I just finished applying Opti-Coat V2 to 2011 WRX that I corrected and now it has streak marks on it. I am guessing the product flashed on the panels to quickly and dried with streak marks. I applied it in my garage but I live in El Paso and the temperature was 103 today and it was pretty hot still in there during application, I had the door open to let the air in from in the house but it was still hot and dried the streak marks quickly. I got some out but there are still a few over the paintwork. I am very displeased with application process. Its been on there for about 2 hours is there anyway I can remove the steak marks but not the coating with a blue Uber and say Menzerna 85RD without removing the coating, I also have Autoglym Super Resin Polish?? The client is moving out of town tomorrow and needs the vehicle this was a prep for the trip so there is not time to re order and re apply. This need to be corrected and finished tonight. Any help would be much appreciated if I cant get a response I am going to remove the coating and apply Blackfire Wet Diamond and not charge the client for 2 hours of work.
I have read that OPT poly seal can be used to polish out the high spots/streaks. If you dont have that Im sure something with similar cut will work as well. *I havent tried this myself, just passing along the info.
I tried Menzerna 85RD with a blue uber with my PC on one panel the passenger front door and it removed them off,I sprayed water on it and on the lower sill and the beading is exactly the same. It looks like it didnt remove Opti-Coat V2.
I would do an IPA wipe down then wet the spot again to see if ou still have beading, some times the beading is caused by oils in the polish. I always wash after polishing and before applying any LSP, and I always get beading because of the oils in the polishes.
I did an IPA wipe down on the panels and then applied water and the beading was the same Didn't get a chance to Karl I had my customer coming over at 9:15 to see the vehicle, so I barley had time to make this thread. He was very understanding and waited about 2 hours for me to correct it. I just released the vehicle to him a few minutes ago. I talked to Dr.G from Optimum yesterday and he said I didnt have to wait the full 12 hours to take it out into the elements just to make sure not to wash it until 12 hours had past. But it seems like 85RD and a Blue Uber on my PCXP with light pressure did the job without removing the coating. I saying it had been curing for about 3 to 4 hours when I started to polish it. I started on the side I first applied it to and work my way around the vehicle to give the other panels some extra curing time before polishing them. I am really glad it didnt remove Opti-Coat. Now I am thinking twice about Opti-Coat V2 for my vehicles since I had this experience with it. I still might give it a go but I will now make sure not to use the applicator pad to level and streaks but rather a microfiber. Edit: Chris replied to me on AG so I am copying the post over here Chris I didn't use his vehicle as a guinea pig man he came to me requesting I remove etched in water spots from his paintwork and to apply Opti-Coat V2 to his 2011 WRX. I did check for streaks and I leveled them out with the foam applicator, as for lighting I was using my 1000 watt Craftsman halogen tripod. I didnt want to go over the panel with a microfiber because I though I was going to remove the coating so I used the foam applicator to smooth and even things out. I though this was selfleveling so I left the impossible to do with the applicator pad to Opti-Coat V2 since it stated self leveling. In my case there wasnt very much of that just flashing and streaking. I followed the application directions just like its states on Autogeek step #6 " 6. Use foam applicator or paint safe microfiber to even out any areas where you see streaks. This step is key, as any spots not leveled will have to be polished if allowed to cure. Panels will feel a bit tacky and will be self-leveling during cure time, so avoid any unnecessary touching, wiping, or contact to produce the best results." I really think Optimum should notify customers what the max temperature the garage can be when your applying it, especially for those who live in high climate areas. I even followed your application technique I watched the the video on it on DB in the Optimum section. I even talked to Dr.G yesterday because I had some questions on it about the cure time since it not listed anywhere except on certain forums. He stated I didnt have to wait the full 12 hours to take it out into the elements just to make sure not to wash it until 12 hours had past, and to at least wait a few hours to make sure the panel is dry the touch before taking it outside. link to conversation on this http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/36249-opti-coat-polyseal-2.html#post485131
I had no issues correcting some issues with Cquartz with PF and a uber blue........ I will assume that it could work well in this instance. Man Im sorry to hear of the issues... that sucks. I hope it works out Danny
Danny- I think what Chris was getting at in referring to the guinea pig was asking if you had applied it to your own car first. OC can be tricky to apply so it is best to test it on your own ride first. I know you have done Cquartz, but not sure about OC.
Hi Danny, What I meant by guinea pig was that you should have a few applications under your belt before you start offering it as a service. That way you can schedule enough time, and you will have the experience to deal with potential problems without having an emergency. Regarding self leveling: I'm sorry those instructions were unclear. In the intended sense, self leveling only means that you should avoid touching while drying so that you don't create a texture as would occur if you wiped drying paint. I speculate that those who have been dissatisfied with the slickness of the coating may have wiped it too much and created a surface texture. This is a completely separate meaning from allowing thick areas to "self level"...because they won't. What you have to watch for is when the solvent flashes off and the "rainbow smears" turn clear. When this happens, lightly smooth out any areas that don't flash until they are clear. It doesn't matter if you use the applicator or a microfiber, but only use enough pressure to make it clear. At this point ANY streak, smear, rainbow, etc. that is left will harden this way. I cannot say why they were missed, because your light seems ample...but they do not magically appear after curing. They are there after the solvent flash were just overlooked. I like to use LED or my Brinkman for this task, but more important is how many angles you should check the panels from. Almost nothing is visible straight on so you must look from above, below, side to side, etc. The reason there is no "max temp" listed is that the paint only needs to be cool to the touch and not just out of a day in the sun. All you have to do is work a little faster in higher temps to beat the solvent flash and get it clear. I'm not sure where you read that you had to wait 12 hours before you exposed it to the weather. If I have posted that somewhere it was a mistake. I have post on numerous forums and occasions that the coating can be driven and wet after an hour. The surface will be dry to touch in a matter of minutes after application. I'm really glad you were able to correct the problem quickly, and I hope it didn't leave a bad taste in your mouth about the coating. It really is something you need to use on a couple of cars to find how it works best for you. Chris
