Question for polishing guru's

So as I'm working my polishes today, I noticed when I spun up to 1700rpm with SIP and yellow 3m pad it'd remove a lot of defects, and then when the polish flashed, i'd bump it down to 1500-1200-900. My question: it would remove the defects that wouldn't come out at 1700-1800rpm is that the diminishing abrasives working their magic?

:shrug:

Thanks!

Aaron

 

interesting. It can be worked up to 1800 rpm's , so maybe thats the sweet spot for it.

 

SO are you saying the defects came out at a lower speed or not all of them and as you slowed down they disappeared?

 

As I slowed RPMs the rest of the defects came out.

 

Hahaha, I will talk to you offline.

 

:shead: Ok!

 

Actually I'm curious about this too because I too just had the same experience with a vehicle I just finished polishing...I usually run my Metabo at around 1,500 to 1,800 but on this Mustang it seemed to prefer lower RPM's 700 to 1000 RPM...found it odd, first time I've seen this/first time this happened to me :shrug:

 

But what was weird is it was correcting the wash marring at 1800.. but the rids at 1200ish. :shrug:

 

:nod: actually it was the same thing for me...the odd thing is that to correct the vehicle it took a Meg's polishing pad...I haven't used a Meg's pad for a long time but it removed all the deep RIDS...well some sections required two passes but still low RPM's did the trick..very strange. Looks like I'll need to experiment on the next vehicle :gidiup:

 

Weird, I'd be interested to hear what you find out Aaron.

 

that may be due to the paint. if it's a 2006 or newer paint then it may be a reflow technology paint or you have very special abrasive polishes.
the new reflow paints seem to like softer pads (kompressor white and black instead of orange/purple) and lower speeds

if not that then it's gotta be due to the pad, is it a 3M wool or 3M foam pad?
Your glassing out the clear with those low rpm's and will definately get a better finish

 

I miss the good ole' days where you used one pad and one polish and that was it! All these new paints are giving me a headache! LOL

 

hopefully your not going to say its the menz swelling the paint.

last night i tried 106fa with a white pad on my vette with a my new rotary on a panel and took out all of the marring then jeweled with a black pad...it looked good, but im curious as to if i made the paint swell since I didnt spend nearly as long as nica in his detailing videos

 

I dont believe in the whole Menz swelling thing. Any polish, will however fill to an extent. Thats why its important to do your solvent wipe downs.

 

yeah, I gotta go to walmart and pick up some distilled water, spray bottles and rubbing alcohol...

 

It was a 1994 Jag. It was 3M UK Yellow pad.

 

Nope, no swelling.

 

The softness of the pad might be causing it to grab the paint, causing the paint to heat up fast.

 

Certain times I have noticed it myself both with rotary correction and ROB/DA correction on various surfaces too. First noticed it on the spread phase. If I put moderate pressure while spreading at low speed plus a pass at low once I got up to working speed the deep stuff came out easier than a section of spreading with no pressure.

It makes sense to me this way: (this may not be what really does happen, but its the only thing I could hypothesize) and this is not taking into account polishes with micro non-diminishing abrasives versus diminishing abrasives

At high speed in certain situations with the various scratch types, the deeper, essentially wider defects, the abrasives wouldn't have enough time to "catch" the edges and work it down(of course whilst working on the superficial surface as well). When you slow things down, they are able to spend more time in the deeper portions of the defect.

A stupid way I think about it is if the abrasive was a large irregular boulder(or some type of rolling object) and the scratch was a ditch or a crack in the road. If the boulder is rolling REALLY fast it would basically just skip over the ditch, right? Whereas if you slowed the boulder down a little bit eventually it would start to work on the edges of the ditch(and now consider it with pad pressure or the top surface of the paint in this case) with repetition.

At high speed with the fine marks, swirl marks, light marring and the like, the large amount of abrasives have their chance to work on the lighter marks like sandblasting a road with little irregular BBs or irregular ball bearing sized things, they would take MUCH longer to work on the deeper marks but the lighter little imperfections would be worked down much quicker.

That is how I sort of think about it. And I have experienced this for a while now as well. In fact I have adjusted my polishing style to it if there is some type of stubborn situation with good result.

Hopefully the explanation makes sense. You have to figure these abrasives we work with are in a combination(aside from the "work" the pad does) of being dragged across the paint(in the pad pores), being rolled across, or a combination of being rolled in the pore while being dragged.