M105 and UCCL

Josh had asked me to make a video about using M105. I am working on an Altima at the dealer with heavy bug damage that ate into the clear making little holes. I filled them with touch up and wet sanded flat. They had 2 days to harden before sanding. I am demonstrating a spot on the hood where I had wet sanded. The first video I use 105 with a PFW pad. I had washed out the pad and spun it dry. I had already applied a bit of 105 to the pad. Unfortunately, you can't see how much in the video. It was more a demonstration of the short working time anyway. The second video is Presta Ultra Cutting Creme Light with an orange pad..a go to favourite of mine. I didn't put a ton of effort into these but did them to give an idea. Any questions or criticisms, fire away!

 

nice videos rich. very cool.

 

Thanks for the videos ... I recently started to learn how to polish and I have M105 in my arsenal. This gives me a pretty good idea of the work time involved with a wool pad.

Thanks Richy

 

Hey, no problem. I wanted to make a point of just how quickly 105 can actually correct. You can work it a bit longer than I did, but I just did that to prove a point after all that discussion about it on another thread. It is a very powerful weapon to have in your arsenal, no question.

 

Richy;
Nice videos and UCCL one of my fav products and very underrated too u shut tried Buff Lite II
from Malco u will love it too

 

I bought a big 32 oz bottle of the UCCL so when I get low, I'll look at it for sure..thanks!

 

Looks great Richy!

 

Thanks Denzil.

 

Hi richy, thanks for sharing.. At what rpm are you working with the m105? Also what rotary are you using? It looks more powerfully than the makita. Actually, I work quite differently with pfw and m105.

 

Thanks Richy. I've got to say that my technique is way off. I work it slow and I think that's why I'm having so much of an issue with it drying out. Thanks for the videos! They will definitely help me out.

 

Dechia..I'm not saying my way is the right way or the only way; it's just what works for me. I am using a Dynabrade rotary and it is a very powerful beast. You can lean on that bad boy for all your worth and it just laughs at you. As long as what you are doing works, stick with it. I was just sharing for what it's worth. The KB method is probably the most famous but I don't use a DA for correction; in fact I rarely ever use it now. As far as rpm, it ranges from 1000 to 3000. I put it in about the middle or about 1500. You can see I just kinda gave the dial a spin. It does not need to be exact.

Josh..my pleasure. You asked; I was able to do it. Try spinning it faster and working it shorter and see how it does for you. Please let everyone know so we can all improve.

 

I'm definitely going to give it a try. I'm a little nervous now lol.

 

Richy, don't get me wrong, doesn't meant to be a bashing or what. In fact, it is really nice sharing and enriching to see what others did to make it work and thanks for that. The dynabrade rotary seems to hit top speed immediately rather than the slow start with the makita. Looks like a very good features imo..

 

Nice videos Richy!

 

Josh...a bit of heat is your friend. Too much is not. Keep it moving and you will love the results...fast and fantastic.

Didn't take it that way...I just didn't want to come across as the big know-it-all. My last rotary had a "soft start" feature which is what you are referring to. It had its good and bad points. I liked that if I forgot to lower the speed, I could take my finger off the trigger before splattering crap all over the place. The annoying part was the wait. Now that I have been without it, I would not want a machine with soft start again...but that is just my preference. I like to hit the ground running as it were.

Thanks kindly...kinda makes me wish I put more effort into it. I knew it was going to be too hard to hear being in the shop so I only spoke for a second in the first one. I figured I would preface the videos with whatever info I wanted to get across like speed, etc.

 

I think this is better as it'd just be too difficult with the machine noise. I was talking about these video's with Denzil last night and learned a thing or two :thumb:

 

dont mean to bash but this looks like one of American type commercials where they compare apples to oranges and want you to think they compare apple to apples (car commercials for that matter)

how would working 105 with orange or yellow pad effect performance. its kinda hard to compare if you change 2 variables, you change polish and you changed pad type if you know what i mean. what if you used same pad but 2 different polishes? noticed that 105 was easier to wipe off then other one

 

thanks richy ... very nice video ...

how about working on orange or yellow pads? any review?

 

I was, in no way whatsover, trying to compare the performance of these 2 very different compounds. On that particular car, that was the combo I was using. I followed up the 105/pfw and then UCCL/orange pad with 501 by hand and 601/105 combo. Rather than ONLY doing the video of the 105, I decided to do the UCCL as well since very few people on DB use it. Wasn't in any way trying to compare an apple and an orange. You're right about UCCL, it removes easier once it has dried. I did not want to sit there watching it dry on the video so I jsut removed it right away albeit with a bit more effort.

If you want to see how 105 works with an orange pad, you can see where I used it here. There are no set in stone combos that will always work..you need to be flexible with your thinking.

 

Thanks Richy, ordered 32 oz of 105