Need Pointers on Pearl White Car

Discussion in 'Compounds, Polishes, Paint Cleaners, and Glazes' started by RekeHavoc, Aug 6, 2012.

  1. RekeHavoc

    RekeHavoc Any Rag Vehicle Washer

    Im going to be detailing a 2012 Blizzard Pearl White Toyota Prius soon. Paint is in fairly good condition.

    My plans: go wash down with meguiras wash and wax. Dry it and begin to clay with Mothers quick detail and clay bar kit.
    After that is where i run into trouble, im fairly new to detailing and need some pointers overall. Do i use a paint sealant after i have clayed the entire car? or do i go straight for the waxing, ive been using meguiras spray wax lately but im sure i need to step it up and use something a bit more serious. Ive read a lot about Powerlock and am tempted to try it out but am wondering whether that needs waxing after? Im really lost and need someone to point out what i need to do in the right order and what products i should be using...

    Thanks guys :) Ill appreciate every single piece of advice or criticism :)
  2. chemgys99

    chemgys99 DB Forum Supporter

    You can always use one or the other. But if you want to use both then you must apply sealant first then wax. Also power lock is amazing. My favorite sealant.
  3. RekeHavoc

    RekeHavoc Any Rag Vehicle Washer

    Ok thanks!

    I heard powerlock already does an amazing job with shine and "wet look" so do i even need a wax after? and i know that powerlock alone will probably do a better job then the spray wax by meguiras lol
  4. Socal Brian

    Socal Brian DB Forum Supporter

    If you want you can put a wax on top of a sealant but I think you'll be quite pleased with Powerlock by itself. You can also put an additional layer (2 layers) of Powerlock.
  5. astro_ng

    astro_ng Jedi Nuba

    I wouldn't use your wash/wax as your soap if you plan on claying. A dedicate car wash is going to clean better than a wash/wax one.

    As for a good product if you are buying from over the counter, I'd get some Autoglym HD wax.

    If you're talking about megs spray wax the detail spray? The one you get in the box with their clay, I'd spritz that after you buff off your sealant/wax and it should leave a very nice wet look.

    Happy hunting.
  6. RekeHavoc

    RekeHavoc Any Rag Vehicle Washer

    Which soap should i use then?

    Ill take a look at Autoglym but will probably be buying Powerlock.

    I have both spray wax and quick detailer by megs, which should i used on top of the powerlock?
  7. Bmer89

    Bmer89 DB Forum Supporter

    I would only use the spray wax for after maintenance washes, just a little boost to the powerlock already applied. It's only gonna last a few days at best anyways. Powerlock is great stuff, and if you're going to top it with a carnuba wax for that extra pop and gloss, wait at least 12 hours after applying the powerlock.
  8. RekeHavoc

    RekeHavoc Any Rag Vehicle Washer

    Heard a lot of good stuff about carnuba wax, when topping it with powerlock sealant. I will most def. have to try that out.
  9. artemis53

    artemis53 Jedi Nuba

    Maybe I read this wrong, but you would ALWAYS apply a sealant [powerlock] BEFORE a wax.

    IMHO, most spray waxes are pretty worthless except maybe as a drying aid. On a pearl white car, I would recommend just Powerlock, or top it with some DuraGloss maybe, as they work very well on white.

    As for wash, I would agree the wash/wax would not be a good choice as it will just mess you up in the long run. If you will be using PowerLock, I would recommend using Dawn dish soap to strip off all previous wax/fillers/etc. My preferred is Dawn with addition of ONR for lubricity, also if you will be washing the car when it is cool and COMPLETELY shaded, you can use your clean wash water as lube for the clay.

    PS, if you will be using buckets to wash the car and you don't already have them, pick up some grit guards!

    Proper order:

    correct if you will be
    sealant then/or wax
    spray detail/wax only if you want to, and if needed to help remove wax after dried.

