Has anyone have experience or know of a good product to use on a surface that has rust ? This could be something from a little rust to severe. This would also take into consideration that the surface was prepped and ready to go.
Corrosion: Corrosion is caused when an area of metal has a positive charge and another has a negative charge. Water acts as an electrolyte, allowing current to flow between these areas. During this process the metal absorbs oxygen from the water and forms iron oxide (rust). Salt water conducts electricity better than fresh water so in areas that use salt on the roads, this process is greatly accelerated. Corrosion (rust) destroys metal by an electro-chemical reaction with water as the catalyst (water + ozone (an oxidizer) moisture + oxygen). Corrosion arresting products are available that penetrate corrosion cells, emulsify the moisture and separates it from the metal leaving an ultra-thin barrier to protect the metal from further damage. It is not enough to simply seal over existing corrosion by moisture displacement. While this technique will prevent further contact with the electrolyte, (moisture), it also traps existing moisture under the sealant, thus allowing that corrosion to continue. Corrosion arresting products, these products promote a rust conversion process. Most contain some phosphoric acid which reacts with iron oxide (rust) which is chemically converted to an inert material. A major study on rust proofing 2-3 years ago stated that an annually applied petroleum based product offered the best protection. Rubber coating such as Ziebart were not recommended as water or moisture can be entrapped between the rubber coating and the sheet metal making matters worse and also the best time to apply the product is in the summer months contrary to the cooler fall months, this way the product remains liquid and will penetrate folds and crevices. Cause Particles produced from the friction of brake pads rubbing against the rotor, rail wheel friction on tracks or the metal scoop of a snow plough. This metal on metal friction disperses tiny particles of statically charged black dust, which adheres to the wheel and other vehicle surfaces Sequestered brake dust, if left for any length of time will cause galvanic corrosion, which etches the paint surface allowing contaminants like acid rain, ozone, sulphuric acid, dioxide and nitric acids to penetrate the paint film surface. (See also Industrial Pollution) Effect - Once the clear coat is compromised UV radiation will further degrade the paint by causing oxidation. The metallic brake dust acts as a conduit for industrial contaminants to permeate the paint film surface, that over time can cause permanent etching which, take the contaminants harmful effects (corrosion) right to the base of the paint system and down to the vehicles sheet metal. Neutralizing - Washing the paint film surface with a slightly alkaline car wash concentrate and thoroughly rinsing will neutralize the contaminants and remove them from the paints surface Detailer's clay removes imbedded brake dust and other contaminants by encapsulation, thereby eliminating the primary cause Treatment- By applying a suitable cleaner and then a rust inhibitor (POR-15® Products) it will arrest corrosion on contact without leaving a sticky residue that would attract dirt, dust or grime. Corrosion attacks metal by an electro¬chemical (galvanic) reaction with water as the catalyst. It penetrates the corrosion cells, emulsifying the moisture and separating it from the metal, leaving an ultra-thin barrier to protect from further damage. Since most corrosion begins in crevices, (seams), it is important to have the capability to penetrate these crevices in order to form a protective barrier. Many heavier or more viscous products don't penetrate crevices, instead they form a `bridge', and while this may isolate the crevice from further contact with the electrolyte it does nothing to eliminate the presence of existing moisture or surface corrosion. Injection into a seam or crevice with an aerosol or spray eliminates this problem Por-15® Products Marine Clean After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a wax or polymer protection be applied immediately. Alternative products – After cleaning away the grease, oil and loose rust, use Eastwood's Three Step Rust Treatment a) Rust converter followed by (b) Rust encapsulate (c) Top coat with chassis Black for increased durability. An extract from “Automotive Detailing, Inside & Out”, a knowledge base for the perfectionist © TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2009, all rights reserved.
Is the rust on a frame or body of a vehicle? If its on the body there is no easy fix and no temp. way to get rid of it. If the rust is through then the only way to truly get rid of it is to cut the metal out and weld in patches. If its not through, then you need to sand blast the area FULLY, then grind it up and wipe it with mud though I personally like to cut the metal out and replace it unless its a part I can't replace or make. Then we can start on the epoxy primer and getting it back straight. So really in short it looks like this... 1. Bead/blast all metal areas clean of any contamination. 2. grind and fill w/e needs it. 3. 2 coats of good quality EPOXY primer. (not wal-mart brand) 4. block/board with 180 5. 3 coats of catalilized primer 6. block/sand to a finishing grit of 600 and paint. Don't use POR15 on the exterior either! I hate it even for frames. Its marketed as some sort of miracle product, people just say use POR15 b/c its marketed so good and ****. There is far better products out there. It very picky about what substrate it will adhere to and will flake off even when prep is correctly done.
I've never used it personally. I know of a few who have, and have had excellent results with it. Of course, ymmv.
The area in question is a 1991 Prelude, in the gas fill area surrounding it, it has the early signs of rust forming, surface type and starting to bubble, looking for the right approach and with all the different type paints out there, i thought i seek some more trusted feedback before proceeding.
Follow the steps I wrote and it will be nice. And chassis saver is a far better product then POR15, at least in my opinion. But you won't need any since your working on the body panel.
Your methods are great.... but for the hobbiest who doesn't have spray equipment and proper respiration equipment to handle a true epoxy primer than POR15 is great... yes it does have ISO's but when you are brushing it the effect is minimal...
POR-15 works well, I've also heard very good things about Masterseries products. It's all about how you prep the surface. If it isn't done according to the directions, you can have issues. I've used POR-15 on my rusty '72 Super Beetle, and it's been holding up well so far. Only time will tell how good of a product it really is though. Here is a good thread from a vintage VW forum that discusses many different rust prevention products, like POR-15 and Masterseries.
Went with the Masterseries product line after reading on the different forums etc. Sandblasted the area in question, and then used a dremel in the area where sandblasting couldn't get in to. I had access to a heated garage for a weekend and applied 3 coats in that time frame. Time will tell how this procedure and product performed.
I've used this stuff qute a bit: Loctite Consumer Retail Products | Product Detail It seems to work very well and is applied with a brush. When it dries I just paint over it.
Try polyurea spray to protect from rust.I have applied Ultimate linings product faced no problem at all.
POR-15:thumb: Used it extensively on my 53F100 Wire brushed, scraped, degreased and ready for POR-15 First coat of silver POR-15 POR-15 Chassis Coat Interior of cab all nasty and plenty of surface rust Prep work, degrease and acid etch POR-15 painted and protected Might as well dynaliner and dynamat it to keep the sound of the Big Block down in the interior POR-15 is some awesome stuff!, check out their 2 part epoxy filler for small hole repairs.. Dave
Pretty impressive process there. i know it's all about prep, different processes for different products. Heard a lot of the POR-15, looks nice by the way.
