Post Polish Wipe-Down Process

Anhydrous Isopropyl alcohol [Molecular formula C3H7OH: Proper Name: Isopropanolind] contains approx. 99% isopropyl alcohol, is a colourless liquid with a pleasant odour, and is highly flammable.

Wiping the finish with a Micro fibre cloth you may feel that the swirls have been removed, only to have them reappear when applying the final wax or sealant. After polishing a section, mist and wipe to fully remove residues and reveal the true paint finish.

a) Polymer sealants will not form a proper monocular bond with a paint surface if there are any oils present and it will affect durability.

b) Silicone will cause surface smearing and will affect both bonding and durability
Wipe-down after polishing or compounding allows you to inspect the surface to determine if the surface is defect free or if further work is required. When polishing or compounding to remove fine swirls or holograms, it's easy for residues to settle in the swirls, hiding the true paint finish. The effectiveness of this process is dependent upon a few factors; strength of product used, surface temp of paint, pressure applied and number of passes will all affect the outcome.

The wipe down process should be carried out both before to ensure a surface that is free of any debris and after to ensure that defects have been removed as opposed to masked by any lubrication oils or fillers left behind after the polishing process. The wipe-down process may need to be repeated to ensure a perfectly ‘clean’, debris free surface

Methodology - Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) solution with distilled water, if used undiluted it flash dries (evaporates) rapidly, which lessens surface inspection time and will also redeposit the oils you're trying to remove. Alcohol and water emulsify any oils, enabling them to be removed

Fill a fine misting spray bottle with a 8:1 ratio of Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) / distilled water solution spray the paint surface, leave it to dwell for 30-45 seconds, agitate before wiping the paint surface with a clean, dry 100% cotton towel, if it flashes too quickly (hot surface or environment) use further dilution

After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a wax or polymer protection be applied immediately.

Alternative products

b) Menzerna Top Inspection (PP95) – use to inspect your work, use this water-based cleaner that removes dust left by compounding and any lubricating oils so you can see the real results of your work. There are no silicones or fillers, just gentle cleaning agents to uncover the real condition of your vehicle’s paint.

c) Hi-Temp's Prep Wash - to prepare a paint surface for polishing, compounding, wax and / or polymer sealant application (especially if changing from a wax to a polymer product) this is a water-based paint cleaner designed to remove all traces of silicone, oil, and buffing residue from any exterior paint surface

d) DuPont PrepSol II™ - http://www.xurex.com/products.html) spray onto a 100% cotton or a micro fibre towel and clean the surface
e) Wurth Clean Solve is a fast acting cleaner and solvent that will not leave a film residue. It will quickly remove wax, tar, gum, grease, paint overspray, adhesive, oil, and silicone. It can be used on a variety of surfaces including: base coat, clear coat, aluminium, fibreglass, glass, fabrics and vinyl.

f) Rohm and Haas Acrysol - a high purity solvent for cleaning a variety of surfaces, dissolves excess adhesives, sealers, tar, undercoating, road oil, waxes and silicone polishes. No residues; cleans thoroughly without leaving an oily film to attract dust and dirt; can be applied to all types of cured paint or unpainted surfaces without streaking or etching.

Application methodology - saturate a soft clean 100% cotton micro fibre towel towel. Lightly rub area to be cleaned. Wipe off and repeat if necessary. Finally wipe dry with a clean micro fibre towel.


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great write up this will help alot of people who need answers an info. on this process:thumb:

 

Thanks :thumb:

 

Can Mineral Spirits be used for this purpose also?

 

I would advise agaist using it

Mineral Spirits

In the distillation process, chemicals such as aliphatic (paraffin) and alicyclic (cyclo-propane) hydrocarbons are combined with alkyl aromatic (benzene) hydrocarbons to produce the three most common types of mineral spirits. Also called Stoddard solvent, CAS# 8052-41-3, is a mild, low volatility petroleum distillate commonly used as paint thinner and solvent.

Outside of the United States and Canada, it is referred to as white spirit. In industry, mineral spirits is used for cleaning and degreasing machine tools and parts. Mineral spirits is a solvent used to thin oil-based paints, commercially, paint thinner is usually a name for mineral spirits. Therefore, although mineral spirits is a far safer alternative to many solvents in certain applications, it should, like any petroleum distillate, be stored and handled with proper care.

