 minutes
    6. Pressure Rinse
    7. Dry
     
  11. EbbeJ

    EbbeJ Jedi Nuba

    It's more effective if it's sprayed on a dry car.

    This is what I do:

    1. Wash
    2. Dry
    3. Remove Tar
    4. Apply Iron X and let stand for 5 minutes
    5. Agitate affected areas using a damp MF
    6. Rinse thoroughly
    7. Clay
    8. Wash again
    9. Dry

    Kind regards,

    Ebbe
     
  12. 911Fanatic

    911Fanatic DB Pro Supporter

    I've done this in the past and it seems to work just fine.
     
  13. GloomyX

    GloomyX Birth of a Detailer

    Update: So i ended up washing the car with AG Shampoo, Dawn, Zep Citrus to wash and strip the previous LSP (or there lack of). Rinse, Iron-X, dewell, watched the drive way turned purple, rinse, and dry. Worked out great!!
     
  14. 604_Snooze

    604_Snooze Obsessive Detailer

    anyone have iron x dry on your car before?
    I am thinking if I should order iron x or wolf decon.
     
  15. JSF721

    JSF721 Jedi Nuba

    I did this-
     
  16. wwevo8

    wwevo8 Birth of a Detailer

    i just got my iron cut in yesterday and used it on a clients car that has never been clayed and has 113000 miles and i had zero change in color it did nothing at all. i tried it again on my girlfriends car that had some fall out on thr rear bumper and i only got one spot of purple. am i doing something wrong? i washed, dried and applied iron cut and let it sit for about 3-4 min and then agitated and got zero results
     
  17. chemgys99

    chemgys99 DB Forum Supporter

    not every car has fallout or brake dust on it. and also depending on what color the car is(if its dark) you may not see it work.and i usually let it sit for about ten min out of the sun and then agitate it with a bug spounge.
     
  18. wwevo8

    wwevo8 Birth of a Detailer

    i would have figured that a car with 100k+ miles and never having clay bar done to it and only being washed once or twice a month would be the perfect candidate to try iron cut on lol i have to say my clay was pure orange after doing the whole hood! . how did you keep it on there for ten min? it would dry on the paint in about 4 min for me and thats with doing it my garage. thanks for the info :thumb:
     
  19. Chaseme

    Chaseme DB Forum Supporter

    That's happened to me too with the gel.
     
  20. mike aesthetica

    mike aesthetica Jedi Nuba

    I have said this a million times(I don't mean to sound like a bag here):

    You have to remove anything above surface bonded before you use this product. Anything that limits chemical to contamination contact WILL limit your effectiveness.


    Those that deal with nasty contamination will confirm that doing this stuff as a pre-wash or simply following and repeating whats seen on writeups from other people is wasting product simply not getting the most out of it. Thats why so many people are blowing through 500ml and 1000ml bottles like nothing.

    We don't even use the product anymore, the first year it was out we stocked it and eventually found it to be only partially effective, but this is regardless of the fact that you have to follow the correct steps.

    Wash
    Clay lightly to remove bonded and above surface contam
    IX or w/e fallout remover of choice - with liberal agitation.
    Rinse or neutralize fallout remover


    This isnt a miracle product, unfortunately some writeups have shown that its as simply as spray on, spray off as a pre-thought to a wash or postwash- it's not.
     

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