How many passes

Hey guys,
So far i have been trudging through old post, and found a great guide to rotary use listed a few post down. However i have a few questions for everyone,.. and want to see what everyone here personally does.

How many passes on a pad are you making to your area you are polishing? For isntance, I was using a LCC Green Foam pad, and Menzerna IP, and was trying to follow the Zeneith Method listed in that guide, however, i found that by pas 12-14 the polish was almsot compeltely clear and broken down...?? After compelting doing a door in IP and then switching to Menzerna 106FF(Grey LCC Pad), and doign the same listed method, I Still found some Halograming in the door. The only way i could almsot elimate the halograming was being using 85rd(Blue LCC PAD) on my PC 7424 after the 85rd on the rotary?

Im stilling trying to compeltely master my rotary, so any incite would help.

 

Buy rights you don't go buy passes you go buy the time the product needs to be worked. I'm a little confused here because I would handle a hologram with 85rd and my blue edge pad.

Guys, bgray is comming over from another forum. He really needs our help. He is learning faster than than this other forum can handle. If you could please help him. He is very eager to learn. bgray, just remember one thing you are dealing with professionals now. If you take one thing at a time. You will learn faster than you can ever imagine...:thumb:

 

Buddy you pretty much have it right. You really can't go by passes since everyone has a different style. Since I know you are using Menzerna, when you see the polish get down to a clear oily look then you know its finished. I thought you said you got the holograms out? Buddy, you can say he is from AG, I told him to come over here since this is of higher quality detailing.

 

O-kay, Thanks. I could always tell he was at a different level. He always wanted to know everything at once so he could just apply it and go. He will be way better off here. It will be more challanging for him here like it was for me. When you told me to come here...This is all your fault you know. Thanks...:worship2:

 

welcome bgray! i'm no pro, heck i'm just a begginer, i had just a couple of experience, but in my experience i didn't really go on how many passes i went through the area. like buddy said, depending on the product being use, you have to break down the product well on the first try then check the area you're working, then repeat if as necessary. constantly checking your work is always important. now before all you have to assess the situation you're in or what type clear/paint you're dealing with to know what product to use and how to eliminate the problem. i was reading your post and i did not find anything wrong with what you did. you went from a cutting polish (IP) to med. cut polish (106) and then finishing polish (85rd) which elimated the hologram. so, in my advise, check constanly check panel until you're satisfied and result is perfect (PTG also very useful for this as to know how much clear/paint you've taken out. hope this helps. stay in DB, a lot of people will help here.
and that's just me:shrug:

hey! where are the pros??:graduation:

 

Well like it has been said it really doesn't depend on how many passes, every polish is different so it's more of knowing when the polish is completely broken down. I've made some videos of polishing and they show when the polish is completely broken down you can check them out here:

Rotary videos - Detailing Bliss Forum

Well hope this helps eace:

 

Thanks for the warm welcomes...

I did remove the Halos Asphalt, but had to result to 85rd on a blue pad on my PC 7424 to remove them. With a myrotary, LCC blue, and 85rd, it still left swirls!? very odd...

AG is a decent site, but i find it very Pro AG, more based on buying product, then real solid advice. I am the type of person that only likes to do things right, and wants to know what is proper. I am not one to half ass things. I need to be able to do it like a pro(or as close as i can), not for profit, but for personal satisfaction.

I Have started using my rotary only in the last month really...however, im talkign at least an hour a day of practice, on different panesl ,cars, trucks etc. I really go knee deep when Im truely interested...

I have also downlaoded and watched all (4) videos that you ahve posted NICA, very good incite..great visual learning!

Just strikes me that a combo that is tested and true like what i am usuing is not doing the truck properly for me...jsut gotta keep chugging away i suppose...

 

Polishing, as eluded too does not depend upon the number of 'passes' - Diagnosis is the key; not guesswork; always use the least abrasive product / foam pad combination before ‘stepping-up’ to something more aggressive.

The most important first step in the process of paint surface detailing is diagnosing the paint surface; density of clear coat (hard or soft) or single stage paint, surface condition; severity of the scratches and the paint thickness available will dictate the choice and abrasiveness of polish / compound for correction or renovation level required or indeed possible.


There are a few articles on polishing that may help on DetailingWiki, along with the videos mantioned you should be good to go

 

I ahve read all the articles on Detailing Wiki, eveyr single one...lol

Jsut having troubles solving the halogram issue....

 

I've read quite a few stories of folks having issues using a rotary for the final finishing step, so you're definitely not alone...

IME, I went straight from hand polishing to rotary (a "risky" move for a noobie) so I can't speak for pc's, but getting that final step was by far the hardest part of the learning process.

It seems to me that you have the right basic idea and a little bit of practice will get you there eventually :support:

and if all else fails, I don't see anything wrong with sticking to the pc for the finishing step either :shrug:

 

What type of car and color paint, that could be another thing. Also what rotary are you using? I know the flex rotary doesn't have the capability of low rpms so it could be that you are finishing at to high of a speed.

I never had a problem on soft toyota paint finishing with 85rd and a finishing pad at 900 rpms on my makita.

Also no pressure is applied, just the weight of the machine

 

Holograms -

1. Are caused by not allowing a diminishing polish to fully break-down i.e. insufficient work time, the product should become somewhat transparent (i.e looks like thin cover of Vasaline)

2. Dry buffing

3. Using too much polish

4. Not working a product long enough

5.Using an overly aggressive pad

6. RPM speed too high

7. Pad angle (keep the foam pads flat)etc.

A finishing foam pad and polish should remove them (see Article 43 - Menzerna Polishing )

 

ahah okay, well maybe not every single one, but i spent a large amount of time reading, and printing off articles to read...they are awesome, and extremely informative.

I know theres a solution instead of switching back to my pc for final pass, i just have to find the right combo...the 85rd and nano are hard for me to distinguish when they break down, they seem so oily right from the get go...i see changes in apperance as i work them, but not drastic differennce like i do while ususing IP :shrug:

 

All you can do is practice till you get the results you want.

 

Thank for those kind words, if they help someone then the effort is all worthwhile

 

>>>>>Practice, practice and more practice; that's the 'secret' to rotary sucess >>>>>

 

nothing liek practicing on a 70,000$ truck....:thud:

 

Hey Guys!

Well after much patience, I finally got the truck Finished.

Turns out was that I simply was not breakign down the polish properly, and was creating all ym problems...

Thanks for all the great advice, good to know theres usefull advice by the truck load around here!

 

Glad to hear everything worked out bgray...but..um..wher are the pictures :whistle: