hazing or sweating after 845?

well got tired of not having protection on my car and not sure when im gona get to doing it so i clayed the car and put 845 on hood and rest of the car. now i see some kinda haze on hood and i wiped it but it keeps coming back, what is it? is it just too hot and its doing it or what

 

When did you last drive your car? I've never used 845, but after I wax my hood I usually leave it open while the engine cools off.

 

i get this sometimes too. usually i only notice it on black cars. i find waiting a coule hours and leaving the car inside and then doing a wipedown with DI water or something like Gloss It Gloss Enhancing spray clears it up.

 

I have SV waxes sweat on me on both black cars...leave them in a sun, and do a couple wipe downs with an ice-cold QD once the vehicle cools down...I hate when waxes sweat, as it adds all that extra work...after the next wash the sweating should be gone...

 

thought so. yeah i dont have garage so did that in morning before sun got on the car. only seen it when black fire is removed too soon. ill try to wash it soon

 

Funny you should say that. I always apply 845 inside and last week I did it outside in the sun and it hazed over. I put the car inside, let it cool down and wiped it down with clay lube. Problem solved.

 

yeah, sometimes I get it when it gets hotter. By the time I get to wash it again or wipe it down, it goes away.

 

colli 845 hzes a lot when i apply it on my black car. It usually takes a day or so for the haze to show up. Each time i applied the wax, it was in the heat/direct sunlight.

I think the application in the heat combined with a cool night contributed to the haze. it just takes a ton of buffing and qd to remove the haze.

 

I generally do not use any QD after LSP, especially if I have streaking issues. This can sometimes add to the problem as most all QD's have glossing agents and lubricants/silicone in them. There is no point in trying to add a lubby liquid or something with glossing agents in it to a finish that is already streaking, you can end up just overloading the finish with product. I have done this before in trying to remove minor wax sweating with QD spray.

As others have said DI water works well but in more severe situations it still may not solve your streaking or sweating issues, and truth be told I wish I knew of a product or method that would dissipate all smearing and sweating.

Lately I have been using 2 MF's to buff off my LSP, one dry MF to remove the residual product and the other slightly damp with DI water to help remove smearing right after.

If you dont have sun to check for smearing LED's lights work well, stand far back and walk over the finish with LED's to pick up streaking or smearing.

 

thanks guys, not usually use 845 but just needed something quick and 915 was taking little longer and harder to take off then usual. gona do it in the shop next time

 

i used to have this issue on my 350Z using P21S, and even Concorso but not as bad

i think my problem was the heat from the engine heating up the aluminium bonnet, it didnt have any lining underneath the hood

id have to keep paint cleaning then re-applying the wax to my hood only all through summer every couple weeks. QDs or washing didnt remove the haze. I tried letting the wax cure overnight before driving it, layering a sealant underneath, nothing helped

 

David,
What does DI mean? Do your saying buff off the wax and just wipe with a damp DI(?) MF? Wont that leave a little bit of water on the surface, so use a third MF to wipe that little bit away? I'm probably being too technical :shrug:

 

Distilled

 

Yeah I was ghinking thatbut whats the I

 

My mistake DI denotes de-ionized water as something you would get from a CRspotless. I use distilled water.

And technically you dont want a freshly LSP'd surface coming in contact with much water inside of 12hours as most product companies recommend a full 12 hrs of curing after buff off before paint comes in contact with the elements. After application a slightly damp MF with distilled water it all you want, and a few wipes will leave no water on the paint.

I find the water on the MF helps grab at some residual product better than a dry MF. 2 towels is all thats needed.

 

It cannot be emphasized enough ‘Apply products very sparingly’ Ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used

After conducting a swipe-test and removing residue; park the newly waxed vehicle in the sun (or heated garage) and wait three to four hours, which will be dependent upon ambient temperature / humidity, this is to ensure solvents outgas (evaporation) and then lightly buff the paint again to perfect the shine

 

Clearkote Carnauba moose works great outside,

 

Could the same result be attained from walking over the finish at a distance with a heat gun on low setting to gas out the LSP, assuming parking the car in sunlight for several hours in not an option?

 

Suggest a dry MF towel or use a QD?

 

I always do a final wipedown with ICE COLD distilled water (just recently switched to reverse osmosis water, since I had an RO system installed in my house). I very rarely have a problem with streaking after the water wipedown. I use a dodo juice mist sprayer. It sprays a very fine mist, so as to not overdo it.