Paint Oxidization (rust spots)

So i have a car with Pearl white paint, and it seems that there are tiny rust spots in the paint, about the size of the period dot. What would you guys recommend for me to do, i have bought some clay bars, waxes, polishers, etc

Thanks

edit: 2007 Acura TSX

 

use a claybar. its just fallout or raildust, metal flakes that got embedded into the paint and rusted

 

so its better than using a polisher or colourx which claims to remove oxidization?

 

clay should do the trick by itself. you shouldnt have to use a product that removes oxidation since your paint isnt oxidized...or at least it shouldnt be because your car (and its paint) is fairly new

i guess you could try polishing anything that the claybar failed to remove, but im no polishing expert.

 

For a pristine paint film surface after the application of detailer’s clay use a paint cleaner (Zaino ZPC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One) to ensure the surface is clean and the sub-surface is free of any grease or other residue, ensuring a clean surface will also avoid pad becoming contaminated and / or clogged prior to polishing

Pay attention when using clay around badges or seams of adjoining body panels or tail lights or any other recessed areas as there may be grit in them that may become trapped on the clays surface and cause scratching.

The paint cleaner’s suggested above can sometimes be used instead of detailers clay if the ‘bag test’ doesn’t reveal contaminates but the surface looks ‘soiled’ use a chemical surface cleaner (especially on light colour paint)

Detailer’s clay is formulated to remove surface contaminates from the paints, it contains abrasives (i.e. silica sand, calcium carbonate, alumina, ceramics, quartz, or silicon carbide) in an applicator (the malleable clay bar) the clay lubricant is doing the same thing for the clay's abrasives as the oils in a polish, which is providing surface lubrication. Contrary to popular belief it does not pull the metallic particles from the paint surface.

The abrasives 'shear' the surface contaminates, the sheared particles are then encapsulated by the clay (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest imbedded in the paint, which acts as a conduit for moisture to the various paint layers, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage)

Clay being an abrasive product will remove a percentage of both natural and synthetic wax and most polymer sealants, therefore a paint surface protection should be applied after use.

Acid Neutralizing Wash – it is strongly recommend that an acid neutralizing wash followed by a corrosion inhibitor is used on an annual or semi-annual basis. Ford has a TSB that states all new vehicles must be treated with a neutralization system prior to delivery. You will find that a proper acid neutralizing wash opens the paint fissures (pores) and will release most of the embedded ferrous oxide deposits and the remainder comes off very easily by clay encapsulation. These systems will produce a better finish on the paint surface than is possible with detailer’s clay alone and is also the only solution that addresses acid rain, industrial pollutants, and tree sap etching as well as other polyurethane clear coat concerns

A three step neutralization and wash system comprises;
(a) Acid Neutralizer

(b) Alkaline Neutralizer (use in conjunction with detailer’s clay) is a blend of acids, which deep cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits and safely dissolves the ferrous metal particles bond with the paint so that they can be rinsed away

(c) a pH 7.0 Surface Conditioner, which safely removes both surface and subsurface contamination (i.e. rust) that collects on a painted finish which includes, industrial fallout (IFO), rail dust, acid rain, hard water spots, road tar, bird excrement, waxes/silicones, oxidation, adhesive residue, road grime and rust stains introduced via road salt, ferrous metal deposits. All necessary safety precautions should be taken whilst using this product

Products- ValuGard’s Neutralization / Decontamination Systems; A, B C Decontamination System – Finish Kare 1119 / 883 Paint Decontamination

Warning - Before using any chemicals or solvents, carefully read all of the cautions and medical information on the products container and / or MSDS. Always follow all of the manufacturer’s recommendations.

 

Clay is only a short term fix for rail dust, it only removes the top of the imbedded particle. You need to use a fallout remover to cure the rust spot problem.
I used this product a couple of weeks ago and it was a breeze to use and left the surface super slick

Mark V Products ::: Speciality Cleaners ::: Liquid Fallout Remover 16oz

 

Can i get that at any canadian shops?

 

Give them a call I guess 800-877-6282

 

Look for the Valu Gaurd Decon kit.

 

can you tell me where i can buy it.........googled the name but results was sparse

 

Valuguard - Automotive International > Home

Paint Decontamination and Acid Neutralization System -http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/f8/paint-decontamination-acid-neutralization-syst-7800.html

 

http://www.detailersdomain.com/valugardneutralizationsystemabkit.aspx

Step III is just a car wash product, it is the first 2 steps that neutralize.

 

Togwt brought up something very interesting. I don't see that many detailers performing the full decontamination procedure.

I've seen some done but not that many. Seeing as how it takes 3 steps, I understand why its not always done and the expense would be high.

Is it really recommended to be done annually/bi-annually?

Or claying and polishing is good enough?

This will give me an excuse to try something new

 

Togwt brought up something very interesting. I don't see that many detailers performing the full decontamination procedure.
I usually do

I've seen some done but not that many. Seeing as how it takes 3 steps, I understand why its not always done and the expense would be high.
Buy 'A and B' (if you can) C is just a carwash concentrate

Is it really recommended to be done annually/bi-annually?
Yes (especially on a light cpoloured paint)

Or claying and polishing is good enough?

Detailer’s clay is formulated to remove surface contaminates from the paints, it contains abrasives (i.e. silica sand, calcium carbonate, alumina, ceramics, quartz, or silicon carbide) in an applicator (the malleable clay bar) the clay lubricant is doing the same thing for the clay's abrasives as the oils in a polish, which is providing surface lubrication.

Contrary to popular belief it does not pull the metallic particles from the paint surface. The abrasives 'shear' the surface contaminates, the sheared particles are then encapsulated by the clay (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest embedded in the paint, which acts as a conduit for moisture to the various paint layers, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage) While clay products are useful for overspray, they cannot deep clean the surface and pores of the paint. This can only be accomplished through a thorough chemical cleaning.

This will give me an excuse to try something new
Glad to be of service

 

The product I used only required one step, I was told that there was no need to wash with shampoo afterward. The paint and glass felt super smooth when I was finished

 

so i was told that using klasse all in one would remove the contaminants as well, is that true?

Also what do you guys think about meguiars deep crystal shampoo, which also say it can eliminate contaminants as well?

 

Incorrect information. An AIO type product is a chemical paint cleaner, it will NOT netrelize rust

 

so when you say chemical cleaning, thats not shampooing right? but using a decon product?

 

No its not a shampoo, its a cleaner fluid. It is used to pre treat the paint before waxing. Its very good for removing light oxidation from paint. A decon wash is a whole different world from an all in one sealant with cleaners.

 

im confused with what to buy then..........i have asked some ppl and they said buy the all in one from klasse.......