Here's the situation. 09 Nissan Murano, Black. Came to me with scratches where the owner took it off roading. In the process of correcting the paint, i've come to find that it's impossible not to swirl scratch. Even with hand rubbing and brand new microfibers. Here's what I've tried so far: 3M Perfect Polish Three stage on a DW849 with matching pads, any time I wipe, I just get scratches from the MF. 3M Cleaner Wax on PC RA 3M Hand Glaze by hand on an MF applicator, removed with a MF towel, still scratching Being as gentle as is possible, shit just keeps scratching. Have had the car all day. Starting to loose my mind while running out of time. Halp? Anyone?
The only remedy I've found for silly-soft finishes is to wipe polish/wax residue off with a WW MF liberally spritzed with M34 or a high lubricity QD. In my case anything with the slightest nap, even my plushest MFs, produced marring. An LSP that doesn't require buff-off is almost essential on those finishes. I went with Opti Seal. Those types of finishes are candidates for a coating as an LSP. I put Opti Coat on my soft-black - problem child. TL
I'd suggest misting your best MF with final touch. Also try diluting your IPA solution a little bit, dark Nissan/Infiniti have crazy soft paint.
There's only so much you can do mate. If it's still causing micro-marring with the softest of MFs, what do you think it will look like the SECOND someone washes and dries it?
Craaaap. Well here's what I've read so far. Some people say that the paint is self healing, and is waterborn. I don't buy it at all, and even worse, I read that if you throw boiling hot water on it, it will heal. Now.... I used to work in a body shop spraying PPG waterborn and Glasurit waterborn, as well as finishing it. I've probably sprayed and finished over 2000 cars since the time I was 16. I have never once had a car that I couldn't get clean. Ever. It's frustrating to call a customer and have to tell them "There's a problem, and having the car done today isn't going to happen". More so, when you call ten of your best friends who have been painting/detailing for who knows how long, and no one can figure it out. I see everyone on here talking about using a PC with god knows what pads and all these different polish combinations. Meanwhile, I've done 80+ hour paint resurfacing projects on tons of Ferrari's, Maserati's, Bentley, Roll's Royces, and I never used any of that sort of stuff. I've got a PC4724, a DW849D, and probably twenty or so 3M pads for use with the PerfectPolish line. I don't get why what's worked on $500k cars isn't working on a $30k econobox suv. What is the advantage to using all the different combinations of pads/polishes? The cut of the pad or the cut of the polish being enhanced by one or the other? Also, what would one recommend for MF towels in bulk? I go through probably 400 towels a week by my self, and I'm the only one detailing out of my shop.
Use the PC7424 to polish, and buff off the polish using a quick detailer and a quality microfiber towel. This is the kind of situation where, unfortunately, Costco microfibers show their true colors. Also try to use a finishing polish that will play nicely with sticky paint, such as Menzerna 106FA.
