Help for a rotary noob

Discussion in 'Tools - Machine Polishers, Pressure Washers, Detai' started by zspectrum, Jul 22, 2008.

  1. zspectrum

    zspectrum Jedi Nuba

    I swear Im retarted. I can use a flex 3401 with absolutely no issues from a blue fine finishing pad to a lc purple foamed wool pad and everything inbetween. But with my flex 3403 rotary I cant do anything. I feel like the rotary is all over the place and I feel im doing more harm than good. Ive checked the sections that ive buffed and then do look good. But Ill be watching a video of say nica or just a random video on youtube of someone using a buffer and their polishs take a solid couple minutes to break down while mine take a minute if that. Im using the same menzerna polishs they are. Im spreading at half trigger on 1 on the flex and working in at speed 2 which is 1500rpms. Am i just retarted or is there something im doing wrong. Its actually taking work to keep the rotary under control. Can anyone point me to some how tos on rotary usage? Like speed to spread speed to break down speed to burnish, and what the polish should look like at these stages. Thank you very much.

    Heres what Ive used
    Flex 3403 rotary
    3m perfect it backing plate
    sip on an orange lc
    106ff on a white lc

    Car is my 2005 gto silver.
     
  2. Chris

    Chris Two Bucket System Washer

    Try stepping your pads down 1 level go from an Orange to a white on SIP.
     
  3. Chris@Optimum

    Chris@Optimum DB Certified Manufacturer

    A rotary does take more concentration and effort to control. Every one I know recommends getting a panel from a junkyard to practice on. You cannot be told how to do it, but must actually develop the feel for it. There are a few common goals like keep it moving, don't let too much heat build up, try to keep the pad flat with only a 5% angle for control, etc. There is plenty of info on this and other forums, but trial by fire is the key. As far as speed I like to spread at 600-1000, work at 1400-1800, and burnish at 1000rpm.
     
  4. zspectrum

    zspectrum Jedi Nuba

    Thanks for the help guys, Ill just practice more. i do have one question.
    What causes Hallograms?
     
  5. Charlies02GLS

    Charlies02GLS Jedi Nuba

    Many causes for holograms, but here's a short list which will probably be added on to by additional posts:

    Aggressive pad with light cutting polish (IE Orange LC and Ultrafina)
    Using too much polish/not breaking it down completely
    Rapid movements of the polisher
    Tipping the pad excessively

    Best thing to do is practice, experience is absolutely the best teacher. Get a couple scrap panels so you can experiment w/o worry too if possible.
     
  6. Nica

    Nica Banned

    Rotary can be tricky and a tad painful at first but once you get the hang of it you'll be fine.

    Check out this section to help you out, well hopefully you find the videos helpful:
    Rotary videos - Detailing Bliss Forum

    As to what causes holograms, well it's actually quite simple. Aggressive cutting pad with an aggressive polish and not completely braking down the polish. They are actually quite easy to get holograms.
     
  7. D&D Auto Detailing

    D&D Auto Detailing DB Forum Supporter

    The LC orange pad is a terrible pad for rotary use IMO. There are much better cutting pads out there, which are easier to use too. There are a bunch of factors that go into how fast/ slow a polish breaks down. There is no special amount time they should be worked in. There are also several different reasons why the buffer could throw you around. Could be inexperience, could be something going on with the paint. Are you able to use the buffer on another car you own?
     
  8. zspectrum

    zspectrum Jedi Nuba

    yes butbits a black car.
     
  9. Dannyk

    Dannyk Jedi Nuba

    Had exactly the same predicament, when i switched to a megs pad, then my problems stopped.
     
  10. zspectrum

    zspectrum Jedi Nuba

    That would suck if that was my solution I have like 30 pads for my flex 3403 from lc
     
  11. D&D Auto Detailing

    D&D Auto Detailing DB Forum Supporter

    So????
     
  12. zspectrum

    zspectrum Jedi Nuba

    yeah I didnt mean that as how it came out. It shouldve read yes, its a black car. yaaa I can see imperfections easier.
     
  13. D&D Auto Detailing

    D&D Auto Detailing DB Forum Supporter

    Black paint will also tell you a lot about what you're doing right/ wrong. Everyone should start off on black paint IMO.
     
  14. Ivan Rajic

    Ivan Rajic Any Rag Vehicle Washer

    While I don't agree with the orange being 'terrible' per say (I have found great use for it before with many various polishes) I completely agree that a PFW pad is easier to work with and does a better job at cutting, and usually finishes down better as well... I've actually completely put my yellow, orange and Meg's 7006 pads 'away' due to PFW performing ridiculously well.. follow it with a medium polish with 8006 and finishing with black or white LC and finish is perfect. I'll also reiterate the point that it might be something on the paint causing your bad experiences, in addition to you having no rotary experience... Menzerna especially likes CLEAN paint, so I would suggest claying the surface, then wiping down with 50/50 ipa solution before polishing... before anything, I suggest a junk panel as all the skipping, etc. (I went through all of that a couple times before, as many have) will eventually ruin your cars' paint...

    I too have found Meg's 8006 pad easier to work with than either orange LC (which I expected) and also white LC (which I never expected)... I'm not sure if the right move here is to switch pads, since you do have quality, 'tried and true', as they say, pads and can definitely do great work with them...

    You'll learn sooner or later 30 pads is nothing... you must have 50.. even if you have only 2 cars to take care of, all the experimenting in between makes 50 a necessity haha

    Get a junk panel, or better yet junk car, and have at it until you feel more comfortable with the rotary.. whether it's 5 or 50 hours, you'll get the hang of it
     
  15. zspectrum

    zspectrum Jedi Nuba

    O I have over 50 pads total, but 30 pads are brand new and were specifically bought for the new rotary. Also the gto is my junk car. Its about to go up for sale so im repainting a few parts so those parts of the car are what Im learning on. :)
     
  16. Ivan Rajic

    Ivan Rajic Any Rag Vehicle Washer

    Good idea... one last suggestion... when you get a bit more comfortable with the rotary, practice a lot on vertical panels as well... I've seen many people practice on hoods and roofs then look completely lost on the side of the car... so just practice both
     
  17. zspectrum

    zspectrum Jedi Nuba

    My plan was to get a grasp on rotary usage on the flat surfaces then move onto the vertical surfaces. I understand the concept and what to do with the rotary polish flash points speeds all the good stuff mainly from alot of practice with a rob. But just need to learn how to "steer" a rotary. any tips specific to the flex 3403. or is start with a slow speed and work up once you get a hang of the slower speed just good advice?
     
  18. Asphalt Rocket

    Asphalt Rocket Nuba Guru

    The orange pads can be a pain to deal with on the rotary. If an orange pad is needed I just use wool, plus wool is going to correct better, level the finish better and leave you with a better preped surface to do your medium to final polish on. This will inturn give you a more reflective and glossier finish when done. Wool is alot easier to use then the more aggressive foam pads. I would practice with the wool so you can get a feel of how to guide/steer the roatry then go to a finishing pad and work with that and this should make it easier to get a feel for the rotary.
     
  19. zspectrum

    zspectrum Jedi Nuba

    would a 6.5 inch purple foamed wool pad work? Ive heard I can use a dryer to practice on? Is that true?
     
  20. Charlies02GLS

    Charlies02GLS Jedi Nuba

    PFW pads work really well for cutting, compared to foam cutting I find them much easier to control. Never dry buff though...
     

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