My Daughter-in-law has a small dodge omni about ten years old that has never been polished or seen wax in its life. In some areas the clearcoat is gone and that fades to the edge where the CC is flaking then to solid CC over most of the remainder of the car. I've never tried one this bad and wonder if the work involved is worth it and what results I might expect. My guess is that a heavy Dawn wash will remove at least some of the flaking cc and I would go through a LOT of pads on the bare paint. Advice on how to approach this PLEASE. I have a rotary, THE MIGHTY FLEX and a PC-LOTS of polishes but no compounds. I just can't let my new GRANDSON ride around in this rag! Is there any hope or am I just:deadhorse:
It sounds like you'd have to give it a harsh bath, then clay it, then hit it with a good compound or at least SIP on an orange pad. My concern is the clear coat. If it's failing in some places, it probably means it's thinning in the rest. Going to rough on this might cause you to go straight through it!
Thanks! I hadn't thought about clay, I wonder how many pounds I'll need. Do you think it's worth it? Looks like lotsa clay and pads(which I have) Thank You!
After some thought, I think that ya got me on the right track! How about this, harsh wash with one of those bug remover blocks that soften in warm water(supossed to be cc safe) on the areas where the cc is flaking, maybe the whole vehicle. I like your idea of SIP and an orange pad where there is still cc. Might step down to a white pad with np where the cc is gone to see how it goes. Maybe an AIO topped with colinite 845. Gotta think this one through. Thanks for your guideance!!
Well even if your having clear coat failure you can still go a head and polish the vehicle and beleave me it will make a big difference here let me show you: Here is a truck I detailed last summer: As you can see the entire roof had some major clear coat failure. Here is a 50/50 to show the difference one pass made with Menzerna 3.02, Metabo at 1500 RPM and Meg's Polishing pad Close up As you can see, the clear coat was prity much gone and I was polishing the paint. Now the key is that if your polishing single stage paint or clear coat failure severe as this you don't really need to go aggresive. The reason you don't want to go aggresive is because if your having clear coat failure well you don't want to remove that much clear. You wont make the vehicle look 100% but you can improve it to at least 80%. Now when polishing the areas that have the clear coat failure just go light as it's easier to correct single stage paint compared to clear coat. So it went from this: To this: From this: To this: Oh and one last thing just treat the vehicle like you would any other vehicle, go through the steps. Wash, clay, polish and protect don't let the clear coat failure intimidate you. Well you get the point. Hope this helps eace:
I've used Hi-Tech Body Sponge™ in the past, it can be rinsed off once it becomes 'blocked up' and it pretty abrasive. Good luck To remove the oxidized paint (Optimum Compound or Optimum Polish) with a cutting foam pad (LC orange or yellow, PC speed #4, or a high speed rotary at 1100RPM In some instances a chemical cleaner (Zaino ZPC Fusion or Klasse All-In-One) and detailer’s clay or a suitable abrasive polish, dependant upon how severe the problem (Optimum Compound or Optimum Polish) with a cutting foam pad (LC orange or yellow, speed #4 or 1100RPM Rotary) may temporarily rectify the problem, if not the only viable treatment would be replacement (i.e. repainting)
I'd start with a nice wash first. After your wash you can get the true colour of the paint. Then go through a nice clay job and take your time doing this and do every square inch. After you clay it and rinse the car off, assess the paint and the problems areas. This is where a Test Spot is going to come in handy. Mark off a 12 x 12 area or just a little bigger and begin to try the product or products you think will work best. If it were me, I might try Colour-X first and topped with M21 or NXT. If that didn't work, I'd try M80 then M21. Until I found something that worked on one little area, I wouldn't do the entire car just yet. Knowing that you can transform one little area to your liking, you'll be able to tackle the whole car knowing you can do it all to your standards. Test Spot Area So I saw this on a decent once. And thought, before I start, I'm going to do a test spot. After the Test Spot Then I knew I could do the whole car using the product combo I selected for the test spot. It might take you an extra 45 minutes or so, but in the end its worth it. At least I think so. All the best.
