Picking the right buffer/polisher

Detailing noob question. Always relied on others to detail my cars and my boat. The guy I used for years retired (I think he was around when wax was discovered) and I have tried a couple of other shops, but I just cannot see continuing to pay for bad work.

I have picked up some supplies from DD (Phil rocks) and have the cars ready for winter (which seems to have come early to the Midwest). In the spring I will need to do some polishing and waxing. I have read literally hundreds of threads on orbitals (Flex, PC, UDM) and rotaries (Makita, Flex and others). All the posts talk about how well the Makita and Flex 3401 correct paint and how much faster they are than the rest. If I am just polishing (I am just polishing right?) and waxing what do I want? I am pretty sure I do not need all the cutting and compounding and scratch removing. I just need some suggestions and will certainly consider and respond to all suggestions.

My cars are not garage queens, my '04 allroad is my daily driver/work truck, but I like them to look nice. The boat gets used everyday during the summer and I can assure you that water is tough on everything.

Since pics are fun, here is one of us having fun.

 

My advice would be to get a Makita ( I can't comment on the Flex as I've never used one) some Menz SIP to use with your choice of green or white pads. I like the green as they are a little softer so are easier to handle but also cut a little better than the white.Keep the speed between 1000 and 1200 if you are new to polishing. I also find the SIP dries out too quickly for my liking at 1500. This combo will give you 80 -90% correction on a daily driver that is in reasonable condition. Finish off with Menz PO85RD on a black pad. This will get rid of any holograms that may have been left by the SIP,and will give an incredible shine. Not that enthusiastic? Menz Power Finish on a green pad at 1200-1400rpm and then straight to your LSP.

 

Is the green pad with SIP followed by the black pad with PO85RD OK for use on the fiberglass? Do I follow the same speed settings?

 

It will depend on the condition of the fiberglass but looking at your boat, it looks pretty nice so I would say so. You may have to go to an orange pad with the SIP if the green pad doesn't work. I would order a couple just in case. I would also get the white and orange 4" CCS pads from Proper Auto Care with the appropriate backing plate as well to work around the snaps the hold the tonneau in place. Those things will ruin a pad in no time. Make sure you order at least two of each of the pads. You can run the speeds up a bit on the fiberglass. Like I said , the SIP dries out alot faster at 1500rpm so you'll have to play around with the speed to find a setting you like. PO85rd can be run upwards of 1500 easily so same thing, play around until you find a speed you're comfortable with.

 

Fortunately no snaps on the boat. When it is not on the lift the cover cinches just below the black rub rail. For trailering or when I am away the cover has straps that attach to the lift or the trailer.

The fiberglass is in pretty good shape, but water spots are a pain even if I always wipe down after use. Spots on the windshield are almost impossible to keep up with without heavy scrubbing (and usually takes Scrubbin' Bubbles). The biggest challenge however is the teak.

I would have thought lower speeds on the fiberglass (ie. not as tough as a car finish) but I guess when you think about what happens to a boat versus a car, the finish had better be tough. The best thing about boats is that the engines are almost as pristine as the day they left the factory.

Thanks.