Help Me Pick My New Polisher

well the time has come for me to upgrade polishers...i have the Flex 3401 and PC 7424 XP and while i mainly use the Flex 3401 i have run into a few vehicles that could have used a more powerful machine like the F150 i just did...if i wasnt doing this for money i wouldnt mind the extra time plus my cars never get as bad as what my customers cars look like...i have been looking at these 2 Flex rotaries

Amazon.com: Flex PE14-2-150 6-Inch Compact Variable Speed Car Polisher: Home Improvement

or

Amazon.com: Flex L3403VRG Light-weight Polishing Machine with Accelerator Trigger Switch: Home Improvement

which one would you go with if you were in my shoes?

 

dewalt rotary?

 

If it were me I would get the Flex PE14-2-150 because it starts at 600rpm soft start, and the other Flex L3403 VRG starts at 1100. The Flex PE rotary is going to be more expensive than the FlexL3403, but it is worth it. I know because I have one and a Makita 9227c.
There are not many instances where you would want to start at that higher rpm to do correction work with the compounds pads and paint of today.

The Flex PE14-2-150 is a nice light smaller footprint machine, does everything well, but does not have the top final speed of the Dewalt or the Makita 9227c which is a great speed to help dry out cleaned pads,but not much for anything else, unless you Detail a lot of Boats.

Good luck with your research!
Dan F

 

I've had my PE-14 for about 6 months now and I love the hell out of this thing. I'd say go for it, I've never used a tool that felt more well made.

I bought mine from chemical guys for 389 and they threw in 3 16oz bottles of their polishes, a 6" backing plate, and 3 x 6" of their hex logic pads. Didn't really like the 6" pads, but I've since started really liking the Paint Correction 2 they threw in.

 

Rupes LHR15E Bigfoot Random Orbital Polisher

The wide random orbital movement reduces the overall polishing time. The Soft Start guarantees an acceleration ramp to prevent accidental dispersion of compound. The anti-spinning feature prevents the high speed rotations avoiding scratches. New ergonomic front handle, this tool can be used even by unskilled operators

• A powerful 500 watt motor
• Speed control soft start
• An ergonomic front handle
• 1/2--inch orbit
• Polyurethane backing pad
• Soft Start - 1500 - 4000 OPM
• Weight: 4.75 lb (2.3kg)
• 1 year warranty

Soon availabl US

Rotary I would recommend the Flex PE

 

The Rupes orbital and rotary must be expensive.

 

thanks for the input....i have a feeling i will go with PE just because if i got the other one down the road i would regret not getting the top model....this would be my first with a rotary and i know the basics about avoiding edges, thin spots, and always keep it moving....any other tips for them?

 

My two cents, which is probably worth less than two cents since I'm strictly a DA guy and have only looked at these on static displays, is that if you're willing to spend the money for a Flex PE14 you might as well look at the Festool Shinex RAP150 too. Mad expensive but if it feels better the extra $35 - $50 might be worth it. Check out this thread http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/rotary-forum/28964-my-thoughts-flex-pe14-2-vs.htm The Metabo might be worth looking at too for much less money. I don't know what threading the Metabo uses but I'm fairly certain the Festool is metric.

 

I am picking up a pe14 on Monday. I got a great deal from a Gent on here. Keep your eyes peeled

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

Good review/comparison here:[TABLE="class: tborder noskimwords, width: 908, align: center"]
[TR]
[TD="class: alt1, bgcolor: #F5F5FF"]Rupes LHR 21E Big Foot VS Flex XC 3401 VRG[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

 

+1 on the PE14.... I freaking love using mine.

 

Congratulations on picking out an outstanding machine.

Compared to the Dewalt or the Makita 9227c, this Rotary is going to be shorter, thinner, and lighter, all good things if you use it a lot.

You might want to think about getting all the different backing plate sizes; I use the plates for 5", 4" and 3" pads the most. I hardly ever use the 6" plate for 6" pads anymore, unless I am doing something really big and straight like an Airplane. The bigger pads will be more to watch out for, require more product, and then be more to clean.

The smaller pads are easier to control, (especially with the Flex 3401VRG you already have), less expensive, use less product, and are easier to clean because of the smaller size/s.

Yes, the big secret of using a Rotary is to keep it moving, but the even Bigger Secret is to Not Touch anything with it that it might harm. Like black rubber moldings, some trim pieces, convertible tops, already damaged spots, etc., and lastly, keep the pad Flat as much as possible, with even pressure, to avoid making swirls in the paint. No bent edge buffing across large flat surfaces like you see Clowns with Rotaries doing on You Tube, etc.. Yes, we all agree with the laws of physics that say the outer edge of a spinning object is going to be spinning faster than the center of said spinning object, and that this means that the outer edge of the pad will correct faster, but you will introduce swirls this way, so plan on going back over with the pad Flat on the panels to help smooth out these out.