Other solvents used to thin paint include: Acetone, Mineral turpentine, True turpentine, Naphtha, Toluene, White spirit, Xylene, Dichloromethane (methylene chloride) and Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) none of these are considered to be ‘safe solvents’. Concerns about their adverse health effects have led to a search for alternatives in many of these

 

Mike Phillips has mentioned using Mineral Spirits. I tend to want to know more about Mike Phillips' opinion.

 

Then ask Mike Phillips!

I can only express my own opinion and knowledge of chemicals and their cause and affect

 

What is your specific concern about mineral spirits? Is it personal safety or do you think it damages paint or both.

Our lives are full of products (gasoline) with equally complex chemical names.

Wikipedia says:

Mineral Spirits, also called Stoddard solvent [CAS 8052-41-3][1], is a petroleum distillate commonly used as a paint thinner and mild solvent. Outside of the United States and Canada, it is referred to as white spirit. In industry, mineral spirits is used for cleaning and degreasing machine tools and parts. According to Wesco, a supplier of solvents and cleaning equipment, mineral spirits "are especially effective in removing oils, greases, carbon, and other material from metal." Mineral spirits may also be used in conjunction with cutting oil as a thread cutting and reaming lubricant.
Artists use mineral spirits as an alternative to turpentine, one that is both less flammable and less toxic. Because of interactions with pigments, artists require a higher grade of mineral spirits than many industrial users, including the complete absence of residual sulfur. Odorless Mineral Spirits are mineral spirits that have been further refined to remove the more toxic aromatic compounds, and are recommended for applications such as oil painting, where humans have close contact with the solvent.
In screen printing (also referred to as silk-screening), mineral spirits are often used to clean and unclog screens after printing with oil-based textile and plastisol inks.
A typical composition for mineral spirits is the following: aliphatic solvent hexane having a maximum aromatic hydrocarbon content of 0.1% by volume, a kauri-butanol value of 29, an initial boiling point of 149 °F (65 °C), a dry point of approximately 156 °F (69 °C), and a specific mass of 0.7 g/cc. In the European Community, the composition of mineral spirits comes from Article 11(2) of Directive 2002/96/EC (WEEE

 

[What is your specific concern about mineral spirits? Is it personal safety or do you think it damages paint or both. ]

Its a strong solvent paint thinner and not considered to be a ‘safe solvents’. There are many better alternatives out there.

I thought you wanted MPhillips opinon not Wikipedia's? And I know whatever information I post you will rile against it

 

So we wipe it down after we've applied the last step in polishing? lets say in my case after the mernz nano finish before the powerlock? Should I just give it a ONR or something similar? Thanks!

 

ONR would not be a good product because it leaves something on the surface. The idea is to REMOVE everything from the surface. IPA does that very well.

As far as the mineral spirits is concerned, what I'm understanding from reading that anyways, is that although mineral spirits will work, IPA does the job more safely, and can be stored more safely.

Confucious say, "Don't use cannonball to kill mosquito."

 

I find wiping off dry polish much easier than wet/damp polish after spraying IPA on it. Why is that?

 

So a 8:1 mix with IPA in a spray bottle, damp the MF, wipe down a panel a time or after the whole cars done? After wards just straight to LSP?

 

Actually I use IPA pretty strong. Like, 1:1 strong. never had any issues.

And correct. IPA, then straight to LSP or glaze if you are using it.

 

Something else that I have been using is Griot's Garrage Paint Prep spray. Spray it on and leave it for a few minutes and wipe off. I have removed sealants such as PowerLock, WG DGPS 3.0, Opsi-Seal and many wax's after being cured with Paint Prep without any issues.

Does not have a strong smell so easy on the nose if working in a garage. Just another product some could use.



Those using Hi-Temp Prep Wash how are you using it? Spraying it on the paint and wiping off with mf, rinsing off?

 

Always spray the micro fibre towel and NOT the paint surface with this type of product ( solvent, paint cleaners / prep, etc) as they may 'spot' clean

 

Good tip, glad I caught this before a big detail I'm planning next month on my own car

 

Besides all these solvents, you can also use a degreaser as well. Products like Optimum Power Clean will strip the surface of oil and won't leave any residue behind. Make sure to constantly refold your Micro Fiber or you could redeposit removed by-product to another surface.

 

double post

 

I am mostly giving the car a heavy alkalie wash with a pre soak from the foam gun. And during the polishing steps I am using IPA.