Does Power Finish provide longer play time than SIP? I'd like a product that won't dry as soon as SIP. I own (currently experimenting with) SIP, and although it has excellent correction potential, it seems to dry quicker:shead: than other polishes I've used. I'm definitely interested in Power Finish, especially if it will buff for a longer period than SIP.
I'd say that PowerFinish has the same working time as SIP. It is a white polish like SIP, not purple like 106FF & PO85RD. I personally think that SIP has a long working time.
Do you have 10FF or the newer version, 106 FA? I too have found my SIP drying well sooner than I would like. Though misting the panel with a QD seems to help with the issue. As far as PF, I find it to have a slightly longer working time than SIP. But try your SIP with some QD first.
I agree with TexasTB. A mist of QD or distilled water will give you a longer work time. I will sometimes slow the speed down a little which helps but may not be feasable if you have a lot of correction.
Thanks for the tips everyone. I usually don't polish above 1200 rpms, instead i try using slower armspeed, and conncentrate on breaking down the polish. The one thing I've noticed is that SIP tends to dust sooner than other polishes I've tried. SIP reminds me of Meg's 83 in that sense. I liked 83, but wish it acted more like M80.
IME, I haven't really found SIP to dry up all that fast. I mean it does give the appearance that it looks dry but if you look very closely under the halogens, you'll see that the polishing oils are always there. I guess I have better luck with SIP.
I wonder if ambient conditions could have something to do it with it as well. I know in the hot humid summers here in SC, all of my polishes seem to act different than say the spring or winter.
I found they were the same working time today on an X5 I was working on. Richard will probably tell you about it next time he sees you. He came by to help me find a working combo haha
Thanks. I haven't been able to see Richard in a while, I've been really tied up with some personal stuff lately. I'm hoping to head out there next week to see how he is doing.
Priming Foam Pads: If you were to apply polish to a body panel, and then place a pad on the surface and turn the machine on, it would be very difficult to control. This is due to most of the pad being "dry". To prime (or season) a pad, lightly mist it with distilled water, slightly raise the back of the machine so you are working with the top 1/3 of the pad. After polishing for a minute or two the pad will become more evenly saturated with product and actually become softer from heat build-up (seasoned). At this point, you can safely transition from a tilted up to a flat polishing position. Every time you put a fresh CCS pad on your machine you should prime and then season it for a minute or two before "flat" polishing. Polishes and compounds appear to work better when the foam pad is ‘primed’ a very slightly distilled water dampened foam, not too wet otherwise it can effect the cutting ability or dilute the product; do not use a quick detailer (QD) as most are formulated with either a wax or a polymer; however they are not easily adaptable to a spray formula. To be efficient they need to be emulsified to work as a spray, to facilitate this they need to use an emulsion of silicone oils and water. The wax will reduce the friction heat, negatively impacting the diminishing abrasives; silicon-based products can also have a negative effect on the surface / polish lubrication oils used causing surface smearing.
Black Baron works great at extending working time another aspect to remember - how clean is the paint Claying alone doesn't make your paint completely clean powder from abrasive polishes goes into the pores of the paint and some grime can get into the hills and valleys/craters of the paint Once this is all flushed out, abrasive polishing is much easier. the pad will not skip and hop and the paint won't prematurely dry the products oils up I use prima slick which is silicone free (painted over it to test) after I have broken down Prima Cut, Swirl or Finish It extends working time and as I am jewelling the finish at lower and lower speeds, some fine glazing from prima slick will occur (it has a light glaze finish to it (darkens reds and blacks really well) A quick detailer as a pad primer - definately not unless it's body shop safe
Thank you. We've been trying to tell people this for a while. Now that you have said it, maybe they will listen.