You will do ok around edges, if you just ease up on the pressure, and go lightly past the edge, taking care to go evenly over it, so the pad does not get stuck momentarily and rub in there. You can even ease up on the throttle speed when you come to edges if you dont have it locked down.

I never tape edges, unless one of the 2 like in between doors or fenders and doors, is extremely higher than the other ( like in bad bodywork assembly of panels), And, I have to correct bad scratches right close to that/those edge/s.

You can also buy some 1/8" or 1/4" masking tape to just get the edge covered if it for example is already burned through, or damaged really bad from door hitting objects and knocking off the paint.

A Rotary will always correct faster so keep that in mind, when you are using it. The amount of pressure you put on it will of course, speed up the correction process all things being equal, the paint being user-friendly, etc...

I like to keep the pad moist at the start, feel the pad doing its work, and then feel and hear the machine speeding up because the drag from the correction process has now about completed, so you are now making lighter, faster passes, to help finish down the spot.

What pads are you going to be using with your new Rotary ???

Dan F

 

right now i have my Adam's pads on the link below

http://www.adamspolishes.com/c-58-machine-polishing-pads-polish.aspx

so the bigger pads are 7" and the smaller ones are 4" with a ring on the back for centering the pad

this is what my order is going to look like

http://www.autogeek.net/flex-pe14-2-150-rotary-polisher.html
http://www.autogeek.net/flex-backing-plate.html

 

Ok, so you are going to have a backing plate for 7" pads and 4" pads and pads for each Im guessing. The bigger pads are going to be easier to learn with, but in every day custom work, they are just too big for me. I prefer the 5" pads the most, the 2 smaller sized ones for getting just that one long scratch, etc., out quickly without removing too much unecessary paint around it.

I personally dont like the waffle weave pads such as the ones you linked to, and only use Lake Country Flat pads and Lake Country Hydro-Shred-Babies Cyan, Tangerine and Crimson.
While they are working before they shred to useless, the Cyan and Tangerine do a great job on my Rotary.

They (Cyan the most), cut really well and finish down superbly. I like to use the Cyan for major correcting unless it needs something like Lake Country Purple Foamed Wool, and if needed, finish down with a lighter finishing compound on the Tangerine, and then apply the LSP with the Crimson on my Flex 3401VRG.

I think the pads you listed were made more for tools like the Flex 3401VRG or other random orbitals.

When you start looking at different backing plates and sizes, you will find 2 types - the harder urethane plate like sold by Lake Country and the more flexible foam backed plate sold by Chemical Guys, and others just rebranding the same plate. What they are after is the ultimate softer flexible plate made by 3M and sold here at Detailing Bliss for around $89 for a 5" model I believe.

The more flexible plates will have a certain amount of "flex" to them when they rotate, so they wont be able to correct as quickly as the more solid urethane models out there.

You might want to look up buying a couple of 5/8" extensions for the Rotary that position the plate and pad farther away from the Rotary itself which may allow it to get under things easier like under and around mirrors, etc.. Dont remember if Phil sells them here but if not, autodetailingsolutionsdot com in arizona has these extensions.

Do you already have a good pad cleaner ?
Dan F

 

as far as pad cleaner i have use this to clean them as i go if they start getting to much product and at the end

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-743-adams-pad-cleaning-conditioning-brush.aspx

i clean them with Adams APC after that

curious as to why you dont like the waffle weave style pads?

 

A good brush there for cleaning pads - there are many variations of this same design, and different colors.
I just don't need a pad with ( "dimples", etc.,) to hold product for me to use. Since I like to press the pad fully flat to use it, this seems like a waste of time and $ to have this design. I have tried them years ago when they first came out, and didn't really see any difference - except that they cost more.. But that is just me, your mileage may differ..
I have used a powder called Snappy Clean for years and it never fails to clean and rinse great. A lot of different things will clean or not clean pads well. Find one you like and stick with it - it's all good.
Dan F

 

You assume you are getting that polisher. You sent it to my address, remember? LOL I will be sure to post my review. :thumb:

 

i wasnt able to find any extenders that were in stock ATM but i did pull the trigger on the PE today with the 2 7/8" backing plate...i will start off with the pads i have to get a good grasp of the polisher and then get some 5.5" pads and 5" backing plate

 

Just make sure your money doesn't go to autogeek or any other associate of PBMG

 

I get the extenders from autodetailingsolutions.net over in Arizona.
They work great and are no different than anyone else's, except maybe the price..

Dan F