    Let us know if you have any other questions/concerns, and remember to post up pictures of before/after!
  10. RekeHavoc

    RekeHavoc Any Rag Vehicle Washer

    Hey man thanks a lot for the great advice. I guess ill need to completely get rid of wash and wax soaps from now on as all ive been hearing is negatives about them.

    I have a question, can i use wither Megs Spray Wax or Quick detailer for after every wash maintenance? just to add a little extra shine after a wash so i dont have to wax my car every week.

    Also, "clean wash water" you mean as the bucket water with suds? i can use that as lubricant or did you mean hose water?

    and yeh ive been using just one bucket with not grit guard, gonna have to go down to homedepot and pick up some cheap orange buckets, get 2 grit guards aswell :)

    So my plan is this, wash with dish soap, as you suggested to remove all the different waxes and sealants i had on before, clay it, then apply Powerlock, let it cure for 12 hours and then apply Autoglym HD. Sounds about right?
  11. artemis53

    artemis53 Jedi Nuba

    No need to get rid of them, they are not something I would recommend you keep buying, but are fine to use them up as a maintenance wash, between waxing.

    Yeah, you can certainly use them after, or between maintenance washes. Just understand a spray wax WILL NOT enhance or extend your protection by much, if anything at all. And, a quick detailer is just to enhance shine, clean light dust and help dry a car better.

    There is a method of "water flushing", to clay under a running water source, but I did mean you can use your CLEAN wash bucket with soap as clay lube, I prefer this as to not waste product, and it helps make sure the car is VERY clean, just MAKE SURE the water is CLEAN! you MUST do this with a 2 bucket method, as using it as a lube with any dirt at all will just drag it across your paint scratching it all to hell

    Detailing 101. The single cheapest easiest thing you can possibly do is just don't scratch the car in the first place. you will want to use 2 buckets, I usually only fill my WASH bucket with 2 gallons, but still in a 5-gallon, and my RINSE bucket is full of clean water, BOTH with a grit-guard. As for media, find what works for you. There are microfiber, wool/sheep fur, sponges, etc. I prefer using wool/sheep for initial wash on soiled cars, followed by a sponge; microfiber "noodle" mitt for ONR washes on lightly soiled cars. However, I would recommend picking up some of each and just see what you like! you can get cheap decent versions of each at home depot/auto-zone/etc.

    That sounds good, if your paint is in good condition and does not need correction.

    If you want to make your life easier and are willing to spend a little more money, there are GREAT products I would recommend you consider. Let us know if you would be interested in these products, such as Wolf's Decon Gel, Sonax Full Effect, Stoners Tarminator, etc.
  12. RekeHavoc

    RekeHavoc Any Rag Vehicle Washer

    Yeh im thinking of getting Sonax Full effect as i see many people using it and only hearing good things about it. As for Stoners Tarminator, i currently have some RV grade bug/tar/grime remover and that stuff works really well for me so ill probably finish that first before thinking about buying Tarminator.

    I have a question about the sealant and wax, i can only use it on the paint right? not headlights, glass, trim, etc.. Cuz i know some waxes you can use on those without a problem while others will leave a greasy residue behind.
  13. artemis53

    artemis53 Jedi Nuba

    Well, yes and no. That's about the best I can say without knowing exactly what wax/sealant and what material you are trying to apply it to.

    For example, I recently found that for certain hard plastics, my collinite 845 actually cleans and shines them VERY well, while on other materials it has a possibility to leave a white residue.

    It is best, if uncertain to keep it to paint. Although I have not heard of anything that is made for paint that can not be applied to clear plastics. In fact, you are SUPPOSED to wax/seal head/tail lights when you do the rest of your car, that is what will keep them from yellowing and hazing. They do have a UV protection "clear coat" on them like paint.

    Glass, I have been told different things, however I don't wax or seal it. Mostly I would say if you are on a budget, pick up rain-x, but if you want better results and can afford it go for Aquapel[which I am now finding in auto zones even!], Wolfs Glass Guard, etc.

    And most rubber trim, you should avoid putting any wax or sealant on it.

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