Is there really that much of a difference between the 2 versions of 105? I shouldnt have much problem using the original version with a DA, should I?
You shouldn't. I've read quite a few posts on various other forums where people say they prefer the older version over the new when using a DA. Apparently, the new DA approved M105 has a little less cut and slightly longer working time. YMMV. Let us know how it works out for you.
I could be wrong.. but I was also told dusting is less in v2? Either way, I have about 10oz left of v1, and a quart of v2 coming in tomorrow so I'll report back asap. FWIW, Angelo at CMA said he's seen more v1 being demanded than v2 :shrug:
Wouldn't it make sense to have more cut and less working time for a Dual Action since they cut less and take longer to break down abrasives?
Thats what I was thinking... Either way, I think ill try both, i just wont wait for the DA to come into Canada, Ill just start with v1.
The abrasives in M105 DO NOT BREAK DOWN. The abrasives are designed to keep cutting for as long as you keep polishing. So if you think about, the longer the work time, the less passes you would actually have to make with a D.A.:thumb:.
Aaron, does version 1 work properly with the KB method? Majestic's got a bunch of version 1 on the shelf. Been meaning to pick some up, assuming it would work with the KBM. I've got a vehicle that I want to try KBM on.
Awesome. I'll be picking some up this afternoon. I've got a basket case F250 to work on, and KBM seems like it might be just the thing...
In my use of M105 for the first time yesterday, on a DA with a 5-in LC CCS polishing pad, , it has a fairly short working before it dries out and then dusts/leaves fine scratches in the paint. It can dry out in 3 passes. M205 will take out anything M105 leaves but if you time it right, M105 can finish nicely. The secret seems to be timing it to stop prior to it disappearing. I do not think you need to use as slow of arm speed as with some polishes. You have to either work a smaller area or add a bit much polish. I have heard some spritzing with water to extend the work time so I may try that later. I did try a large flat LC pad and it seems to break down slower (dry out). Anyone else using M105 with smaller pads. In fact, I would recommend using the Meg's new pads with both since the work just like the label states (number of passes, etc). Otherwise, you need to refine the technique.
From what little I know of this product (M105) its formulated with a non-diminishing abrasives; which require pressure as oposed to friction, as is the case when using diminishing abrasives. Also bear in mind these products (M105 & 205) are very abrasive (12/10 yes 12 out of 10) and should be used for paint surface restoration / heavy correction
Try priming your pads first- Priming / Seasoning Pads Spread the polish / compound over the pad evenly and ensure it is absorbed into the foam, then spread that polish onto the pad by hand until it becomes 80% saturated. To apply to the paint surface; lightly raise the back of the machine so you are working with the top 1/3 of the pad. After polishing for a minute or two the pad will become more evenly saturated with product and actually become softer from heat build-up (seasoned). At this point, you can safely transition from a tilted up to a flat polishing position. Every time you put a fresh pad on your machine you should prime and then season it for a minute or two before "flat" polishing. Once the pad has been seasoned (pad is saturated with product) you can reduce the amount of polish / compound applied to the pad for subsequent passes; dependent upon what you're trying to accomplish. If you use too much polish or compound the oils will cause the surface to become over lubricated, which will negatively impact the abrasive abilities. Some advantages to pad priming: •Increased cutting ability •Better surface finish •Eliminates carrier system (solvent) flashing problems •Surface is more evenly polished and polisher is easier to control When you prime entire pad, by spreading the non-diminishing abrasives uniformly and by keeping the pad flat thus ensuring constant paint / polish contact it becomes similar to a piece of wet-sanding finishing paper, the oils in the polish provide the lubrication (like the water does in wet-sanding) Note – clean and / or replace pads as often as is necessary; a clean seasoned pad will enhance the abrasive abilities of the compound / polish and make the process not only more efficient but less time consuming.
105 is rated at 12, but 205 is rated at 4. Meguiar's Direct Also, even though 105 is rated to have a cut of 12, it is a very versatile product and the level of cut can be greatly adjusted with different pad/pressure combos. It can easily be used as a replacement for SIP (or other medium polishes) when used on a white pad with the right amount of work time and pressure. When used properly, it will not remove unneeded and "excessive" amounts of clear coat like a conventional compound would. One has to respect the cutting ability of 105 and use it accordingly, but it can be used for a lot more than heavy cutting, which it is superb at as well.
I tried 105 with the "Kevin Brown Method" today, using my Porter Cable for the first time in forever. Color me impressed.
Haha, glad you like the KBPCM. I have yet to try it out myself and I can't wait until school's over so I can take my time with it. :thumb:
I do not know if you use 105 with Meg's pads or other brands/sizes with a DA but I did prime the pads but I also saw Mike Phillips use it in person so I saw how he did it and actually primed a bit more than him. My comment was that there seems to be a correlation with pad size (the Meg's pad) and using smaller pads. It changes the work time and seems to require a change in technique. I had switched to a larger white pad (like 6-in) with M105 and saw an improvement but with small pads it has a short cycle. The other variable is just to reduce machine speed (from speed 5 to 4) and possibly pressure. I did a hood (broke it into 6 or 7 secitons) so I got to experience it. The conclusions is that it works either way - no marring or with marring -- since M205 will take care of any induced defects. I was using the brinkman.
I had been priming pads occassionally in some manner like this before I knew there was a name for it.
