Marr resistence?

Which one is the best at reducing or protecting from light swirl etc.
22ple

Wolfes Hardbody

Opti-coat v2

Does anyone have experience with all three or two of the three. I am on a tight budget and can only afford to buy one, so which should it be? I am leaning towards Opti-Coat but I am a bit disgruntled that my last tube leaked air and gelled up on me in the syringe.

 

Opticoat is most likely the hardest one. Bodywrap doesnt claim any scratch protection. But Wolf chemicals hardbody does.

Ive never used 22ple, but OC2 is pretty established as one of the best scratch resistant coatings.

 

I have been pretty happy with my Wolf's, I wrote a while back ago I knocked over an edger, it hit my fender, left a scratch and a slight dent. Scratched wiped right off with a MF towel and water..........

I have even clay bar'd over the coating to get off some Fall out, no marring induced.

Ive been correcting my Touareg on section at a time due to schedule, all I have left are the doors. So I ordered some OC2.0 to try out, so ill have Wolfs on the hood, front fenders, rear quarters, roof and tailgate. We shall see.

I honestly think you can't go wrong with either, other then the fact OC is supposed to be permanent.

 

Sorry to hear that the Opti-Coat leaked air - did you go back to Optimum and tell them?

They did have a batch of bad syringes in the past that all leaked from the big end. They replaced a couple of syringes for me because of this, with no problem.
It is really a great product! I am reminded of how great it is every time I wash my Jeep. It cleans up so much easier! And if you are lucky enough to live where it doesnt rain often, the vehicle will just stay cleaner so much longer.

Good luck with whatever product you decide to try. I only have Opti-Guard/Coat products here, and have had no issues ever.
Dan F

 

My testing of 22ple, OC Pro, and CQF showed no noticeable difference in marr resistance between them.

 

Does that mean there was no resistence with any of the products, little resistence, some resistence, lots of resistence, or they were completely mar resistent?

 

Unfortunately the test was only done to see if there was a difference between them...(no controlled section) I used the known test with a green Sctch-Brite pad and a weight on top if it. I lubricated the surface with soapy water to simulate washing a vehicle. There was no visual difference between the 3 sections and I also had two other non-detailers look at them and they had the same opinion.

So yes, they all scratched significantly.

The marr resistance is over marketed in my opinion. I do feel they help, but I strongly suggest not setting your clients up for disappointment by claiming a high marr resistance.

Just my $.02

 

These would be for my own personal use only. Without any protection from the occasional light swirl or mar I am just going to keep using MPL, as the only reason I am looking to use a coating is for that purpose.

My tube of OPT OC that went bad was months ago, approximately 8-9 months, I was so pissed I just threw it in the can and walked out of the garage. I should have sent it to optimum and complained but I chalked it up as a learning experience.

Since HB and 22PLE come in bottles are they susceptible to drying or jelling like OPT OC is?

 

I am tempted to buy HB, but someone in the know suggested OC. I will not use the whole tube of OC and would need to store it for a while until I get to the other vehicles, thus I am worried about it coagulating. Can you store HB for a few weeks to a month?

 

I had an OC2 container leak on me as well. I did a customers car, had about...idk....8 or 10 ml left. leaked everywhere. lol

I love wolfs hardbody. For me, or any detailer, i think a permanent coating isnt really needed since we are going to polish or try something new before the 2 years is up anyway. My Mach 1 has had hardbody on it since august. It was daily driven and washed weekly until almost december. Weekend driven since then, beading hasnt changed in months. Still comes clean super easy, stays clean, and the paint probably would pass the baggy test, no joke. The stuff just works man.

 

Ive had my HB since....july last year i think. Its fine. I put it in a spray bottle. I love HB man. Just do the prep work. I did 2 step correction, multiple stout IPA wipedowns, 1 coat. Then a week later, i washed my car, dried, IPAed again, and another coat. (Ipa, APC, Dawn, all dont really affect Hardbody IME).

Its really insanely durable. Im going to try it on my wheels next.

 

Opti-Coat has proven to be scratch resistant on many of the black cars we do maintenance on. Incredible product and an easy sale. :applause2:

 

The professional version (opti-gaurd) i heard is supposed to cure to be as hard as the harder clear coats in the industry. Id like to do some testing but dang OC is pricey lol.

 

It does help, but it's not some magical force field and it will still marr with improper washing. I have the pro version on my car and it's been marr free for almost a year now with proper washing. A few return clients have come back 18-24 months later with light to moderate marring with OC pro on. They have all been given instructions on proper washing and most have bought wash media from me as well.

I think the region you live in will make a difference too. Cars in my area are covered in salt & sand in the winter so between removing snow and people brushing up against them as they walk past in parking lots marrs them up pretty easily.

 

My vehicles are both black, an Audi and a Ford, both have a handful of swirls from waxing I believe. I have been doing two-bucket washing with Optimum Wash, I rinse the car first with water and soap mixture, I use a leaf blower to dry, and still I have swirls. Last fall I stripped 2 step polished the hood of my truck, I inspected with a halogen and the paint was perfect, I grabbed a brand new towel CG monster blue towel and IPA and pulled out the light again and had swirls all over the place from just that. No matter what I do I can not stop them, they are light, and only visible in direct sunlight, but still it is driving me crazy.

 

After you polished your truck you CAN marr the paint slightly with IPA. The odds may be better that after IPAing and stripping the paint of oils, that you are seeing defects that were left behind and werent corrected but were masked by the polishing oils until you IPAed. What pads/polishes did you use to correct?

Also, what year is the Ford truck? the newer ford paint is pretty hard, so is audi paint (generally speaking) so you shouldn't be working with super sensitive paint, swirls happen and sometimes its just unavoidable, but audi paint is known for its hardness which should make it easier to maintain.

What is your pre-wash routine? 2 bucket method helps but its not the only way to help avoid swirls. A pressure washer helps A LOT because you can get your car so much cleaner before touching it. A foam lance is great as well, i use both.

 

Thanks

 

The pressure washer and foam gun are going to help hugely in reducing swirls. I would have gotten a foam cannon attachment for your PW instead of the foam gun, but that will work too.

105/MF should be getting all the stuff out if you are using them correctly.

How do you dry the car?

 

Have we discussed how much pressure you are putting on the finishes each time you touch them?
Dan F

 

As little as it takes to move a folded towel across it.